Matching AA and 2AA advice please - Fenix, Quark or other?

[Brewer]

Hello flashaholics,

My name is Neil and I guess the fact that I'm finally posting here probably means I'm a flashaholic too. It's been a couple of years since my last flash and I can't resist any more...

I recently began looking for a good 2AA flashlight for general, indoor/outdoor/emergency/camping/dogwalking/underbedmonsterhunting use. I found plenty of positive reviews for the Fenix L2D (and then the LD20), and I like the idea of accessories such as the bike mount and 'diffuser wand'. I also got seduced by the idea of EDC the LD10, so I thought I might splash out, buy both versions, and enjoy the convenience of interchangeable parts and accessories and hopefully never again being without a decent flashlight.

Then I came here and started seeing the almost unanimous support for the Quarks, and I got confused and sad.

Obviously I'm too late for the 'warm' LED titanium Quarks, so I'm comparing the bog standard (non-tactical) AA and AA2 versions with the '2010' model (Q5 and clip) Fenix LD's.

So with that in mind is it still a clear win for Quarks, or do other brands stack up well enough against them (especially the Fenixes considering their cool accessories)? Have I missed a third contender that ticks all my boxes?

Features that appeal to me (none of them particularly critical) are:
- compact, sleek shape;
- pocket clip;
- a well-recessed switch (rather than a 'lock out' or battery removal procedure);
- simple, quick activation of at least high ('turbo') and low power modes;
- Simple momentary and latching options would be nice;
- hanging / candle mode (the Fenix wand looks great for this);
- straightforward UI that makes sense even after the instructions are lost;
- flashing mode suitable for road hazard or bike head/tail use;
- dim enough mode for discrete (eg, theatre / restaurant) reading use.

Looking forward to your thoughts, thanks! :twothumbs



EDIT: Since originally posting this I have also spent some time looking at the D10 and D20 from NiteCore. I like the look of them and the simple interface, but 4sevens doesn't have the standard D10 any more (the SP version doesn't really appeal - they just couldn't resist making it more complicated could they...)

Don't get me wrong, I'm not a technophobe, but I don't want to 'pre-program' a flashlight either. I don't have specific, repeated uses - I want to access its various modes through a simple (intuitive would be nice!) UI at the time of use, based on the task at hand. I also don't want 'hidden' features that I forget about for 2 years and then activate inadvertently and find myself unable to cancel without referring to a manual...

Help me out, I'm drowning here! :huh:

 

[NutSAK]

Hello flashaholics,


EDIT: Since originally posting this I have also spent some time looking at the D10 and D20 from NiteCore. I like the look of them and the simple interface, but 4sevens doesn't have the standard D10 any more (the SP version doesn't really appeal - they just couldn't resist making it more complicated could they...)

The standard UI D10 is available on 4Sevens as the "NiteCore SmartPD D10 R2 Edition".

 

[Saint_Dogbert]

If you get a Nitecore, get a D10. D20 is too big and heavy and not terribly bright in my opinion. Otherwise, you can't go wrong with a Fenix or a Quark, although I prefer the super-low modes of the Quarks and Nitecores. And I like clicky interfaces better than infinitely variable / piston, so I would go with the Quark, if I had to choose one.

 

[doktor_x]

My current EDC solution is the new LD10 clipped inside a pants pocket and a Nitecore D20 R2 clipped to the webbing on the side of my EDC bag. Occasionally, the LD10 rides in the belt holster and the D20 gets clipped into the pants pocket. I'm really digging the UI on the D20, but they're both working very well for everything I deal with on a daily basis.

 

[NutSAK]

If you get a Nitecore, get a D10. D20 is too big and heavy and not terribly bright in my opinion.

I agree with you, but the D20 is more durable than the D10. The D10 really needs a steel bezel like the EX10 and D20. I've dropped mine a few times on concrete and it has some nasty dents/bends in the aluminum bezel. If the dents were just a bit worse, I'd be looking at o-ring sealing problems or a broken lens.

 

[Egsise]

Search D10/D20 switch problems vs. clickies.
For good candle mode, Quark is more stable than Fenix.
Fenix diffuser tip fits to Quark, it's tight so you may want to sand it a bit.
Fenix bike mount rattles, try lockblock.
2xAA for EDC..could be kinda big?

 

[deranged_coder]

:welcome:

Fenix has the advantage of being time tested and currently does have more accessories available, etc.

Quark is a relative newcomer but 4Sevens is coming out with lots of accessories, is very response to customer feedback and so far, their lights are holding up quite well i.e. I have not heard much of any negative feedback against them.

Honestly, I do not think you can go wrong with either brand.

I will leave you with the CPF Mantra: "Buy 'em both!"

 

[Egsise]

+1 To buy them both

Another mantra: Two is one, one is none.

Fenix build quality is better than 4Sevens, but they both are still used as EDC, one for me and one for my wife.

