no way to buy jetbeam jet 1 mk ibs

[moviles]

i want buy the most powerfull 1x14500 flaslhigt of the world!
i have the jetbeam jet 1 pro ibs v2 and i want buy the jet mk 1 ibs.
omg i cant find were to buy the jetbeam jet 1 mk ibs
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=194877
i cant find it in bugoutgearusa.com or neolumen.com
where can i buy this flasligt?????? help please

 

[JeffN]

Welcome to CPF. I know your frustration -- a couple of months ago I wanted a Jet-I MK IBS, too. Unfortunately, it appears the entire run was sold out in 2008. I managed to buy a couple of lightly used ones in the Marketplace -- one is on my belt right now. Keep your eyes open, or you might try posting a "want to buy" in the Markeplace.

Good luck -- it's a great little light.

 

[StarHalo]

Mine is currently in its usual cargo pants pocket, powered by an AW 14500. +1 to JeffN's suggestion of a Want To Buy post in the Marketplace, it's worth the effort.

 

[Cheapskate]

Search eBay using the word jetbeam and you might find some. I am no expert on how to tell them apart but the ones I have seen make no mention of being v2.

Anyway, don't you want the original R2 version that came before the IBS versions? I thought that was the most powerful one in the I series.

 

[moviles]

no way to find on ebay and no way to find anywere,
the jet 1 pro ibs v2 its more powerfull than jet1 pro with 14500 batteries
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/selfbuilt/JetEX-Hi14500.gif
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=204192
i want now a small flahligt like jet1 mk ibs . maybe the only way its make a custom flasligt ,...
maybe the way its customize my cheap ulrafire c3 q5 and make it direct drived with 14500 protected, i think the curent draw will be arround 1.4 amps like my jet1pro ibs v2( 1.41 amps read with 14500 protected battery)

 

[kaichu dento]

I got both mine in the Marketplace and I like them even more than the Pro IBS version.

The only thing I don't like about them is the button is very hard to access. Not only that, but it is a very slippery light and I have a hard time activating the clicky without using both hands.

Has anyone had any luck replacing the switch in the Mk IBS, or altering it to make it more easily activated?

 

[importculture]

Has anyone had any luck replacing the switch in the Mk IBS, or altering it to make it more easily activated?

I used a dremmel is grind down the metal around the switch in 3 places then polished it. tailstandings kinda iffy but looks pretty cool and pushing the switch is much easier. Or you could buy a new rubber boot from KD(I think). It has a bit of rubber under the boot to make the switch taller. There's a post somewhere about this. hope this helps.

 

[JeffN]

The only thing I don't like about them is the button is very hard to access. Not only that, but it is a very slippery light and I have a hard time activating the clicky without using both hands.

Has anyone had any luck replacing the switch in the Mk IBS, or altering it to make it more easily activated?

I've made a simple change to all of my reverse-clicky 14500 and RCR123 Jetbeams -- replacing the black switch boot with one of the red/orange/green ones, and putting a #6 flat washer in the boot before reinstalling the switch. The light still tailstands, but you don't have to depress the boot as much for switching. I've found it makes a big difference, and nothing gets modified.

Note that a #8 washer actually fits better in the boot, but the tip of the switch fits into the washer hole -- the perfect lock out! Unfortunately, the light is then unuseable...

 

[JeffN]

Anyway, don't you want the original R2 version that came before the IBS versions? I thought that was the most powerful one in the I series.

I think you're referring to the Jet-I Mk II R, which preceded the Jet-I MK IBS. That light had a Cree XR-E Q4, not an R2. The IBS lights have a Q5.

I may be wrong, but I believe the limited-run Jet-III Pro ST with broad voltage circuit is the first Jetbeam with an R2. I have one, and it's bright but it's also on the green side of beam color. I just checked BugOut Gear, and he no longer shows that light being available.

 

[StarHalo]

The washer method seems to be the universally accepted way to improve the switch on the Mk. I'll have to sift through the interconnect section of the local hardware store next time I'm there..

 

[Cheapskate]

I think you're referring to the Jet-I Mk II R, which preceded the Jet-I MK IBS. That light had a Cree XR-E Q4, not an R2. The IBS lights have a Q5.

I may be wrong, but I believe the limited-run Jet-III Pro ST with broad voltage circuit is the first Jetbeam with an R2. I have one, and it's bright but it's also on the green side of beam color. I just checked BugOut Gear, and he no longer shows that light being available.

Sorry, I misread the original question, I thought it was the Pro that was being referred to and now realise it wasn't and was actually the mk, whatever that stands for.

I find these mk,pro,I,v2,jet, designations just a bit messy and hard to keep up with their combinations and permutations.

