New bench tool/vice/3rd-hands ...

wquiles

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Thanks to various forum members I have been improving my setup for bench tools to aid while working on various small projects. The thread on "Flexible Hands" has lots of great ideas by Don, John, and others, so I decided to incorporate these various pieces along with a pin vice into a sturdy and flexible bench tool, based on John's own setup. Let me start by thanking them as they came up with the original idea/setup :thumbsup:


To hold larger items I have a Panavise that I bought that has the "soft jaws", but unfortunately it is unsuitable for small items:
DSCF1653.JPG



I was fortunate that for a base/foundation I had a Panavise tool available that I picked up for free when the lab at my old company closed - you can see it here with the attachment to hold large PWB's. On the left you can see the 4x Flex-A-Mag magnifying piece that I will also be attaching to the base (more on this later). Right in front you see the small pin vise that I have bolted to the bench (thanks much to forum member "darkzero" for learning about this small vice), which has been a little bit less than satisfactory due to being very sloppy:
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I first started with the pin vise:
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So I started by dissasembling the pin vise:
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and measuring the dia of the alignment rods:
DSCF1657.JPG



and finding a drill that would work for this dia:
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Not only am I going to setup new fitted, Delrin sleeves for the alignment rods, but I am also going to create a new fitted "nut" made from Delrin to also eliminate most/all of the slop in the screw mechanism:
DSCF1663.JPG



Once I drill a larger hole, I started making a Delrin plug to match that hole I just made:
DSCF1665.JPG



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The original screw is 1/4"-20tpi:
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Delrin is a slight press fit:
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Then I drill and tap it:
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Here is the finished part:
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Since gluing Delrin is not easy at all, I chose a mechanical way to keep the plug from moving, so I drill/tap on the bottom side using some small screws:
DSCF1675.JPG



I then proceeded to make the larger holes so that I can fit the new Delrin sleeves which will remove all play. Since it is a curve surface I proceeded to use a stiff solid carbide drill to enlarge the original hole and make it "flat" enough for the actual drill to start enlarging the hole. I don't have a DRO installed yet, but I aligned everything by hand/eye as best as I could, plus using a drill that matches the original hole as a centering device:
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The new holes came up perfect - much better than I hoped:
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Again I cut Delrin to the right dia:
DSCF1680.JPG



and drill to match the alignment rods:
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Again I used screws to mechanically keep the Delrin in place:
DSCF1682.JPG



Here is the finished, fitted, "restored" pin vise. On the second pic the Delrin sleeve on the right side of the photo looks bigger in dia than the rod - that is just the bevel I cut on each end. The fit is perfect with zero play:
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One of the goals was to make this pin vise available as an accessory to the Panavise, so it would be easy to reposition as needed, so I will have to drill/tap in order to make it work with the Panavise, but also with a small, movable arm as well. Once I drill and tap the end of the arm, I was able to make it work in a fixture that it fairly firm and adjustable (having it bolted to the bench is not that convenient):
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Now, to make the pin vise work in the Panavise, I modified the end piece and drill/tap the end:
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Once done, I now have the pin vise in an even sturdier platform, which is also completely adjustable:
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To complete the setup, I bought the 4x Flex-A-Mag, and 3x of the premium "3-rd hands" from Otto Frei:
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The tips on these are worlds apart from the traditional aligator tips:
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Now, I got lucky, as the Panavise had already 3 holes with the same exact size/threads as the ones being used by the Otto Frei 3rd-hands:
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So I cut to length some screws:
DSCF1697.JPG



I then drilled a hole to attach the Flex-A-Mag:
DSCF1696.JPG



and then bolt the Flex-A-Mag - note it is not quite touching the bottom as I wanted, while giving a firm hold (the left and right black ones are the rubber feet):
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Here is the complete "fixture" without the pin vise:
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and through the magnifying lens:
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Here are the two tools that can hold the restored pin vise:
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and this is the Panavise setup with the pin vise:
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Now I will finally have a great setup for small parts/projects :party:
 
Last edited:

Bimmerboy

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Dude... that's pretty freakin' excellent! :thumbsup:

Wish I had fancy pants stuff like this. The only hands I use for soldering are the ones I was born with. I've gotten used to it, sort of, but things still get fairly difficult at times. :sigh:
 

mdocod

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Absolute genius Will!

Having the presence of mind to take all the picts while working on something is a huge challenge in and of itself in my experience. I always enjoy seeing your very image heavy posts.

Eric
 

gollum

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nice work...I might have to chase up some of those 3rd hands

thanks for showing lovecpf
 

jch79

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Will, you just made my setup look rather amateur! :laughing:

Seriously awesome use of the Panavise, and adapting the pin vise to it. Great WIP pictures and explanations too. :twothumbs

:thumbsup: john
 

tino_ale

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At this point, maybe you should consider making one from scratch from stainless steel :poke:

Very nive work indeed!
 

wquiles

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Of course, I built it to use it ... here working on the PhD-M6 project ...

