Noob Help/ Assistance with dive light.

[Racket]

I am currently looking to get started on a canister light build. I was hoping to have someone guide me on my journey.

I was considering using battery packs off of a makita 18v Lion drill set I had, where the drill melted down. The battery packs have had less than 20 charge cycles on them, and seem like a good fit for this project because they have all of the built in protection, and I already have the charger.

It seems to me like I will need to use a buck transformer to drop the voltage to less than 8V. Does this seems reasonable?

I a am going to mod a 2D mag lite to use as the light head, with a reed switch to power on, off which has been well documented so I dont need any help with this.

What I also need help with is what is everyone's opinion of the best current LED setup for this application. It seems like the technology of the led systems is ever evolving, so I'd appreciate some guidance on which one was currently the best to use for this application. I am looking for a tight, bright spotlight. I can machine a copper heat sink, if need be to cool it down.
Thanks in advance.

 

[Packhorse]

SST-90 for brute force.
XML for most efficient.
What is the amp hour rating of your battery? The voltage will have to reduced to 3.5v +- not 8v unless you are going to use a MC-E.

You should consider the W300 as a light head. Its a little smaller than a Mag but comes with a great reflector. It does require the use of a lathe though.

 

[Racket]

The batteries are rated at 3AH, and bucking it to 3.5V shouldn't be a problem.

The batteries are the ones here http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDRT70/?tag=cpf0b6-20

Is there anything that needs to be done to modify the w300 besides removing the battery tube? Do I need a new lens, and/or o'rings?

I have access to a lathe, and someone who knows how to operate it, so slight mods shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Packhorse]

With the W300 you need to make up a new pill for the LED and driver. You may even be able to reuse the existing one. I always make up new ones. You also need to make up a end for the light head to replace the battery tube. Both the pill and the end require a thread cut into them.

The W300 lens is excellent, nice and thick. The O rings can probably be reused. Although I always replace them with higher quality ones.
Check out my W300 thread in my signature line below.

 

[Racket]

Any suggestions on the buck transformer?


I really appreciate your advise.

 

[wquiles]

Any suggestions on the buck transformer?


I really appreciate your advise.

I prefer the drivers from TaskLED:
http://www.taskled.com/

You can go to the product comparison page and select a driver that fits your needs:
http://www.taskled.com/compare.html

Will

 

[350xfire]

Taskled does rock... You will pay the price for them, but they are excellent.
Also, ditch the reed and use Taskled's hall effect switch. Much more sensitive to magnetic fields.

 

[wquiles]

Taskled does rock... You will pay the price for them, but they are excellent.

+1

George (from TaskLED) designs good products, tests them very well, provides efficiency charts for this drivers, and he has developed some products for "us" here in the forums. That and the fact he is around to help answer questions/clarify usage/implementation issues, are the main reasons I rather pay a little bit more money and get something designed/built/tested/supported right here in the good old USA

Just my 2 cents.

 

[Racket]

Thnx,

Contacted them to order.

I'd like to tinker with some of the cheap ones from DX, on a UK C8 upgrade. Possibly with a bulb that doesn't heat up as much.

 

[350xfire]

Thnx,

Contacted them to order.

I'd like to tinker with some of the cheap ones from DX, on a UK C8 upgrade. Possibly with a bulb that doesn't heat up as much.

The main thing you will notice on the Chinese ones are:
1. Very limited on input voltage
2. Non-adjustable output current

 

[Klem]

+1

George (from TaskLED) designs good products, tests them very well, provides efficiency charts for this drivers, and he has developed some products for "us" here in the forums. That and the fact he is around to help answer questions/clarify usage/implementation issues, are the main reasons I rather pay a little bit more money and get something designed/built/tested/supported right here in the good old USA

...by an Aussie!:naughty:

(+1 with the thoughts on the product. Love to see slightly more robust soldering pads though)

 

[350xfire]

...by an Aussie!:naughty:

(+1 with the thoughts on the product. Love to see slightly more robust soldering pads though)

Klem, you just need one of those variable heat $400 soldering irons like wquiles uses!!! Lol

 

[DIWdiver]

Klem, you just need one of those variable heat $400 soldering irons like wquiles uses!!! Lol

You can get a decent one for $100. http://www.techni-tool.com/static-products/hakko/821SO888_Hakko_FX-888_olderingStation.html

 

[Racket]

Cool, thanks for the advise. Now I just need to wait for the slow boats from china to deliver my stuff.

I have an old uk c8 xenon light I'd like to tweak. Any suggestions on a bulb that will run cool enough inside the plastic housing. I can possible tap in a metal plug to cool it, but i'd rather not waste too much time w. it .

I was thinking about using a micro switch for the power since the power lever is all ready penetrating the housing (and I have a ton of microswitches around).