Orange/Yellow 2D Industrial/Safety Flashlights

[LEDAdd1ct]

ericjohn, could you please recommend to me one 2D flashlight which meets the following criteria:

1) Reasonably sealed against rain and puddles
2) Heavy duty, tough, impact resistant plastic
3) Extremely reliable switch
4) Switch which can still be operated under slippery conditions
5) Comfortable to hold for extended periods of time

In essence, I am looking for the flashlight to own of this type.

Is the Bright Star 1618 "it" even though they may be expensive?

Or a different unit altogether?

I've noticed there are yellow 1618 lights out there marked "Continuity" tester. The hole in the bottom would obviously let water in.

There is also a black version of the 1618 with a red bezel.

Impact resistance, switch reliability, durability, operation of switch in slippery conditions:

Which is the light to own?

 

[foreman]

one of the top makers ..... pelican.

 

[LEDAdd1ct]

one of the top makers ..... pelican.

+

I have had no good experience with Pelican.

ericjohn, could you please explain?

 

[ericjohn]

+



ericjohn, could you please explain?

Well; I have owned several Pelican flashlights and they gave me nothing but trouble. I have purchased 3 Mity Lite 1900's. The first one's lamp module burnt out way too early. The second one had a gasket that kept coming out of place, making it nearly impossible to turn the head. The third one I bought for my wife's purse and it works fine (keep in mind that it is hardly ever used.) I owned a Super Sabre Lite 2000 and used it when I was an HVAC tech. It worked well for a while and came in handy in attics and under houses, but physical shock killed the bulb one day (I thought these damn things were supposed to be rugged.) I had a Mity Lite 2 AA. (I don't remember the exact model number.) It over heated and burned out the same day I bought it. I also had the diver's version of the Mity Lite 1900, but it was stolen. Finally; I had a Mity Lite 1960 LED. The pocket clip broke off and the light engine had flickering issues. Frankly; have had by behind full of Pelican and probably never will buy one again.

 

[LEDAdd1ct]

Thanks, ericjohn. With respect to this post here, what do you think?

 

[ericjohn]

ericjohn, could you please recommend to me one 2D flashlight which meets the following criteria:

1) Reasonably sealed against rain and puddles
2) Heavy duty, tough, impact resistant plastic
3) Extremely reliable switch
4) Switch which can still be operated under slippery conditions
5) Comfortable to hold for extended periods of time

In essence, I am looking for the flashlight to own of this type.

Is the Bright Star 1618 "it" even though they may be expensive?

Or a different unit altogether?

I've noticed there are yellow 1618 lights out there marked "Continuity" tester. The hole in the bottom would obviously let water in.

There is also a black version of the 1618 with a red bezel.

Impact resistance, switch reliability, durability, operation of switch in slippery conditions:

Which is the light to own?

Even if you could find a KBS 1618, I would ONLY recommend it for collection purposes. Of course you could use it for light duty applications, BUT I seriously doubt it to be waterproof.

I received a 2217 LED from KBS a few weeks back and I must say I am impressed. It is also explosion proof and probably the brightest explosion proof 2 D flashlight.

1.) If it can seal out potentially explosive gasses, so it should keep water out.
2.) High impact Polypropylene
3.) Read the earlier posts in this thread about the switch (it preforms wonderfully.)
4.) "" ""
5.) Easy to grip, but still very smooth. Also could fit into your back pocket, but won't slide out like the vintage 1618.

I hope I have been helpful.

 

[LEDAdd1ct]

That was helpful, thank you.

I will be using one of the Bright Star lights as a host for an LED mod.

Since the Bright Star 2217 incandescent has the following attributes:

1) Cheap
2) Widely available
3) Waterproof

I think it would make a very good host for an LED mod.

Two more questions:

1) Are the Bright Star flashlights with plastic switches inherently more robust/reliable than the ones with metal switches?

2) Would you choose a 2217 model with metal switch, or, the newer iteration with plastic switch?

 

[EscapeVelocity]

Ive decided to sell the Brightstar 2224 older vintage with the metal switch and ring if anyone is interested. It is the 3D model. Made in USA. Comes with box.

Pretty cool light.

 

[Motorhead]

I have taken 3 Brightstar 2D flashlights and converted them with a 4.5 amp hour Enercys cyclon D tall battery. They are fully rechargable and have a 10 year use life. I have one in my shop.

 

[LEDAdd1ct]

Interesting, cheap mod.

Google "Cyclon DT Cell (0860-0004 Tall D) Sealed Lead Acid Battery, 2V 4.5Ah" to find.

At 2.0v nominal, two in series would be 4.0v, perfect for single cell LiCo applications.

Two should fit in many 3D hosts with a simple spring mod.

Thanks for the tip!

NOTE: I prefer LiFePO4 chemistry cells, but these look like a neat, cheap alternative!

* * *

ericjohn, I meant to purchase the 2217 since you like it so much,
but I wasn't thinking clearly and bought the 2117 instead.

What are the differences?

 

[ericjohn]

ericjohn, could you please recommend to me one 2D flashlight which meets the following criteria:

1) Reasonably sealed against rain and puddles
2) Heavy duty, tough, impact resistant plastic
3) Extremely reliable switch
4) Switch which can still be operated under slippery conditions
5) Comfortable to hold for extended periods of time

In essence, I am looking for the flashlight to own of this type.

