P3D RB100 actual lumen output?

jmoney16

Newly Enlightened
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Aug 30, 2007
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I've just about settled on the Fenix P3D RB100 but I've read a couple posts saying Fenix overestimates the lumen output on their lights...I'm wondering if someone could give me an idea if the specs provided by Fenix are accurate, especially the 200 lumens on turbo mode. Readings with a light meter ideal, but anything anecdotal would be welcome!
 
It's not really that Fenix overestimates lumens, it's that they quote emitter lumens, where companies like Surefire state lumens out the front of the light. Chevrofreak approximated the P3D RB100 at about 140-150 lumens, the P3D Cree P4 at 120-130, and if you mod P3D to a Q5, approx. 180!

I did some of my own testing and I arrived at the same estimations.
 
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Lumens, shmoomens. Don't worry about the numbers. If it's a reputable light and definitely brighter than other lights that are spec'd as weaker output, I'd say just enjoy it. Don't even get me started on how I feel about the whole white-wall hunting craze. :D
 
I've just about settled on the Fenix P3D RB100 but I've read a couple posts saying Fenix overestimates the lumen output on their lights...I'm wondering if someone could give me an idea if the specs provided by Fenix are accurate,

Fenix over-rates their light output by measuring the lumen output at the emitter, which is inaccurate because the light output would be diminished as it passes through the reflector, casing, lens, etc. To get the actual Lumen, one must measure the light leaving the flashlight... this is why Surefire Lights and most American lights are rated slightly lower than other lights because they measure the real lumens. But in reality, they can be just as bright. Expect the Fenix P3D RB100, to be around the same as the original in light output - that's 30% less light than claimed. :party:
My Novatac 120T rated at 120Lumens is noticably brighter than my friends L2D-CE Fenix rated at "140" lumens. :whistle:
 
here are some numbers from ProLightJapan:

P2D CE WC Q5: 506Lux = 171Torch Lumen (SF123)
P2D Rebel 100:410 Lux = 139Torch Lumen (SF123)
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P3D WC Q5: 610Lux = 206Torch Lumen (SF123x2)
P3D Rebel 100:498 Lux = 169Torch Lumen (SF123x2)
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...most American lights are rated slightly lower than other lights because they measure the real lumens. But in reality, they can be just as bright. ...

Man, I totally wish this was really true and stuff. I had this light from the store that said it was 100x brighter than this other light at the store, but it wasn't. I guess I did not buy one of the 'most' lights. Or maybe it wasn't completely made in America. Darn. Aw shucks.
 
Yep, almost every company out there , much to my dismay, advertises emitter lumens; not how many lumens actually make it out the front. Is my rebel 100 P3D 200 lumens out the front? No way! Is it a decent light? Except for the reverse clickie and thin body, yes. (Good light engine, mediocre package.)

How many lumens is it actually out the front? I'd eyeball it at 130-140ish, but I am not an integrating sphere so don't take my guess as accurate, measured or scientific, just trying to answer the question. It is not my "brightest" single emitter light, but it is top 3 (for now).

If you're looking for a surefire lumen number, buy a Surefire. I think NovaTacs also are true output. Beyond that true lumens are few and far between. :sigh:
 
Fenix over-rates their light output by measuring the lumen output at the emitter, which is inaccurate because the light output would be diminished as it passes through the reflector, casing, lens, etc.

It's not inaccurate, it's just a different way to measure the light's output.

To get the actual Lumen, one must measure the light leaving the flashlight...

To get actual lumens out the front. What is "the actual lumen"? There are lumens out the front, lumens at the emitter.

this is why Surefire Lights and most American lights are rated slightly lower than other lights because they measure the real lumens. But in reality, they can be just as bright.

Real lumens? Is there a standard for measurig lumens? Surefire lumens are just that, Surefire's lumen rating.

