Mag 3d alks leaked on me!

bestcounsel

Enlightened
Joined
Jun 28, 2004
Messages
268
Location
Los Angeles, CA
I was checking the batts on my old trused Mag 3d and the batteries would not come out....i knew what it was and got the batts out only to find that they had leaked...

Im pissed....

What causes this...

They were engergizers...i have had great luck with engergizers....

This is the first time it has happened to me....

Is there anywhere i could just buy a body from....
 
Check out the company website. Many name brand battery companies will replace an item damaged by their batteries.
 
In my experience this is very common with Maglites. I've had several AA MiniMags that have had the batteries leak in them, but in most cases I could get the batteries out, clean up the light, and it was still serviceable. In the last year though, I've had two 3D Maglites leak so badly that the D batteries were welded solid inside the battery tube. I tried everything I could think of and ended up throwing both of them away. In all of the above cases, brand name batteries were used, either Energizer, Duracell, or Rayovac.

The latest 3D Mag I had that was completely ruined had sat in a drawer that I had forgotten about with four other flashlights, I hadn't used the lights in around two years, maybe longer. The other four flashlights were powered by D or C or AA batteries. Of the five flashights in the drawer, only the Mag had cells that leaked (and leaked badly). The main difference that I noticed? The other four lights all had plastic bodies. Only the Mag had an aluminum body, and only the Mag's batteries leaked.

From now on, I'll be checking all of my alkaline powered metal-bodied flashlights on a regular basis, especially my Maglites.

ZBattery.com does sell the 3D bodies, but at $9 plus shipping, it is about half the cost of a new complete 3D Maglite.
http://www.zbattery.com/s.nl/it.A/id.686/.f
 
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Mine just did the same thing. The battery next to the switch is still stuck & I can't get it out. I think the batteries were Rayovac, but I don't remember, threw the other two out. I've beat the thing on the concrete and tried a screw driver to pry it out. Still in there.
 
Mine just did the same thing. The battery next to the switch is still stuck & I can't get it out. I think the batteries were Rayovac, but I don't remember, threw the other two out. I've beat the thing on the concrete and tried a screw driver to pry it out. Still in there.

From the head end of the light see if you can remove the "c" clip that sits in front of the switch. If so remove it and see if you can wiggle the switch out the front. Then using a broom handle or piece of rebar see if you might be able to beat the cell through. I got lucky and was able to do this on a 3D Mag.

Failing that contact the battery manufacturer and make a claim. Duracell, Energizer and Rayovac all have replacement policies.
 
As mentioned above, it seems that Maglites, more than any other have the leaking alkaline problem and having suffered it myself, I'm convinced it has to do with being an aluminum light. Why does it matter, beats me, but I've had el cheapo Eveready lights with batteries sitting in them for years never leak, leave a Mag in a drawer for a couple years, even money you'll have to toss the light. Rather than just replace the body, I'd get a new one from one of the Big Box stores, Walmart, etc. and keep the old one with the leaking batteries to send to Energizer for replacement.
 
A piece of 3/4" Sch. 40 PVC pipe makes a good beater tool to try to force the batteries out of a MagD with minimal damage. First remove the rubber cover on the switch. Then use a 5/64" allen wrench to loosen up the set screw in the middle of the switch, it's way at the bottom of the hole. This will allow the whole switch assembly to be forced out the bottom of the light, along with any stuck batteries.

The 3/4" PVC is the perfect size. The ID is large enough to let it slip over the bulb post, and the protruding cam for the reflector, on the top of the switch. And the OD is small enough to make it past the snap in retaining ring inside the barrel. That ring is almost impossible to remove with the switch in place since there is a groove in the top of the switch holding it in the body groove.

Be aware that the 3/4" PVC will initially be hitting 4 small pieces of plastic between the top of the switch and the bulb post. As you try to force the switch, and batteries, out of the light, these will almost definitely be broken if any serious force is needed. But loss of these little braces won't affect the switch operation at all, so don't worry too much about breaking them. However, these pieces tend to break off fairly cleanly and then you have the flat end of the PVC hitting the flat end of the top of the switch. That will usually take quite a lot of force without damaging the switch operation. And depending how hard the batteries are stuck, it may take a lot of force. In a few rare cases, I've actually seen the metal walls of the body get bulged out by the force needed. But it's usually not too hard of a job to break the batteries loose once you can apply some direct force and not just try to "shake" the stuck battery loose.

Once you get it loose, you just need to clean everything up and install new batteries and you should be good to go.
 
Is there anything that will help dissolve the dried acid that is bonding the batteries to the tube? Probably isn't worth too much bother for an $18 3D Mag light (or $9 tube).

On one of my AA Minimags that leaked I was able to remove the batteries, but couldn't put new batteries in the light due to a buildup of dried acid residue on the inside of the battery tube. I ended up using a small cylinder hone on a cordless drill to work at it for awhile until it opened up enough to fit new batteries in the tube.

