Opening a KX2 (45lm Single Stage) gone wrong...

[zelda]

Today I opened a old Cree KX2 head without before heating them up.
(With this method: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...h-glued-threads-HOWTO-without-tools-no-damage)

This came out:

Instead the bezel came off, it only opened a spacer.

Now my questions:

1. To swap the emitter should I heat the head a couple of times and than glue the spacer with locktite and give a second try for opening?

2. How can I access the driver? (The green "ring" in the picture is the PCB.)

 

[Tana]

Heat for sure... heat is your friend... whenever opening Surefire, always heat up, just in case to avoid scratches...

As for the ring... what I was doing is get a STRING, like sewing string... then wind it around the threads all around, to the height were it completely covers them... and then some more... basically you have the string that you can grab with channel lock pliers now and thanks to the cord, it wouldn't damage the threads (even if it goes thru with the teeth, it wouldn't damage them beyond usability, they would be fully operational)...

So now that you could grab that part really tight, heaten up the upper part and use rubber vise-grip to unscrew it off the central heatsink... I've opened only 4-5 of them so far but all with no damage to outer shell...

Hope it could help a little...

Oh... for string... you could use NYLON center strings from para-cord... they are tougher and will play better role at stopping channel-lock pliers getting thru it to the threads...

Driver... at that point you just carefully pull it down (all layers visible below threaded alu part on your pic), it's being held by two stiff wires bent in the middle...

 

[zelda]

Thanks for the reply, I tried it but it always touched the side of the head and the thread with the pliers
I tried different strings.

Also when heated up to 100°C, the rubber from the bycycle hose slips more one the bezel. --> I should get a real strap wrench.

I should do a adapter with a thread, who has a sidecut in the thread for holding them in a 3 jaw chuck.

 

[Tana]

Good luck... good strap rubber wrench will help you a lot once the head is heated up as regular rubber gets fluffy...

They sure are pain to open... but once done, they do make for great modding...

 

[zelda]

I cuted a ring from a aluminium pipe who fits on the thread, made a side cut and put in the 3 jaw chuck.
Tighten the chuck firmly and put some new rubber and cord on the bezel.

........Success

The Emitter is completely yellow inside, including the bond-wires, perhaps a P4-Bin.

Thanks for the help!

 

[nein166]

I just learned something, great idea using the split pipe, what LED are you upgrading to?

 

[zelda]

I will use a XR-E Emitter again, I like the good throw.

Tried other LED's like XP-E & XM-L: The result is clearly, TIR-optic is made only for the XR-E.

A Q5 or R2 with a WG-bin would be nice, like this one:
http://dx.com/p/cree-xr-e-r2-wg-emitter-on-premium-star-15943
A PCB who is thinner and with smaller diameter (16mm) is a must for the KX2-Head.

Here is a picture from the driver, the resistor (0.22Ohm) is probably for R-sense.
Lowering the R-sense value should increase the output current.

And for this one who search a strap wrench with a small, reinforced strap:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MULTI-PURPOSE-JAR-BOTTLE-OPENER-STRAP-WRENCH-OIL-FILTER-/300738877915

zelda

 

[skyfire]

i put a xp-g2 into my kx1 head, results are pretty good, noticeably brighter compared to the xr-e. beam is not as tight, but hotspot is wider and part of the spill is brighter too.
ive tried xp-g and xm-l and didnt like the results, but the xp-g2 is acceptable. i have a number of lights with the TIR+XR-E beam, and wanted something different.