Expect the Fenix P3D RB100, to be around the same as the original in light output - that's 30% less light than claimed.:party:
This is mis-information. Please stop giving people mis-information. The P3D RB100 is putting out more lumens than the P3D P4. I have both, and have tested both, as have others. P3D P4 does around 120-130 lumens, P3D RB100 does around 140-150 lumens. I could notice the difference between my two P3D's. The P3D with a Q5 puts out more yet.

My Novatac 120T rated at 120Lumens is noticably brighter than my friends L2D-CE Fenix rated at "140" lumens. :whistle:

That's entirely possible. However, a P2D Q2, P2D RB100, L2D RB100, will all put out a tad more than the Novatac 120T.
 
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Yep, that's sad but true. The reality is about numbers but numbers don't tell the whole story. It's like a cheapo hi-fi sound system claiming a "3000Watt" output when in reality it's more closer to 75 watts, because it measured the peak output and not RMS. :thumbsdow

Man, I totally wish this was really true and stuff. I had this light from the store that said it was 100x brighter than this other light at the store, but it wasn't. I guess I did not buy one of the 'most' lights. Or maybe it wasn't completely made in America. Darn. Aw shucks.
 
I'd probably have to be really drunk to have the chutzpah to screw around with an expensive light and try to mod it but for kicks and giggles how hard is it to put a Q5 into the P3D? Is there a written process to follow somewhere - some sort of step by step guide?

Keeping in mind of course I have no experience in this field whatsoever...
 
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Yep, that's sad but true. The reality is about numbers but numbers don't tell the whole story. It's like a cheapo hi-fi sound system claiming a "3000Watt" output when in reality it's more closer to 75 watts, because it measured the peak output and not RMS. :thumbsdow

I think you're making to big of a deal out of this. Most of these lights will have similar loss from the reflector and the glass lens. So if you have 2 lights, and both have the same emitter, and both have the same current, and both put out 200 lumens at the emitter, and both put out 150 lumens out the front, and one company quotes 200 lumens at the emitter, and the other company quotes 150 lumens out the front, they are both right.

So if NovaTac quoted their SSC emitter as putting out 150-160 emitter lumens, you're saying that would be wrong, and inflated? When that's what it's really doing? The result of that being 120 lumens out the front.

If someone says "My Fenix L2D RB80 is 140 lumens" you can say "My Novatac does 150 lumens at the emitter" (or whatever their emitter lumens would be). If they are quoting lumens at the emitter, than you can to. It's not inflated, it's not wrong, it's just a different spec.
 
Hey guy, how difficult is a Q5 mod on a P3D? I'm thinking about taking on this little project....well, hopefully "little"

Thanks.
 
I'd probably have to be really drunk to have the chutzpah to screw around with an expensive light and try to mod it but for kicks and giggles how hard is it to put a Q5 into the P3D? Is there a written process to follow somewhere - some sort of step by step guide?

If requested, you can purchase custom modded lights directly from fenix-store. They cost a little more than doing it yourself, but with 100% less of the headache/risk. I think David is their upgrade guy, and will install 3rd party emitters into your light of choice.
 
My P2D CE (rated at 135) is pretty close to the same brightness as my 120P, using my eye. My P3D R100 is definitely brighter (and better tint) then my 120P.
 
I think you're making to big of a deal out of this. Most of these lights will have similar loss from the reflector and the glass lens. So if you have 2 lights, and both have the same emitter, and both have the same current, and both put out 200 lumens at the emitter, and both put out 150 lumens out the front, and one company quotes 200 lumens at the emitter, and the other company quotes 150 lumens out the front, they are both right.

So if NovaTac quoted their SSC emitter as putting out 150-160 emitter lumens, you're saying that would be wrong, and inflated? When that's what it's really doing? The result of that being 120 lumens out the front.

If someone says "My Fenix L2D RB80 is 140 lumens" you can say "My Novatac does 150 lumens at the emitter" (or whatever their emitter lumens would be). If they are quoting lumens at the emitter, than you can to. It's not inflated, it's not wrong, it's just a different spec.

Person 1: "Well, my car can do 124 mph!!"
Person 2: "So, my car can easily do 200 kph!!!"
 
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