 

[Brewer]

Thanks everyone for the solid input. I was half-expecting a newbie pantsing, you flashnerds are alright :laughing:

(and thanks NutSAK for pointing out my lame web shopping skills...)

Regarding EDC, I'd be carrying the AA in a small daily bag. The 2AA would live in a pseudo-bugout 'weekender', again not huge but just with those additional things I like to have if I know I'm going to be away from home overnight or longer. The idea is that this way I should always have both lights nearby when I really need one (eg camping, long road trips etc), and by having common parts and batteries the chances of me NOT being able to put together a good working light when required are pretty slim.

I guess this is actually quite an important criterion for me - if the parts of the AA and 2AA versions aren't swappable, they're probably off the list.

Egsise, what do you mean about D10/D20 switch problems? I didn't find anything scary, and there was a suggestion (probably in NiteCore's own words) that the piston was actually more reliable than a clicky. Is that what you meant or is there something else I should know about?

I really like the look of the NiteCore UI, I reckon you'd figure out all you need to know just by playing with it, and no danger of suddenly changing a setting and mysteriously altering the behaviour of the whole thing. I like the idea of an 'infinitely variable' system and especially one that seems so simple to access and adjust.

The more I think about it, the more I think I'm talking myself into the NiteCores (might even have to get a 3rd one for SWMBO). It certainly seems to be between the Nitecore and the Quark with the NiteCore probably winning on UI (things like momentary action, quiet pushbutton and easy vario currently outweighing the extra brightness, dimness and beacon modes). The answers to these - hopefully last - questions should help me seal the deal though...

1. Are the D10-R2 & D20-R2 heads intechangeble in an emergency?
2. Can a Fenix diffuser wand be made to fit the NiteCores, or is something similar available?
3. The D10 appears to have no clip. Will a D20 clip fit to it, and how do I get one without buying another D20?!
4. If 0.2lm on the Quarks is so useful, does that mean 3.0lm on NC is too bright in some sitations?
4a. Examples? Theatre program reading?
5. How does the beam quality of the 2 NCs stack up to the 2 Quarks?


Thanks again guys.

:candle:

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

If you're leaning towards the Quark, you should know that the regular version doesn't have momentary on, but it does have all the other features you're looking for. The Quark tactical line does have momentary on, but you only have immediate access to two pre-programmed outputs. However, you could buy a tactical tail-cap and switch and use that on a regular Quark but you lose the ability to tail-stand, and using the momentary mode consecutively within 3-seconds will cause the light to cycle up to the next level (after three seconds, the light defaults to moon mode or turbo, depending on whether the bezel is loose or tightened).

 

[Egsise]

Egsise, what do you mean about D10/D20 switch problems? I didn't find anything scary, and there was a suggestion (probably in NiteCore's own words) that the piston was actually more reliable than a clicky. Is that what you meant or is there something else I should know about?

I just meant that there are more threads about D10/D20 switch problems, than threads about Fenix switch problems.

But if I would have to choose between Nitecore D10/D20 and 4Sevens Quark, I would propably take the Nitecore.
I have seen the Quark build quality.

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

But if I would have to choose between Nitecore D10/D20 and 4Sevens Quark, I would propably take the Nitecore.
I have seen the Quark build quality.

What's wrong with the Quark build quality? I have a D20 and a Quark AA, and I think in terms of fit, finish, and durability they're pretty much comparable.

 

[NonSenCe]

i would advice you to take 2AA quark tactical (program it for 2 modes)
and then 1AA quark regular. that way you can mismatch the reg and tac u.i heads and tailbuttons. /tactical button offers you a momentary output even on the regular head model/

nitecores do not offer such an lego-ability as quarks do. (even fenix ld10 and ld20 allow you to swap parts and bodies)

nitecore switch. it can be little vague in response. mine is. i cant get it to work "perfectly". sometimes it just do not register the press so i need to do it again. (when it works,it is awesome light.. well worth the high praise given here in cpf past year or so)

d10 is one of my everydaycarry lights.

and so is quark tactical. heh. personal take: pick either one, dont think you will be dissapointed.

if you want to option of mismatching parts from one to other if it fails you need to look at 47s or fenix (or as new option iTP) they are the few that allow you to pick and choose body, head, tailcap of your preferance.

the d10 do not offer the blinker sos strobe modes.. its one reason why i carry it (and my other favorite lights) i just find the blinkers distraction in everyday life and use..

 

[NutSAK]

The problems most people have with the Nitecore switches is due to the thick lube Nitecore puts on the piston orings. For reliable switching, this lube should be removed and replaced with something lighter. I use Nano-Oil, and it works perfectly.

