New Wurkkos TS10, a Floody Titanium light with Triple High CRI LEDs plus RGB Aux for under $50

cave dave

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I got my Copper Ti model a couple days ago. I took the battery out and the O-ring off and did three rounds of Nyogel applications and wiping off with multiple twistings on each round and noticed no unusual amounts of copper shavings on any of the Nyogel I wiped off. So I just assembled it with a charged battery and I shouldn't have to remove the battery for a month. Maybe I'll do another few rounds then.
 

vicv

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Mar 22, 2013
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I just rechecked level 50 (actually 51, cause I only did 10x 1H) on a 6000K aluminium
I got 15.3 lumens w a 3.9V battery level
it appears on the chart you first quoted I misplaced a decimal, and the second chart fixed the decimal.. it shows 17 lumens (more fully charged battery)

> And here with your titanium model, your claim is the titanium is worse thermally. Which is true. So you set the ceiling to 90. Which is what you recommended for my aluminum model as the top of 7135 and 120L.

I think the ramp on the Ti model makes level 90 equivalent to level 110 on aluminium, but I cant verify, as my Ti light has been shipped out

> But you claim your tits10 sustains about 225 lumens. How, if level 90, your max level on that light, is only 120L.

I may have uses level 90 for simple mode and level 120 for the sustainable output test.

I use a lower ceiling for simple mode than for advanced..

so, do you have any other specific output questions? I only have a 6000K aluminium atm ;-)

it may interest you to get your own lumen meter, plus a Ti model.. it can be very entertaining.. (almost as fun as herding cats, lol)

Had a fantastic Powder Skiing day :)
I looked at those light meters. They're like $3000. I don't need to know that bad. Just making conversation
 

raggie33

*the raggedier*
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Aug 11, 2003
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sorry for your continued delayed gratification

USPS might be more confused than usual, due to the holiday mail volume

I hope your Day of Joy arrives soon ;-)
its in tallasee florida now dont think its been there yet lol so maybe thats good news
 

lumen aeternum

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geez, 7 pages mostly about the user interface. I presume there is a SIMPLE mode that just goes thru colors & brightnesses? I had a side-head Zebra which I used with almost dead alkalines as a Vampire - and I wanted that very low lumens for the bedroom. But it succumbed to a leaker.

This is a novelty for me with the 3 single color LEDs, on sale for ~$15. But the UE puts me off. I'll give it a try.

They have another which seems to step thru 6 shades of color & uses a bigger battery:


$26.39
$59.98-56%

Wurkkos TS11 Mini 18350 Flashlight USB C Rechargeable EDC SFT40 Torch Powerful 2000LM RGB Auxiliary IP68 Waterproof Anduril 2.0

 

raggie33

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the inerface is pretty simple but it can do so much id want anduril on all my lights if i could get them that way
 

vicv

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I think you misplaced a decimal.. lol
Here is one for about $250
my meter cost $45.. you would need to assemble some tubes to collect and diffuse the light...
That looks like a neat setup. I was talking about this. Thought it was standard

 

jon_slider

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Mar 31, 2015
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Yes Sekonic are great, some start at about $800 but even something like this can measure Lux. The Sekonic also measures individual CRI color elements.. it is very full featured, far beyond just measuring how bright a light is.

I use something similar to that Amazon light meter.. that I "calibrated" to my HDS..

here is a video of my HDS, checking how stable (very), the various outputs are


by contrast here is the very UnStable output of a Nitecore EX11.2 Piston Drive host:


thats just a vitamin cap covering the light sensor.. I added multiple layers of tissue paper under the cap, until the meter read 200 lumens, to match the HDS..

To my great suprise, the meter reads lower outputs quite consistently.. where it starts to go out of calibration is above about 800 lumens.. for example, my TS10 only reads about 1100 lumens on my meter, but it is actually closer to 1400 initial lumens on more expensive equipment

Here is a Tutorial on how to build your own Lumen Tube (similar concept as the Texas Ace Lumen tubes, that come precalibrated and ready to use) using PVC pipes as the Intergrating "Sphere". That tutorial is intended for a unit that can produce complete runtime graphs, plotting output over time..
 
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raggie33

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Maybe I should have sniped my self to the light .for all we know I'd end up in Amsterdam covered in velvet
 

vicv

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Yes Sekonic are great, some start at about $800 but even something like this can measure Lux. The Sekonic also measures individual CRI color elements.. it is very full featured, far beyond just measuring how bright a light is.

I use something similar to that Amazon light meter.. that I "calibrated" to my HDS..

here is a video of my HDS, checking how stable (very), the various outputs are


by contrast here is the very UnStable output of a Nitecore EX11.2 Piston Drive host:


thats just a vitamin cap covering the light sensor.. I added multiple layers of tissue paper under the cap, until the meter read 200 lumens, to match the HDS..

To my great suprise, the meter reads lower outputs quite consistently.. where it starts to go out of calibration is above about 800 lumens.. for example, my TS10 only reads about 1100 lumens on my meter, but it is actually closer to 1400 initial lumens on more expensive equipment

Here is a Tutorial on how to build your own Lumen Tube using PVC pipes as the Intergrating "Sphere"

Thanks. I'll look into it
 

jon_slider

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Here is a video that covers a number of different light measuring tools:


for your basic lumen measuring interests, even something like the Ceiling Bounce app could be informative
 

Monocrom

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geez, 7 pages mostly about the user interface. I presume there is a SIMPLE mode that just goes thru colors & brightnesses?
Technically yes.
I wanted the simple U.I. of Very Bright, followed by Less Bright.
But wanted the red Aux. LEDs on mine to be in their brightest setting.
So, looked up a video on YouTube. Click 6 times rapidly. Wait.
Click 7 more times rapidly. (Might have been the other way around.)
Anyway, got what I wanted.... eventually.
 

jon_slider

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This is a novelty for me
I find Anduril UI to be a very full featured Programmable UI.

I am the sort of person that is interested in lights with a Programmable UI, such as Zebralight and HDS. I read the manuals in order to be able to use the Programming Options.

Anduril is a Programmable UI, but like Zebralight and HDS you dont Have To change the default programmed options, unless you Want to.

Anduril has a Ramping UI, that is very similar to the Zebra or HDS Rotary ability to Ramp through the range of outputs.. Zebralight Ramping is limited to 3 steps.. an HDS Rotary can Ramp through its output range, divided into 24 steps..

Anduril can be set to either of those number of Ramping Steps, IF you want to. I actually like to use my Anduril lights, set to 12 step Ramping (homage to the total number of hidden steps in a Zebra).

One of the more useful features in Anduril, for me, is the ability to check battery Voltage. Neither HDS nor Zebra can do that.

I agree that the Aux lights can be a Novelty feature. I dont use them in that way. I do like to use the Aux as Locator lights, similar in function to Tritium markers. Aux lights offer User Selectable brightness and some Aux also offer the ability to choose the display color, neither of which Tritium can do.

BTW, Some Anduril lights Do Have the ability to use Firefly output levels, as low as a Zebra or HDS.
 
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raggie33

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It's here it's here omg it's so pretty also got a few more basic ts10s and they sent me a free light and battery lol
 
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