Is the Bright Star 1618 "it" even though they may be expensive?

Or a different unit altogether?

I've noticed there are yellow 1618 lights out there marked "Continuity" tester. The hole in the bottom would obviously let water in.

There is also a black version of the 1618 with a red bezel.

Impact resistance, switch reliability, durability, operation of switch in slippery conditions:

Which is the light to own?

Sorry, its been so long since I have been able to get on here.

The Bright Star 1618 is no longer made. It has been discontinued since the 1980s (maybe before that.)

The 1618 lights that you saw online are NOT actual 1618s but 2618s. They just used the wrong picture. The CT model would be EXTREMELY difficult to find as it is VERY RARE (even for the 2618.)

IF indeed you come across a 1618; keep it. I wouldn't advise to edc it, because it is really a collector's item now. HOWEVER: I have read many stories about people who used them back in the day and people have dropped them underwater and on metal/concrete. One person found a working one alongside the road while hitchhiking and said it was 35 years between the time he found it and when he was writing the post. According to all of these stories I would recommend it for all of those applications, except for slippery conditions. The 1618 is very smooth as it is and not only will it be hard to push the switch up and down but it could easily slide out of your hands. So: If you are willing to spend the time searching and the big bucks to get it, it will preform wonderfully. Try ebay because they pop up on there from time to time.

A more effective alternative would be the Bright Star 2217 or 2217 LED BUT it would be very hard to find (you could probably find them online only and they would charge you an arm and a leg to ship.) Bright Guy might have some for a reasonable shipping price.

Of course it would be much easier to go to your local hardware or grocery store and get an Eveready IN251 or Energizer 1251 (2D yellow, polypropylene industrial flashlight.) The Eveready would be your best bet, just have extra batteries and bulbs handy.

Here is the link to the aforementioned Eveready:
http://www.eveready.com/lighting-products/Pages/work-flashlights.aspx

NAPA Auto Parts and Do It Best store chains both carry these Eveready lights. Your local grocer or mom and pop store might have some too. Wal-Mart, Family Dollar and Dollar General do NOT carry these lights.

 

[ericjohn]

Interesting, cheap mod.

Google "Cyclon DT Cell (0860-0004 Tall D) Sealed Lead Acid Battery, 2V 4.5Ah" to find.

At 2.0v nominal, two in series would be 4.0v, perfect for single cell LiCo applications.

Two should fit in many 3D hosts with a simple spring mod.

Thanks for the tip!

NOTE: I prefer LiFePO4 chemistry cells, but these look like a neat, cheap alternative!

* * *

ericjohn, I meant to purchase the 2217 since you like it so much,
but I wasn't thinking clearly and bought the 2117 instead.

What are the differences?

The 2217 has a much better switch mechanism. The 2117 has the same crappy switch as the 2618. See if you can get a return.

 

[LEDAdd1ct]

Okay, thank you.

I will inquire about a return/swap.

EDIT: Thanks again. I am returning the 2117.

 

[vicv]

I have an energizer yellow 2d torch. Run with a 4 cell magstar bulb and 2s2p 14500 makes a nice bright light

 

[ericjohn]

That was helpful, thank you.

I will be using one of the Bright Star lights as a host for an LED mod.

Since the Bright Star 2217 incandescent has the following attributes:

1) Cheap
2) Widely available
3) Waterproof

I think it would make a very good host for an LED mod.

Two more questions:

1) Are the Bright Star flashlights with plastic switches inherently more robust/reliable than the ones with metal switches?

2) Would you choose a 2217 model with metal switch, or, the newer iteration with plastic switch?

Sorry I took so long to answer.

1) The 2217 LED already comes with a 40/200 Hour Cree engine
2) Only the vintage Bright Stars come with metal switches and they are getting harder and harder to find. The 2217 (specific model number) only comes with a plastic switch. I think the 2217 incandescent model is being phased out, but they are still widely available online and at some industrial suppliers. The 2217 LED is taking their place. I carries more approvals and is much brighter.

 

[ericjohn]

This is a decent time to revive this thread, because I have some important information to give:

First of all; I take back ALL of the positive statements that I have made about the Bright Star 2217 LED. I thought it was a rugged light, but one fall from ~6' killed it. The body still works, but the LED lamp is dead. I have had incandescent flashlights of the same form factor stand up to the same (and sometimes worse) use and abuse.

On a similar note:
I was able to score a Bright Star 1618 flashlight as new-old-stock off ebay from an electrical equipment dealer. It is the strangest thing because the body of the flashlight is just like the 1960s 1618, but the lens ring is that of the 2618. I am guessing this was made around 1990. This one is built like the 1960s version inasmuch as it is more rugged. The light doesn't flicker and the batteries don't shake like they do in the 2618. The switch also seems much more durable. I was trying it out and accidentally dropped it on concrete. It still worked, but the filament in the bulb was knocked out of place so the beam isn't neat and even anymore. It still gives off useful light, though. Why can't Bright Star use at least this design in their modern models. Methinks their LED lamps should be much more durable as well. I was NOT around in the 1960s and too young in the 1980s and 1990s to have actually used the 1618 when it was on the market, but I am basing my information off of several peoples' stories and experiences.