My Sanyo 2400 Ultra Stinger Battery

[Dennis]

I just got an Ultra Stinger and am pretty happy with it. One of the main reasons I bought it was its use of Sub-C batteries and therefore my ability to build a pack out of high-performance RC batteries. It was a little extra work due to the slightly extra length of the Sanyo 2400's as opposed to the OEM batteries, but now I have 600 extra mAH and no problem quick charging in 15 minutes! (With RC charger) If anyone wants any build details, let me know and I will post them.

Impressions:

Brighter Than - SL20x, 9NT, and even 12ZM with 350 lumen bulb.

The spot is as "white" as a M6, but with much less width. The adjustable beam will be good for general purpose use. I see this light as mostly a super bright utility light which is relatively cheap for its capabilities.

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Dennis, I wanted to use the same Sanyos to build a pack for my Surefire 8AX. I know your's is for a ultra-stinger, but can you detail the assembly so I can get a rough idea? Oh, and where did you get the Sanyo RC-2400? I've been looking but it's hard to find. Thanks. Eddie

 

[Dennis]

I got my batteries and shrink wrap at a hobby store with lots of RC stuff. You might get a better deal by looking online for a finished pack, but you would get extra batteries, maybe you could build 2 packs! If you are in CA, you could check if this place is nearby...
http://www.hobbypeople.net/stores/stores.asp

or for a big online store...
http:///www.towerhobbies.com

To make a 8AX pack you basically need to solder the cells together, create the special top negative connection I believe the 8AX uses, solder on a top 9v button, and then shrink wrap the whole thing together.

Of course, there are other questions, like whether or not to use the solder tabs depending on the overall length of the OEM pack vs. the Sanyo cells. And how to create the top negative connection if you don't have an old battery to rip them out of. I made a couple packs for my 9NT, and using the solder tabs was fine lengthwise, but I did not have to create a top negative post. However, you could probably make one using thin scrap metal and thin cardboard for insulation.

One good hint is to create a work fixture by taping together a couple dowels or pipes to keep everything in line.

I hope that wasn't too much already. If you want real nitty gritty details, let me know or email me.

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Actually it's great info. But do I have to run a negative lead from the bottom cell to the the top so that all Negatives are joined at the top?

 

[Dennis]

I am not sure about the 8AX. I just remember hearing that you needed to, and the original 9N/8X batteries I bought were this way. Check out the construction of the batteries you have, a meter will help too...

Good Luck!