*New* Lumintop Titanium Tool

Mountain

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Joined
Dec 18, 2014
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35
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Here and there
Well got my tool in the mail yesterday and tried it out last night. Wow. Awesome little floody light. The clicky switch is so easy to turn on you can use your fingernail. Yet since it's flush with the end there's not a big worry it will get turned on by accident. Took the dogs for a walk in the woods last night and medium (32 lumens) was more than enough to light the path and surrounding areas. I did however swap out the keychain clasp for the one on my streamlight nano, works great. Overall very happy I bought this. If your on the fence about getting one go for it, you won't be disappointed!
 

Mountain

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Joined
Dec 18, 2014
Messages
35
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Here and there
Paid $59 for mine and it's personal preference but I like M-L-H mode sequence myself. Using M the most it works for me, but to each their own! Enjoy fellas!.
HA! Right there with ya jon. Lower price, better mode sequence, better levels. Seems like a no-brainer.
 

jon_slider

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 31, 2015
Messages
5,179
Paid $59 for mine and it's personal preference but I like M-L-H mode sequence myself. Using M the most it works for me, but to each their own! Enjoy fellas!.

You too! I enjoy learning about how others use their lights.

I agree M is most used, and I like M first too, but I want Nichia so I get L first, (for less but I have to delay gratification for a month :). I can deal with either first mode setup, if it gets me the LED I want.

I also respect that you wanted the brighter light with the XPG2, and there are times I do too. otoh, the Nichia LED is a personal favorite due to my strong priority on High CRI..

courses for horses, you do real work with your lights, where brightness matters more than CRI.. totally respect that
im just an old guy entertaining myself with LED tints, CRI, copper's antibacterial properties, and similar trivia…
any price over $20 is an initial deterrent to participation for me, but, the taste of quality lasts long after the price is forgotten :)

besides, these things are easy to resell.. or so I tell myself as my accumulation grows.. LOL

BOTH is BEST!..

013fca051349e40df67644b74ff2e139.jpg
 
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tjdean01

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Apr 8, 2008
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55
Location
USA
Why is this only rated 30min on high when the Maratac Rev 3 is over an hour?
 

Mountain

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Joined
Dec 18, 2014
Messages
35
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Here and there
"besides, these things are easy to resell.. or so I tell myself as my accumulation grows.. LOL". John I tell my wife the same thing. :)
 

jon_slider

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 31, 2015
Messages
5,179
Why is this only rated 30min on high when the Maratac Rev 3 is over an hour?

runtime is very misleading, that does not mean an hour at the initial brightness, it means an hour by which time brightness fell to 10% of initial value. Nobody in their right batteries would actually call that kind of dim output a High.

background reading, click the links for more detailP.S.: Despite the above, I continue to recommend that people do NOT focus on max lumens estimates at the rather arbitrary time point of 30 secs post-activation (i.e. the ANSI FL-1 standard). It is far more important to pay attention to the actual output/runtime graphs, as these show you how the relative output changes over time. On max, a lot of Iights tend to drop off rapidly in output, or step-down after a couple of minutes. As such, you risk being misled if you simply look at ANSI FL-1 output and runtime values for a given light. I discuss the importance of comparing runtime graphs visually on my Testing Methods - Runtimes page on flashlightreviews.ca.

here is an old maratac test (click that link for more details) that shows it took about 34 minutes on an alkaline to get to a 50% drop in brightness (Im reading from the legend box)
EOS-HiAlka.gif


here is the same light but using an Ultimate Lithium, 1 hour 37 minutes to 50%
EOS-HiL92.gif


note the two tests above are different by 1 full hour of runtime, based on different battery types

now for the punchline, here is a Lumintop Tool, that ran for pretty much exactly the same amount of time as the Maratac (when both use the same battery type):
here is his test of an old Lumintop Tool, 1 hour 34 minutes to 50%
Tool-HiL92.gif


Moral of the story, there is only so much energy in a AAA battery. No matter what light you put it in, it will only last as long as any other light, assuming the same brightness, and the same battery.

in practical terms, and imho, an AAA battery cannot sustain 100+ lumens for more than about 30 minutes. But it can go for several hours at 30 lumens. For me, the AAA format is most suited to run on Medium for long periods. The High is mostly for short periods, less than 5 minutes at a time mostly.. just my opinions, others may differ

note I give links to back up my opinions, I invite others to do the same :)
bottom line, any single AAA light will perform similar to any other in terms of runtime, for me what matters more than runtime is tint and CRI, which is why I avoid most XPG2 lights, and get really excited about the Nichia 219 being offered as an option (I usually have to pay someone to swap out a Cool White LED when I want High CRI)
 
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RUSH FAN

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 22, 2013
Messages
1,172
Location
USA
Re: Lumintop TOOL Ti

Just got it. Below is a size comparison with some other aaa size lights. I have a Prometheus titanium clip on it. Yes, I know that it looks funky with it on, but I much prefer this clip than the friction clip it came with[emoji1]
0acfe7b65640c8ca9d84ab8e484a0dd4.jpg

