Mods for my HF 8x14 lathe ...

[wquiles]

Mods and tooling for my HF 8x14 lathe ...

I decided to start a new one thread since my initial thread was getting heavy on pictures: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=162307

I finished cutting the key slot by hand - it does not look pretty but there is zero play:

I was able to reuse the old metal ring to hold the pulley in place, and I was lucky to find an old screw that was a perfect match to the new shaft!:

Here is the big and heavy 1HP motor bolted (loosely for now to check alignments) to the lathe:

and here is how closely I was able to get the pulley aligned with the tensioner and other pulley - beguiner's luck!:

Now that I was able to "fit" the 1HP motor, I can start looking at the electronics part of this project

Will

 

[TranquillityBase]

That keyway looks perrrrfect to me..., nice job Will:twothumbs

We like picture heavy threads...Get back to work, we want to see more!

 

[yclo]

Wow, must have used up a lot of elbow grease! :thumbsup:

 

[PEU]

That keyway looks perrrrfect to me..., nice job Will:twothumbs

We like picture heavy threads...Get back to work, we want to see more!

+1 Exactly my toughts


Pablo

 

[will]

Nice job.

I do some work on metal by hand, I picked up a few files with different cuts, some are rough, some smooth. It just makes it easier to remove large amounts of metal.

 

[wquiles]

Nice job.

I do some work on metal by hand, I picked up a few files with different cuts, some are rough, some smooth. It just makes it easier to remove large amounts of metal.

Thanks, and my the way, I did try your "flattening" method with the pulley and it does help a little - thanks

Will

 

[will]

Thanks, and my the way, I did try your "flattening" method with the pulley and it does help a little - thanks

Will

That method will just get a little bit, anything beyond that would require a very different method.

When do we start to see some chips on that lathe?

 

[sortafast]

Wish i had the money to put into a project like that for my 8x14 HF lathe. Right now I am trying to get the $$$ set aside for doing a shumatech DRO, but the 1hp motor is on the agenda after that.

 

[wquiles]

When do we start to see some chips on that lathe?

Will - It will probably be a while longer

1) I still have to order a few fuses and the high power HP resistor for my control unit and figure out the wiring since the built-in wiring/components sucks, and since I of course need to add the speed control, heatsink, safely wiring this to my 220AC supply, etc..

2) I need to lap all of the non-hardened surfaces like I did on my mini-mill - that by itself will take a while

3) I am considering doing the Shumatech DRO "before" I even cut any metals - might as well start with the machine "ready". This is a project on to itself ...

4) I want to install a 6" dia, 4-independent jaw chuck - and I need to make or modify the adapter Modamag (Jonathan) sent since it does not fit my lathe

So basically, I still see a couple of more months before you will see any chips flying ... :mecry:

Although I am not yet doing any fun and/or flashlight projects with the new (yet to be used lathe), in a way doing these mods is a fun project by itself. I am learning a few things here and there as I work on these mods, and I still have my smaller lathe and mini mill to help me make/modify stuff that I might need for the project. I am actually having lots of fun doing this - I just wish I had more time to finish sooner

Will

 

[will]

Is the 220 single phase? now that I think about it, it must be.

Why are you lapping the the non hardened parts? I generally just go over the metal with some 600 wet or dry to make sure there are no high spots. Then I coat them with some oil.

One thing I did which saves me time.
I use the cross slide to cut various angles. I put a dial indicator on the lathe, then I made sure that the 0 degree setting was dead on with the dial guage reading the same as I cranked the carriage across. Once that was set at dead '0' I drilled a 1/8 inch hole through the part that carriage is on to the assembly that moves the whole thing. That way - when I want to set it back to '0' all I have to do is put the back of a 1/8 inch drill through the 2 holes and it is lined back up to dead '0' This is sorta like a detent to reset various tools back to some preset setting.

I set the whole thing up, then removed the entire setup and drilled it on my drill press.

 

[wquiles]

Is the 220 single phase? now that I think about it, it must be.

Why are you lapping the the non hardened parts? I generally just go over the metal with some 600 wet or dry to make sure there are no high spots. Then I coat them with some oil.