I've not had a single issue with a Nitecore switch in the last year or so of EDCing my D10 and D20 (after changing the lube). That is much more than I can say of the MANY Fenix switches I've replaced for myself and other flashlight users. Most of those failures were due to dropping the light on the weak plastic switch. In my experience, the Nitecore Piston Drive will take a much greater beating than Fenix switches.

I'm also a big fan of the Nitecore UI and after using it would find it difficult and inconvenient to switch back to a UI similar to Quark or Fenix.

 

[f22shift]

i dont remember the ti quark having warm option. i think it's only the xpg

if you mean the neutral quarks.
you can check some other dealers like
http://goinggear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=14_43
and see if they have any stock.
dont forget coupon code.

 

[Gunner12]

The Fenix lights have interchangeable bodies, so do the Quark lights, so if you buy a LD10 for example, you can get a LD20 body and use the LD10's head on the body and get a LD20 (the LD20, LD10, and PD20 all have the same head).

I'd say go for the Quark for your uses.

:welcome:

 

[Egsise]

What's wrong with the Quark build quality? I have a D20 and a Quark AA, and I think in terms of fit, finish, and durability they're pretty much comparable.

Oh, I did'nt know Nitecore build quality is that poor.
I have Fenix LD10 and Quark AA neutral white.
Threads, even though LD10 cross threads sometimes, the head fits very nicely to body, there's no flickering etc. caused by bad contact.
Quark threads are square and there's no cross threading, but the head does not fit the body very well.
Sometimes my Quark flickers because of that.
Quark body is reversible, well it should be, but....
If I turn the body so that I could clip it in my pocket, the threads cut the o-ring, luckily there were spare o-rings in the package.
The problem is not solved by using smaller o-rings, because the threads are the problem.
Dont get me wrong I really like my Quark and EDC it, but if it was the normal R2 version I would sell it.

I've not had a single issue with a Nitecore switch in the last year or so of EDCing my D10 and D20 (after changing the lube). That is much more than I can say of the MANY Fenix switches I've replaced for myself and other flashlight users. Most of those failures were due to dropping the light on the weak plastic switch. In my experience, the Nitecore Piston Drive will take a much greater beating than Fenix switches.

I have not been able to brake LD10 switch, it is quite well protected and dropping to flat surface can't brake it.
With the anti-roll design it doesn't get dropped so often...
I believe it is possible to brake it by dropping it switch forward on to a stone.

Now the bad things about Fenix LD10.
Q5 tint is ugly ugly blue compared to Quark Q3 5A neutral white.
9 lumen low is way to much, 1 lumen would much useable.
Operating voltage 0.9-3V, no 14500 Li-ion support.
Candle mode is wobbly, I replaced the LD10 tailcap with L1D tailcap, much better.

I am still trying to find the perfect EDC flashlight.

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

Quark threads are square and there's no cross threading, but the head does not fit the body very well.
Sometimes my Quark flickers because of that.
Quark body is reversible, well it should be, but....
If I turn the body so that I could clip it in my pocket, the threads cut the o-ring, luckily there were spare o-rings in the package.

A problem specific to your light perhaps? I haven't experienced any of these problems with my Quark AA. Well, I can get mine to flicker if I press down firmly on the head while the bezel is loosened, but that's something I have to do deliberately and isn't something that happens during normal use. And looking at the tube, I can't figure how you managed to cut the O-ring simply by switching the tail cap and head unless the O-ring somehow came loose when you unscrewed the parts and it ended up in the threads.

 

[NonSenCe]

offtopic

i think you have checked this too.. but i need to mention it anyways

egsise.. on couple occasion my quark flickered too and i did get worried why so. after little checking the light i realised that the ring that screws on the pocket clip was somehow gotten little loose. it cause just a bit of lost contact. after tightening the ring, flickering was gone. and has stayed that way too.

 

[Egsise]

A problem specific to your light perhaps? I haven't experienced any of these problems with my Quark AA. Well, I can get mine to flicker if I press down firmly on the head while the bezel is loosened, but that's something I have to do deliberately and isn't something that happens during normal use. And looking at the tube, I can't figure how you managed to cut the O-ring simply by switching the tail cap and head unless the O-ring somehow came loose when you unscrewed the parts and it ended up in the threads.

Well I have seen 6 LD10's and they all were high quality like my LD10.
I have 1 Quark, and it has flickering issue because the threads are not tight.
The flickering is on-off flicker when the bezel is loose, not bezel loose-turbo flicker.
The threads are cut so that the o-rings get damaged very easy, there is no room for it to seat nicely.
So to me 4Sevens build quality, or quality control is not in par with Fenix.

offtopic

i think you have checked this too.. but i need to mention it anyways

egsise.. on couple occasion my quark flickered too and i did get worried why so. after little checking the light i realised that the ring that screws on the pocket clip was somehow gotten little loose. it cause just a bit of lost contact. after tightening the ring, flickering was gone. and has stayed that way too.

Yeah I checked it.