Lumintop ti tool
Muhaha ti host lf2xt
Preon I (1st generation )
Thorfire ts07
 
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gurdygurds

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 7, 2014
Messages
1,993
Re: Lumintop TOOL Ti

Thanks for the photo. Any chance the darksucks clip fits on it!!!
Just got it. Below is a size comparison with some other aaa size lights. I have a Prometheus titanium clip on it. Yes, I know that it looks funky with it on, but I much prefer this clip than the friction clip it came with[emoji1]
0acfe7b65640c8ca9d84ab8e484a0dd4.jpg

Lumintop ti tool
Muhaha ti host lf2xt
Preon I (1st generation )
Thorfire ts07
 

tjdean01

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 8, 2008
Messages
55
Location
USA
runtime is very misleading, that does not mean an hour at the initial brightness, it means an hour by which time brightness fell to 10% of initial value. Nobody in their right batteries would actually call that kind of dim output a High.

background reading, click the links for more detailP.S.: Despite the above, I continue to recommend that people do NOT focus on max lumens estimates at the rather arbitrary time point of 30 secs post-activation (i.e. the ANSI FL-1 standard). It is far more important to pay attention to the actual output/runtime graphs, as these show you how the relative output changes over time. On max, a lot of Iights tend to drop off rapidly in output, or step-down after a couple of minutes. As such, you risk being misled if you simply look at ANSI FL-1 output and runtime values for a given light. I discuss the importance of comparing runtime graphs visually on my Testing Methods - Runtimes page on flashlightreviews.ca.

here is an old maratac test (click that link for more details) that shows it took about 34 minutes on an alkaline to get to a 50% drop in brightness (Im reading from the legend box)
EOS-HiAlka.gif


here is the same light but using an Ultimate Lithium, 1 hour 37 minutes to 50%
EOS-HiL92.gif


note the two tests above are different by 1 full hour of runtime, based on different battery types

now for the punchline, here is a Lumintop Tool, that ran for pretty much exactly the same amount of time as the Maratac (when both use the same battery type):
here is his test of an old Lumintop Tool, 1 hour 34 minutes to 50%
Tool-HiL92.gif


Moral of the story, there is only so much energy in a AAA battery. No matter what light you put it in, it will only last as long as any other light, assuming the same brightness, and the same battery.

in practical terms, and imho, an AAA battery cannot sustain 100+ lumens for more than about 30 minutes. But it can go for several hours at 30 lumens. For me, the AAA format is most suited to run on Medium for long periods. The High is mostly for short periods, less than 5 minutes at a time mostly.. just my opinions, others may differ

note I give links to back up my opinions, I invite others to do the same :)
bottom line, any single AAA light will perform similar to any other in terms of runtime, for me what matters more than runtime is tint and CRI, which is why I avoid most XPG2 lights, and get really excited about the Nichia 219 being offered as an option (I usually have to pay someone to swap out a Cool White LED when I want High CRI)

Thank you for this. It is as I would have initially assumed, considering the LED is the same. I am leaning towards the Maratec vs the Tool mainly for size and beam clarity. I'm learning toward aluminum too, for the much lower price and ability to simply touch it up with black marker when I scratch it. Thanks again!

About lumens, I'm fine usually using 10 lm in the dark. There are times when inspecting a basement of a home through windows for my job that I need more. I need that to have a strong hotspot and when I KNOW I'm going out to do external inspections I'll simple grab my large worklight but in a pinch to always have 100 lm with me is very nice.
 

MikeSalt

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Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
1,948
Location
Stoke On Trent, Staffordshire, UK
Only nitpicky fault I can pick at the moment is that it's obvious that the knurling tool slipped at some point, so the knurling at the base of the head has a slight discontinuity in the pattern. Other than that, incredibly happy with this light.
 

phosphor22

Enlightened
Joined
Sep 13, 2015
Messages
495
Location
USA
Only nitpicky fault I can pick at the moment is that it's obvious that the knurling tool slipped at some point, so the knurling at the base of the head has a slight discontinuity in the pattern. Other than that, incredibly happy with this light.

I've been looking for more info about the beam characteristics and noted that earlier you mentioned it was a floody beam; don't know if you have the copper reylight, but I have that - if so is the beam similar?
 

jon_slider

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 31, 2015
Messages
5,179
is the beam similar?
I would also like to see a side by side beam photo of the CU and Ti Tool
I would also like to know if the TiTool clickie, works on a CuTool and vice versa

my guess is that the current model Maratac, Tool, and Worm use the same reflector,

I also believe the heads are Lego able from Tool to Maratac both ways. The Worm head works on the Tool and Maratac, but the Worm body wont light Maratac nor Tool heads. The worm threads are too short.

the TiTool is the first to use the brass pill module and split head design. The head and body are threaded differently and are not Lego compatible with the others mentioned above.
 
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lund1660

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jun 20, 2015
Messages
92
Got my lights in tried a 10440, lost low and median but high is incredible. Put in an eneloop and all modes work perfect.
 

write2dgray

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 23, 2009
Messages
315
Location
Princeton, NJ
Same :). This is the only AAA sized light I've owned of that won't accept them, but fortunately it didn't cause any damage. Just one real BRIGHT high mode!

Maybe a candidate for a driver swap?
 
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