New release Fenix P1

[700club]

I hope they fix the flicker problem. Every P1 I have owned flickers, it drives me crazy!

 

[chrome-addict]

I'd like a natural L0D-CE.

+1, +2, +3 ...

 

[NeonLights]

I'd bet 90% of the Fenix owners would rather see a P1D-CE/P2D-CE/P3D-CE with a lower output low setting long before a constant output CR123A light at 90 lumens.

I guess I'm in that other 10%. I love my simple little single stage P1 with a twisty. I don't care for lights with multiple settings in general (with the exception of the SF L1 and A2), especially at the cheaper end of the price scale.

I want a single stage, bright, 123-cell powered light that is simple and compact, that will compliment my Arc AAA. My Arc LSH-P used to fill that role (sold it when they went under), now my Fenix P1 fills that same role, but I would upgrade to a brighter version of the P1 as long as the price wasn't much more than the current one.

-Keith

 

[outlaw918692000]

I guess I'm in that other 10%. I love my simple little single stage P1 with a twisty. I don't care for lights with multiple settings in general (with the exception of the SF L1 and A2), especially at the cheaper end of the price scale.

I want a single stage, bright, 123-cell powered light that is simple and compact, that will compliment my Arc AAA. My Arc LSH-P used to fill that role (sold it when they went under), now my Fenix P1 fills that same role, but I would upgrade to a brighter version of the P1 as long as the price wasn't much more than the current one.

-Keith

Exactly my thought. I want the most output in a small light. I hate the thought of having to worry about other settings going out, or having to cycle it just to get to high. I will be all over this one.

 

[LightScene]

I don't understand the desire for a clicky switch on such a small EDC light. It's difficult to activate, and it makes the light bigger. On a 2x123 cell light, or bigger, the clicky is perfect, but not on an intentionally small light. Of course there's no reason why they can't offer both.

 

[NeonLights]

I don't understand the desire for a clicky switch on such a small EDC light. It's difficult to activate, and it makes the light bigger. On a 2x123 cell light, or bigger, the clicky is perfect, but not on an intentionally small light. Of course there's no reason why they can't offer both.

I agree. On some (larger) lights, a clicky or momentary push-button just makes sense, but for me, not on a very small EDC light like the P1. Of course the old ARC LS series lights offered both, but in the year or two I had mine, I never used the clicky, always the twisty tailcap.

-Keith

 

[Sharpy_swe]

IMHO I would prefer the same output as the P1 but with the Cree's longer "burn time". I think the output from my P1 is almost perfect for a small EDC flashlight; the only worry with the P1 is the "burn time".

 

[savumaki]

I guess I'm in that other 10%. I love my simple little single stage P1 with a twisty. I don't care for lights with multiple settings in general (with the exception of the SF L1 and A2), especially at the cheaper end of the price scale.

I want a single stage, bright, 123-cell powered light that is simple and compact, that will compliment my Arc AAA. My Arc LSH-P used to fill that role (sold it when they went under), now my Fenix P1 fills that same role, but I would upgrade to a brighter version of the P1 as long as the price wasn't much more than the current one.

-Keith

Another 10 percenter here- brighter and simple gets my vote.
As much as I love fwd. clickies, I think it would make a simple pocket light too long.

 

[BSCOTT1504]

It's only $40.95! Minus CPF8 = $37.68 with free shipping! Black or Natural. We have a winner!

 

[waTom]

I don't even need to hope that it will have a OP-reflector, do I?

 

[Kilovolt]

I don't even need to hope that it will have a OP-reflector, do I?

For the time being at Fenix they are apparently not considering stippled reflectors. Fenix Store offers some custom made OP reflectors but not for P1:

http://fenix-store.com/product_info.php?products_id=224

:shakehead

I guess the only solution is with Scotch Magic Tape....

 

[Marcus Aurelius]

It's only $40.95! Minus CPF8 = $37.68 with free shipping! Black or Natural. We have a winner!