It seems like the D powered Mags leak worse for several reasons. First, the batteries last so long, the lights don't get opened up checked very often because the batteries aren't worn out and replaced on a regular basis. The D batteries would also have a larger quantity of acid to leak out because of their size (compared to a AA Minimag), and that larger quantity of acid can do a lot of damage.
 
this is very interetings...i thought i heard that those D mags leaked batts at times.....

Makes me not even want to buy another or fix it...

Maybe its an excuse to buy a mag charger...
 
I thought you were using the 3D for a Mag-LED? If so, I'd get another. If not, then yes, go get something else. If you are starting fresh and need something with runtime, it's hard to beat the versatility of a Wolf-Eyes setup, you could have both incandescent and led setups for not much more than a Magcharger.
 
I had 3 Maglites sitting in the same SUV with the same (respectively speaking) batteries for 10 years straight - with 'light' use:

1 Solitaire was by itself in the glove box = major leakage

2 (4C & 6D) were sitting inside a large plastic storage bin = zero problems


something that matters was controlled (temp/humidity/light?)

Edit: Then again, they were filled with Duracells?..
 
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Mate I TRULY sympathise with you, I lost a 3d maglite 2 weeks ago for the same thing, ENERGIZERS! That Maglite had some sentimental value to me too :(

Energizers have failed for me in both aa's and D cell alkalines. Apart from my 3d maglite i've lost a 2aa maglite and a Eotech. They did pay up for the eotech, but it was a real pain and took about 4 months. I would much rather have not had to go through the process to start with :(

It is just my experience that has turned me off energizer, in Australia the batteries are very expensive. I bought energizers because they were the most expensive, and I thought the best. At least I was covered by their warranty.

Where I can now i'll be buying Duracells when I have to buy alkalines. Other than that its Surefire lithium 123's, or lithium aa's where I can....
 
To give you a heads up too, you will be covered by Energizer's warranty. I believe Maglite also will look after that aspect for you.

If you ring maglite up, and send the maglite into their service department they will probably fix it / replace it for free. They will send the bill to Energizer if they think payment is required...

Electronguru: my 3d maglite leaked when it was in a 'bin' similar to yours in the boot of the car. I'm intrigued if you used the same set of alkaline batteries over 10 years? The expiry date on most Alkalines only rates them as lasting a few years tops? Thats what I love about my Surefire lithiums, the next date I need to worry about is around January 2014 :)

Again, I sympathise. I've retired my maglites from the car, now its a surefire g2 with lotc and sf123 lithiums and a inova 24/7 with a sf123.
 
Electronguru: my 3d maglite leaked when it was in a 'bin' similar to yours in the boot of the car. I'm intrigued if you used the same set of alkaline batteries over 10 years? The expiry date on most Alkalines only rates them as lasting a few years tops? Thats what I love about my Surefire lithiums, the next date I need to worry about is around January 2014 :)

Its this 35 gallon bin, but it wouldn't get as hot as a car trunk:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1BU6E/?tag=cpf0b6-20

Not only is it the very same set of batteries for 10 years, its the same 6D Mag and batteries I used to shoot these last week: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=176109

Opening it up, the Duracell's say "best before 2002"
5 years overdo and still going!


Edit: thinking it through, if I wanted a long life D (or C) cell light with minimal modifications for rare-use hostile environments, I would get some single AA to C/D adaptors (same voltage) and fill them with these:

http://www.energizer.com/products/lithium/default.aspx

1) good runtime
2) crazy shelf life
3) extreme temperature happiness
4) less weight
 
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What do you think is the best way to store a maglite with batteries in it ?
vertical: head up, head down, or horizontal ?

I'm thinking vertical head up orientates the batteries in their natural standing position. If nothing else, the tops shouldn't leak as much. Then again, I've been storing them horizontal for 20 years and haven't had a leak yet.

Speaking of which, which seal on these batteries fails the most ? or do they just eat through the can ?
 
Well first of all, I will point out that most of the Energizer batteries I have come into contact with have been made in France. Never a good thing where reliability is concerned.

However, it is THEIR FAULT that their batteries leaked in your flashlight. Energizer do have a product replacement warranty, and they are liable to buy you a new Maglight.
 
remove the head and switch, liberally spray silicone lubricant spray into the battery tube, wait a minute or two, then tap tap tap the batts out with the chunk of broomstick and a hammer. The silicone spray breaks the bond of the battery chemicals from the aluminum and the battery housing.

You can also submerge the maglit in boiling water and then tap out the batts.

been there....

nowadays all my Maglite are sprayed on the inside with silicone spray BEFORE i install batteries.
 
update:

I called maglight to find out about warranty and they stated that since i through the leaky batts away they could not help me.

Called energizer and they are cutting me a check with just my word about what happened and nothing being sent to them. Check is 26.00 dollars.

Interesting.....
 
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