At first glance the 3x arms sounds excessive as one would think two are enough, but that is not the case. Holding this 4" by 4" PWD can't be done in the small pin vise, so the 3 arms give it a great hold - super stable:
DSCF1730.JPG



Best thing about the 3 arms is that I needed a 3rd arm for a quick soldering of the tips of this small wire, so I was able to just keep the board floating in place with two arms:
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The built-in Flex-a-Mag is truly a must have!
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Note in this last picture how easily it is to rotate the pin vise out of the way :D
DSCF1735.JPG
 

wquiles

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An update on my Electronics bench - it just went through a small re-org/restoration of sorts ...

This is pretty much how it looked before:
DSCF1652.JPG



So back from when the lab closed, I saved two static ground pads for benches, but have never gotten around to installing them. Today I decided I wanted to start using it:
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I ground it to the metal chassis which is earth ground:
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I already had the wrist band static connection, also setup to the same metal ground:
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The mat was used and stained, but to my surprise, car brake cleaner did wonders on it:
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This is my much improved setup:
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I also re-organized the shelf to make space for my 3rd hand setup when not in use:
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Thanks to forum member "darkzero" I now also have a nice self-healing cutting pad to go along with the "restored" bench:
DSCF1764.JPG



Believe or not I had a total of 3 soldering systems, so I will putting out this this Weller WTCPT station for sale pretty soon:
DSCF1765.JPG



the tip still in great shape as I always keep it tinned:
DSCF1766.JPG



Will
 

darkzero

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Cool, I see you have a preheater & hot air, never noticed those before. What type of rework do you do?
 

darkzero

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Good eye, those are only about a month old or so. Those I am learning to use for my PhD-M6 project.

Always. :grin2: I pay far much to attention to all the details with everything. My brothers say this is part of my OCD. :ohgeez:Whenever someone posts a picture I tend to look at the surroundings before the subject. :laughing:

Nice project, looks fun but very very time consuming. Can't wait to see the finished product. :thumbsup:

Looks like you have the Hakko style based hot air station with the built in soldering iron but the model with the built in smoke sucker thing? I've only seen those on ebay, does that feature work well?

At work we use the Hakko copies as well but they are Madell. Although many will say to stay away from them, they work pretty well & ours get used daily & are on all day, mine has been going strong for years now without a failure. I don't use the built in solder iron though, we use Hakko soldering stations.

I love soldering/rework probably more than I like machining, less tiring IMO, but more hazardous to the health if you do a lot of it. Looks like you have one but if you do a lot of soldering a nice large strong fume extractor is a must!
 

wquiles

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Always. :grin2: I pay far much to attention to all the details with everything. My brothers say this is part of my OCD. :ohgeez:Whenever someone posts a picture I tend to look at the surroundings before the subject. :laughing:
Perhaps, but it is also why your work is so awesome ;)


Nice project, looks fun but very very time consuming. Can't wait to see the finished product. :thumbsup:
I have been incredibly fortunate in that I have learned a lot (and I am still learning a lot) from Alan, Jimmy, and George. I hope that I will be able to come up with more circuits, simple small/drivers (stuff George does not makes/offers), and a new concept that I am calling the "Magneto Drive", some time this year.


Looks like you have the Hakko style based hot air station with the built in soldering iron but the model with the built in smoke sucker thing? I've only seen those on ebay, does that feature work well?

At work we use the Hakko copies as well but they are Madell. Although many will say to stay away from them, they work pretty well & ours get used daily & are on all day, mine has been going strong for years now without a failure. I don't use the built in solder iron though, we use Hakko soldering stations.
I have 3 setups:
- (used) Metcal MX-500P-11, with both the single wand and the separate tweezers for SM parts
- (new) AOYUE 968 SMD/SMT Rework Station, and the AOYUE 853A Quartz Preheating Station
- (bought new, but used for a short while) Weller WTCPT soldering station.

I have not used the Metcal much, but now that I will be doing more Surface Mount parts I will be using it more often, so that is why I am now selling my Weller station. I have yet to do any soldering on the hew AOYUE station so I don't know how the built-in fume extractor works (or not) - I have so far have used the hot air gun briefly while learning to do the re-flow soldering, and that parts works great!.


I love soldering/rework probably more than I like machining, less tiring IMO, but more hazardous to the health if you do a lot of it. Looks like you have one but if you do a lot of soldering a nice large strong fume extractor is a must!
On this photo, shown in between the two circular lamps against the wall, with the solder roll in the middle (next to the LiIon cell battery pack that I am fixing!), that is my fume extractor - at least for now ;)
DSCF1764.JPG
 
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