I'm unimpressed. I have one of these http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2821 and it has excellent build quality and output for under $15. The new P1 will probably have better regulation, but it is worth the extra $25? I would be interested if the new P1 came in at around $25. Otherwise, it doesn't seem worth it to me.

 

[4sevens]

I'd like a natural L0D-CE.

The wait is over! They'll start shipping out in 1 week
They're available for pre-ordering.

Yes. It's a tad longer than the P1. 90 fully regulated lumens!
More info to come!

The P1 CE (black and natural) will show up June 15th. They're on pre-order
now. Check out the pictures of the black units.
http://fenix-store.com/index.php?cPath=61

They use the same current regulated circuit but at 90 lumens.
The switch contact is improved and it now uses a brass heatsink

 

[savumaki]

Order entered for one of each.
tks

 

[chevrofreak]

The original P1 I tested was about 45 lumens, so if they keep the drive current the same then I have no doubt that the XR-E version will be atleast 85 lumens.

 

[bfg9000]

The switch contact is improved and it now uses a brass heatsink

Brass pill threaded into a brass heatsink should fix it right up!

But I hope the heatsink is well crimped into the aluminum (it's HA) head so it cannot loosen. Wonder if there is some technical reason they did not just use an aluminum pill like everyone else?

If the beamshots look OK, I'll be in for a couple; those direct-drive Li-ion lights may be fun but the longer runtime on primaries (2 hours regulated!) is far more practical for something that is actually carried. Efficiency is important there because it reduces the number of spare cells needed, effectively making the light smaller.

 

[Handlobraesing]

Now... they say 90 lumens.... does that really mean 81 lumens? Fenix lights never ever hit their documented brightness. all tests have shown that if you want that brightness they stats that you need certain rechargables and even in that case the light will not stay at that level.. 15 mins it settles to the "normal" lm range. 130 lm = 109 and 160 lm = (i think) 120

Why dont they do what surefure do, and state a figure it will definitly hit, but might be even better? the P2D CE should be rated at 100 Lm and P3D CE should be rated 115 Lm

i took the stats someone on cpf took that 109 was the average of the p2d and i used that in my equasion of the flashlightforum figures and found the P3D was 119 (statistically) i have not tested and have no method. but even though you can see by the fact the actual stats show 109 is what you get standard with the p2d ce..

For all I know, someone has sent a Fenix along with a few Arcs to a testing lab, which has a calibrated integrating sphere and found the Fenix's (was it L1P? I'm not sure of the model) output to be about half of what they claim. If you search thoroughly on CPF, you should be able to find the thread. I didn't make the data and my opinion has nothing to do with the way their data turned out.

Many manufactures use the method of finding the most favorable lumen rating from the LED manufacturers' page, which applies to their top end bin and operating at Tj of 25°C or so, which almost certain requires cryogenic cooling to maintain (temperature of 25C at the junction at 1+ A)

 

[GarageBoy]

Hmm..my modded P1 is putting out 90 lumens OTF using an L2 and HDS as refernces and I still have the 2 hr run time

 

[chevrofreak]

For all I know, someone has sent a Fenix along with a few Arcs to a testing lab, which has a calibrated integrating sphere and found the Fenix's (was it L1P? I'm not sure of the model) output to be about half of what they claim. If you search thoroughly on CPF, you should be able to find the thread. I didn't make the data and my opinion has nothing to do with the way their data turned out.

Many manufactures use the method of finding the most favorable lumen rating from the LED manufacturers' page, which applies to their top end bin and operating at Tj of 25°C or so, which almost certain requires cryogenic cooling to maintain (temperature of 25C at the junction at 1+ A)

The L0P and L1P were very overrated on lumens, but the recent Fenix numbers have been pretty much dead on for what the lumens at the emitter would be.

 

[powernoodle]

I don't understand the desire for a clicky switch on such a small EDC light. It's difficult to activate

I find it is just the opposite. A clicky is much faster to bring into action than a twisty, and also allows for one hand operation which is often slow or impossible with many twisties.

A couple of years ago we would have been soiling ourselves with glee over this new P1. Or even the current P1. Lets not forget that they are dang bright.

I'll be buying one.

cheers