 

[JeffN]

I find these mk,pro,I,v2,jet, designations just a bit messy and hard to keep up with their combinations and permutations.

Fully agree with you. The versions-within-versons, as happened with the Jet-II MK3, make it even harder to keep track. The Jetbeam line is very dynamic.

 

[kaichu dento]

I used a dremmel is grind down the metal around the switch in 3 places then polished it. tailstandings kinda iffy but looks pretty cool and pushing the switch is much easier. Or you could buy a new rubber boot from KD(I think). It has a bit of rubber under the boot to make the switch taller. There's a post somewhere about this. hope this helps.

I've made a simple change to all of my reverse-clicky 14500 and RCR123 Jetbeams -- replacing the black switch boot with one of the red/orange/green ones, and putting a #8 flat washer in the boot before reinstalling the switch. The light still tailstands, but you don't have to depress the boot as much for switching. I've found it makes a big difference, and nothing gets modified.
Note that a #10 washer actually fits better in the boot, but the tip of the switch fits into the washer hole -- the perfect lock out! Unfortunately, the light is then unuseable...

Import and Jeff, thanks for the tips! Jeff it sounds like yours is probably the way for me to go and I'm going to try do that in the next couple days.

The washer method seems to be the universally accepted way to improve the switch on the Mk. I'll have to sift through the interconnect section of the local hardware store next time I'm there..

Star, I'll post back after trying it, but if you get it done before me let us know how it worked.

 

[Mike V]

The switch is the worst thing about the light and lets it down a bit.

I've put a thin, flat piece of plastic inside the boot.

Someone on this forum suggested it (sorry can't remember who) and it made it a lot easier to turn on.

I'd love a better switch for this light.

 

[StarHalo]

Star, I'll post back after trying it, but if you get it done before me let us know how it worked.

Well I've got the washers, but I can't find the right tool to get the switch assembly fully apart - the plastic retaining ring comes off easily (I actually did it using a paper clip as the "tool" and pliers to rotate it), but then you have to remove the metal rear retainer which has the holes very close to the threads/walls of the endcap, so standard needle-nose pliers won't fit. I'll have to find some unique tool or pliers that have tips that are longer than the endcap, can fit in the holes soundly, and can apply a lot of torque.

 

[JeffN]

I use a snap ring pliers to remove both parts of the switch. They don't have to be good quality -- if you've got a Harbor Freight store, they can be had for a few dollars and make the job very easy.

 

[StarHalo]

Ah ha, those look like the ideal tool for the job, thanks. I'll have to visit the hardware store again tomorrow..

 

[kaichu dento]

Well I've got the washers, but I can't find the right tool to get the switch assembly fully apart - the plastic retaining ring comes off easily (I actually did it using a paper clip as the "tool" and pliers to rotate it), but then you have to remove the metal rear retainer which has the holes very close to the threads/walls of the endcap, so standard needle-nose pliers won't fit. I'll have to find some unique tool or pliers that have tips that are longer than the endcap, can fit in the holes soundly, and can apply a lot of torque.

Thanks for remembering!

I actually just took the switch out of one and am getting ready to do it to the other one. You won't believe what I used either! I saw a pair of new socks laying here and grabbed the cheap plastic hanger, which just happened to be flat instead of round.

After cutting off a piece and installing it in the rubber switch cap it works so much better!

For getting the switch parts out I used the sliver tweezers I always have on my keyring and stretched them a little until they were in both holes, then started twisting... success! If you're still reading, give it another try and let us know how it goes!

 

[StarHalo]

I visted the local Harbor Freight store, and sure enough, they had a snap ring pliers set with interchangeable heads for $2.99! AND I also picked up a digital multimeter with a battery test function, also only $2.99! I'll definitely have to keep an eye on that place, thanks for the recommendation :thumbsup:

The bad news is that the #8 washer definitely does not work in my switch assembly; it fits perfectly into the boot recess, but the center hole is just the right size to let the actual switch head through, so it just locks out. I like the idea of putting something completely solid in there, but should that fail I suppose I'll try a #6 washer next.

 

[StarHalo]

I finally came up with a good material that I could "machine" into a nice strong, flat piece that would fit into the switch boot - a guitar pick (heavy/1.14mm nylon to be exact). I just cut it down with scissors to a diameter a couple of mm smaller than the #8 washer (you can't use an object that fills the space snugly, otherwise the switch material can't compress) and stuck it in there, presto, now the switch on my Jet I is as good as the one on the Jet II :twothumbs

This is a highly recommended mod if you have the tools and a bit of patience, definitely worth the effort.