One thing I did which saves me time.
I use the cross slide to cut various angles. I put a dial indicator on the lathe, then I made sure that the 0 degree setting was dead on with the dial guage reading the same as I cranked the carriage across. Once that was set at dead '0' I drilled a 1/8 inch hole through the part that carriage is on to the assembly that moves the whole thing. That way - when I want to set it back to '0' all I have to do is put the back of a 1/8 inch drill through the 2 holes and it is lined back up to dead '0' This is sorta like a detent to reset various tools back to some preset setting.

I set the whole thing up, then removed the entire setup and drilled it on my drill press.

Yes, single phase.

lapping - because I have done it twice before and it really works. I get very smooth functioning "and" tighter at the same time. Of course, there is a point of diminishing returns, so the key for me is to remove enough of the high points with lapping (I use wheel polishing paste).

I love your idea of the indexing to zero - I will look into doing that when I re-assemble the lathe.

Thanks Will


Will

 

[wykeite]

I love what you're doing with that lathe, mine's similar, a Compact 8 by Emco. I love it.

The only thing that concerns me is your overboring the pulley. If I had overbored it I would have gone much bigger and made a keyed bush to fit. There may be a chance once you get a bit of work under it's belt the keyway in the motor shaft will get distorted which will prove expensive. Alternately you might want to consider a liberal dose of Loctite.

Good luck with the project.

Jim

 

[wquiles]

To keep this post complete, here are the latest mods on my "new" lathe:

- Variable Speed DC Motor/Controller up and running:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=193712

- Bison 6" Set-tru 6-jaw chuck installed in temporary custom Al mounting plate:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=195665


Will

 

[wquiles]

New tooling that I got for my new lathe:

Here is my new internal threading tool next to the old one (which I still need to send to Milkey!):

and some more closeups:

For external threading, I am using this cutting/grooving tool which also can be used with a special threading bit:

Here is my new parting tool with carbide inserts - works great!:

It would not sit low enough, so I had to mill part of the steel holder appropriately:

And although I have some generic turning tools, I bought this one which I will use for the bulk of my turning operations:

For boring, for now I am re-using my old carbide insert tools, but I hope to buy a solid carbide body version (still with carbide inserts) shortly:

Will

 

[gadget_lover]

Very impressive Will. I really like your setup.

You've come a long way in only two years.

Daniel

 

[wquiles]

Thanks Daniel - I am still in learning mode. I just spent the last few nights and this morning re-learning how to do thread with my new lathe and new tool. I can now thread in about 1/4 of the time and the 2HP has tons or torque for threading really slow, which is of course safer

The one thing missing on my lathe (that was built-in the small lathe) that I want to add right now is a lever to engage/disengage the screw that moves the carriage while threading. Right now I have to open the belt cover, and manually move in/out the thread gears

 

[jhanko]

Will,
What model quick change post is that and how does it attach to the compound? I'm looking for the same setup for my new lathe, but am unsure which one to get. No one knows which one fits my lathe as it is brand new to the US. I have a post that is threaded into the compound. Is your compound the same way?

Jeff

 

[KC2IXE]

Which parting tool (block, blade and insert) is that? I've been looking for one, and could never find one to fit 100 series holders

 

[wquiles]

Will,
What model quick change post is that and how does it attach to the compound? I'm looking for the same setup for my new lathe, but am unsure which one to get. No one knows which one fits my lathe as it is brand new to the US. I have a post that is threaded into the compound. Is your compound the same way?

Jeff

I bought them from Lathemaster - specifically since those that Lathemaster sells are made to be a direct fit to the HF8x12 and of course the Lathemaster 8x14 (same identical machine):
http://lathemaster.com/QUICK%20CHANGE%20TOOL%20POST%20SET.htm

Lathemaster sells two types of tool holders if you need additional ones: the STANDARD AXA TYPE and the LATHEMASTER CUSTOM TYPE (which have a "T" in front of the part number). If you have the HF/LM lathe, you want the ones with the T

From looking at the pictures of your lathe and mine, it looks like we have the same style tool holder (also threaded), so I would say that it is likely that your lathe and I likely use the same one:

Will

 

[wquiles]

Which parting tool (block, blade and insert) is that? I've been looking for one, and could never find one to fit 100 series holders

Its an USA Cut Off Tool Kit from Enco - also on special, also with the extra 20% discount.

And no, it does not fit the 100 series holders, but I "made" it fit on my mini-mill. It works REALLY good

Will