Nichia Jupiter now avalible at...

NewBie

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Issac,

The Nichia parts, like many semiconductor parts should be kept in a low humidity environment, as moisture (humidity) gets into the parts otherwise, and can cause them to pop apart like popcorn, or cause other minor damage during surface mount reflow. An example would be the silicone or phosphor blowing apart or delaminating.

The Luxeons are --->*NOT*<--- designed for surface mount reflow ovens, and you'll most likely completely destroy the part. The Luxeon package is not designed for such "abuse".

One of these days LumiLEDs will catch up to reality of modern day manufacturing techniques and package requirements. Others like OSRAM, Nichia, and CREE are already there.


Here is some comparision shots, the paper is sitting at a 45 degree angle.

The Luxeon is one of the Lux III, TWOK, recent purchase.
The Nichia is a Jupiter.
The Cree is a very old part, the have improved the device *very* significantly since this photo.

All parts are mounted on the same type and size of heatsink and have exactly the same current flowing through them, as they are all wired in series.

compar3.jpg
 

IsaacHayes

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Looks like the cree is fairly wide angle like the luxeon and puts out a lot of light! Especially if there is an improved version. This looks like the king for photons in the 1W catagory...
 

The_LED_Museum

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I have the Nichia NCLU001 near-ultraviolet power LED, but I cannot test it or even mount it to the board they later sent because it requires reflow soldering. :/
 

IsaacHayes

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Hmm. can't you just tin the parts then heat them up? Or do you have to heat the whole part for some reason?
 

The_LED_Museum

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The solder pads on this LED are far, far too small to connect to wires with an ordinary soldering iron. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jpshakehead.gif
Even somebody with a dedicated SMD iron and very steady hands probably could not do it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

IsaacHayes

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Could you try to take some stranded wire, yank one of the bare wires out, tin it a lot, then press the wire on the led and heat the wire enough to get the solder on the wire to joint the two? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif
 

snakebite

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send it to me.
i will mount it on the board for you.
.8 mm is huge!

[ QUOTE ]
The_LED_Museum said:
The solder pads on this LED are far, far too small to connect to wires with an ordinary soldering iron. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jpshakehead.gif
Even somebody with a dedicated SMD iron and very steady hands probably could not do it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
 

raggie33

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so it is better then lumleds?i like compition i wannnnaaa see more efcant leds and briter
 
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