PROBLEM WITH E2E AND LUMEN FACTORY IMR-E2

LEDBE
H

Hawkeye62

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jul 26, 2007
Messages
42
BULB JUST WENT OUT AND I KNEW BATTS WERE CHARGED IMR 16340'S.
BTW I'M USING THE STANDARD CLICKY TAIL CAP BUT NOT FOR MORE THAN A MINUTE AT A TIME SO AS NOT TO RUIN IT. CHECKED BULB WITH A JUMPER AND IT RAN FINE. SO NOT THE BULB. CHECKED OUT ANOTHER CLICKY AND IT DID PRETTY MUCH THE SAME. IT WORKED INTERMITTENTLY. SANDED THE BOTTOM OF THE BODY TUBE JUST TO CLEAN IT UP TO MAKE SURE THAT WAS NOT THE ISSUE. TOWARDS THE END OF ALL OF THIS I NOTICED THAT THE IMR-E2 BULB'S CONTACT POINT WITH THE BATTERY IS FLATENING OUT (NOT AS POINTED AS WHEN IT WAS NEW)
BTW THIS BULB AND BATTS ARE NEW.. IF THIS IS MY PROBLEM I'M NOT SURE HOW TO FIX THIS. SEEMS LIKE TO ME THAT THIS CONTACT POINT
SHOULD BE A LITTLE HARDER WHERE IT DOESN'T FLATEN OUT. ANY SUGGESTIONS. CONTINUITY WAS FINE ON THE TAIL CAPS , CHECKED WITH A METER.. THANKS.
 
Thanks Ampdude. I thought I had read in one of the threads that it was ok to use the z57 if you didn't use for over a couple of mins at a time.
I called Surefire and they don't make the z-52 anymore, so not real sure where to get one, but will keep looking. By the way, something I did seems to have fixed the issue because it is working fine again, for now....
 
The small gauge spring inside the clickie deforms with the amps in the setup you describe. Any Z57 will deform and have contact issues. One minute runtime is plenty for this to occur.
 
Take a beer bottle cap and drill a hole in the center that will clear the bulb tower of the lamp assembly, then use a set of tin-snips to cut away the flange around the bottle cap so you have just a flat disc of metal with a hole in the middle. Slide it over the bulb tower and re-install. It will work just fine. You could likely use just about any thin piece of metal or aluminum or whatever you can find laying around. You just need to create a small shim to get the connection to work. I've had to do this with every LF E series bulb I have run to get them to work in my particular E2E. My gut tells me, that the E series light that LF based their measurements on was probably on the opposite end of the spectrum as far as tolerances up in that head are concerned. So there are a few E series lights out there pushing the other end of the spectrum that need a small shim to work correctly. It's not "ideal" but it's a simple quick fix. If you don't have the resources to make such a shim let me know I'll send you one.

Eric

PS: The problem has nothing to do with your tail-cap, and while running a twisty is preferred, I see no problem running the stock clicker for the way most people will use this type of light.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Eric, That's a great idea, I can make one and try it out. It did act like it was a connection issue more than the tail cap problem. Thanks for offering to send me one. Had to use last night to see what dogs were barking at. Light worked fine while I was using it, good thing because what they were barking at was a striking copperhead snake. Yes, they are out already. Nice to have my lights when stuff like this comes up..... BTW My Jack Russell killed the snake and I went back to bed.....
 
computernut said:
Would leaving the switch clicked in and and using the LOTC to turn it off and off help with the life of the z57?
Click to expand...

No, it's a small wire inside of the switch assembly that is the problem. It is too small of a gauge for the 2 amp load that the IMR-E2 provides and will get hot, melt and curl up. The highest powered lamp that Surefire offers for the E2e draws just over 1 amp, so the clicky is really not designed to handle 2 amps. Luckily the Z52 has a fairly thick gauge spring and is just a solid chunk of aluminum inside, that's why it doesn't fail. The Z57 just don't work for the IMR's load. Use a twisty or a clicky that is rated for a 2 amp load. The McClicky may or may not be rated for this load, send Don McGizmo an email or message about it, I think he made that switch.

But again, the Z57 spring gauge is not a problem. In fact Surefire improved this about three years ago and now it is thicker than before and about the same as the Z52. The problem is a thin wire on the inside of the clicky mechanism which fails under the 2 amp load.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the explanation on the z57, sounds like I'm dead in the water until I can find a suitable switch that will carry the load. Wished I had known this before I bought this upgrade and I would have left it alone...
 
Hawkeye62 said:
Thanks for the explanation on the z57, sounds like I'm dead in the water until I can find a suitable switch that will carry the load. Wished I had known this before I bought this upgrade and I would have left it alone...
Click to expand...

Ampdude's suggestions to use the McClicky is a good option. I believe it is rated for 3 amps. I use one with my P91 and 2 IMR's, and it has held up. It won't work in my E2D unfortunantely, but it should be an inexpensive fix for your Z57.
 
Leukos, Thanks, I'll see if I can get a Mcclicky because I really liked using this light. It's a wall of light and really is sweet for such a small light. Needless to say the E2E is one of my favorites because of form factor. Thanks again...
 
Hi, Hawkeye62,

I probably shouldn't have made it sound as easy as I did, I believe the McClicky requires some modification to work in a Z57. I'll look for a thread...
 
You can get a McClicky-designed Aleph tailcap for ... $20 or so, for the record. I believe Lighthound has some on sale now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Fuchshp
A2 Lamps after Lumens Factory stopped selling them
Replies
5
Views
389
Monocrom
Monocrom
bigchelis
Recommendation on 30 to 50 watt Incandescent that can run on 2 IMR 18650 cells? Maglite mod or ?
Replies
11
Views
978
fivemega
fivemega
soldonsurefire
E1E & E2E Incan Question.
2
Replies
22
Views
4K
Megalamuffin
Megalamuffin
chillinn
Lumens Factory HauL
2 3
Replies
50
Views
8K
vicv
vicv
M
Need help with my old Mini Maglite
Replies
13
Views
1K
Dave_H
D

Latest posts

Top