Yeah, the flashlight is beautiful and well processed, my friend had one, 2 types of beam quite useful. I wish you good luck so that it doesn't break and you don't have to contact the manufacturer for warranty issues!
Protected and unprotected batteries have the same composition inside, the only difference is the added protection board. Some boards are very sophisticated like new KeepPower P1634U1 860mAh 1,5А, which gives out 3 volts out but inside the same cell at 4.2 volts maximum. Many manufacturers also sell batteries without protection, such as Acebeam, Nitecore, Robiton and other. Just more money for sticker on standard industrial cell which can be bought cheaper without this sticker. In general, I have an idea that both unprotected batteries and protected batteries are beneficial to manufacturers. If a person uses a protected battery and after a while his protection board fails, then most likely he will buy another one of the same battery. Few people would guess to cut off the protection with a knife and continue to use the cell. On the other hand, those who use unprotected batteries in devices that do not have an alarm about the charge level can often discharge them deeper than necessary, which will cause their degradation and after a while it will be discovered that the cell is losing capacity and the device works less time, and then a person will go and buy another battery. In both cases, the savings in money will still be greater than using primary elements. It also happens that cheap chargers or chargers built into the flashlights charge them more than 4.2 volts. If the protection board on the flashlight is good, it will prevent this, if the board is bad or not there, then battery degradation from overcharging can also exist. It is possible that this is programmed by the manufacturers for a shorter lifespan, in order to increase the sale of new copies of the product
Many flashlights now have a low voltage warning, usually around 3 volts, and when this happens most of them jump to the lowest mode and continue to shine, they can just shine, they can flash periodically. It is almost pointless to use cr123 in such flashlights, but it makes sense to use unprotected batteries. There are few flashlights that work equally well on batteries and on primary cells and at the same time have a warning about a low charge of unprotected batteries. Offhand, I remember about the HIVE driver for McGizmo, HDS and someone else, I can't remember. There are good manufacturers who do not have a low battery warning and they operate on both primary and secondary cells, but they tune the lights in such a way that the light becomes noticeably dim before the cell is discharged too much, for example Malkoff. Others, such as Elzetta, try to squeeze the maximum out of the cell, if you do not have a multimeter at hand and do not monitor the voltage, then you can discharge the cell too deeply and it will die.
If your protected battery works well in it, then that's great. The only way to find out how the light is set is to turn it on to the maximum and watch how the brightness decreases - in jumps or smoothly, whether the central emitter switches off at a certain stage or not. Register the time when the light on the battery was turned off and when it happened, when the flashlight is still shining brightly or it will barely shine like a firefly.
