Problem with Nyogel and thread cleaning

[Niconical]

I recently did the recommended course of action and cleaned the piston O ring on my EX10. I then applied Deoxit to it, and the piston is much smoother. That light is all fine.

At the same time I cleaned the threads at both ends of a P2D body, L1D body and L2d body, and also cleaned the head. What came off was quite dirty, a dark gray colour, but by the time I had finished everything seemed to be shiny and clean. I also cleaned the Fenix storage caps I have.

After cleaning I applied Nyogel to all threads, put the head on/off each body a few times, and all seemed well. The Nyogel is a clear looking gel, and after it was worked into the threads it was almost invisible.

Here's the problem. Shortly after that, I noticed that the threads on each body seemed that same gray colour again. Just ever-so-slightly touching one with the tip of a finger leaves a dirty mark.

So, my question is this. Does Nyogel darken in colour when used or exposed to air, or did I just not clean the things as well as I thought? Personally I thought they were clean, and I mean CLEAN, but I could be wrong.

Also, Deoxit. Many forum members have recommended it to make the piston on the EX10/D10 smoother, I did that, all fine. However, I have also seen it recommended to lube the threads as well. The Deoxit I have (regular one, red, not gold), is very liquidy, much more runny that the Nyogel. So liquidy in fact that it wouldn't even need any "working in" to the threads, just squeeze it onto the threads and it will work its own way round.

So, is Deoxit actually recommended for thread lubrication where I have previously been using Nyogel, or is it too liquidy for that and a "real" grease like Nyogel should be used?

Thank you

 

[Marduke]

Deoxit is meant to clean, not lube. Nyogel is meant to lube, not clean. Each has it's purpose.

 

[Daniel_sk]

So, my question is this. Does Nyogel darken in colour when used or exposed to air, or did I just not clean the things as well as I thought? Personally I thought they were clean, and I mean CLEAN, but I could be wrong.

I have the same problem, Nyogel turns grey after a few turns - especially on my Ra Twisty.

Here is a quote from Nyogel website:
The color of my oil/grease has darkened compared to when it was new. Is it still OK to use?
Yes, it's still OK to use. Some oils and greases contain small amounts of additives that will darken with exposure to sunlight, UV light, temperature or contact with air. The color usually changes to a brown or orange tint. Since this color change is the result of oxidation of the additives, which make up a very small portion of the oil or grease, there would be very little, if any, functional change to the lubricant.

 

[Niconical]

Ah, thanks for that.
I just had everything out on the table and was about to clean them all yet again.
I'll leave it now that I know the discolouring is normal.

 

[dixemon]

Also take into consideration that aluminum parts when worked against one another (fretting) produce a dark wear material that gets mixed into the lubricant. Its normal, you'll see it anywhere aluminum threads are used in conjunction with a lubricant.

 

[chakrawal]

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[chakrawal]

I just found out the easiest way to solve this problem. Just replace the o-ring with the red o-ring which included in the box and you will be OK.

 

[4EN[sic]]

The red oring on mine seemed to be the problem. The one at the tail end. The one in the box is the same thing isn't it? I put it on, still didn't work too good. My thought is that a guy shouldn't have to do all this tweaking just to get the light to work.

 

[mr.snakeman]

I use Finish Line(tm) Premium 100% synthetic bicycle grease. It has worked well on all 10 of my lights- on my D10 and EX10 used on the piston and o-ring gives a good feeling and seems to last well.:twothumbs

 

[shakeylegs]

I've seen the same black gritty residue shortly after re-lubing. So I tried one of the "nano" diamond lubes and have been extremely happy with the results. No grit, no mess, great lubrication. I stll use nyogel on the o-rings and everyone coexists happily.

 

[Centropolis]

I recently did the recommended course of action and cleaned the piston O ring on my EX10. I then applied Deoxit to it, and the piston is much smoother. That light is all fine.

Okay here comes a newbie question......I've never taken apart any of my flashlights beyond the tailcap to replace a rubber switch. Where is the piston oring? I assume it is not the same oring as the one that is on the head when I unscrew the EX10 to replace a battery.

I also have the hard switch problem...want to lube it with Nyogel.

 

[Marduke]

Okay here comes a newbie question......I've never taken apart any of my flashlights beyond the tailcap to replace a rubber switch. Where is the piston oring? I assume it is not the same oring as the one that is on the head when I unscrew the EX10 to replace a battery.

I also have the hard switch problem...want to lube it with Nyogel.

The piston will slide out of the body.

 

[brucec]

I use Finish Line(tm) Premium 100% synthetic bicycle grease. It has worked well on all 10 of my lights- on my D10 and EX10 used on the piston and o-ring gives a good feeling and seems to last well.:twothumbs

I use the same thing. And evidently it is good to sub-freezing temperatures.

 

[Centropolis]

The piston will slide out of the body.

Okay so I unscrew the two apart and then reach inside the body and pull out the piston correct? Then there is an oring in there and I lube it.

 

[chakrawal]

Okay so I unscrew the two apart and then reach inside the body and pull out the piston correct? Then there is an oring in there and I lube it.

I replaced that o-ring with the red o-ring and its works fine now.

 

[Ritch]

I did the same procedure as I do with every new flashlight. I cleaned all inner parts (o-rings, threads, piston and tube) with a cotton cloth. Then a few drops of lube for the o-rings and the thread. I'm using Nyogel 760G, it's not too fluidly and not too tenaciously.

> richard

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Re dirty threads. Got to remember that current is flowing through the threads and that dirty look is mostly the result of residue left by the current flowing from the the threads of the body and the threads of the tailswitch. Sort of like sparking between the two contact surfaces. The lube is taking the current too and breaking down.

This would not pertain to those lights that do not have current flowing through the body/threads of the light, such as McGizmo's PD based lights, and I would assume the Ex10.

Bill

 

[LA OZ]

I have the same problem, Nyogel turns grey after a few turns - especially on my Ra Twisty.

Here is a quote from Nyogel website:
The color of my oil/grease has darkened compared to when it was new. Is it still OK to use?
Yes, it's still OK to use. Some oils and greases contain small amounts of additives that will darken with exposure to sunlight, UV light, temperature or contact with air. The color usually changes to a brown or orange tint. Since this color change is the result of oxidation of the additives, which make up a very small portion of the oil or grease, there would be very little, if any, functional change to the lubricant.

Ok, why don't you mix the Nyogel and Doxit together. The deoxit will protect the nyogel from oxidation and hence maintains the clear colour.

 

[Tekno_Cowboy]

Fun, another of the "one a day" lube threads
For my 2 cents worth, any quality lube will work well. I have had good luck myself with Mobil 1, nano-oil, Magnalube-G, and generic silicone grease. I would like to try a slightly "runnier" silicone lube, somewhere around a 90W-125W viscosity. If anyone knows where I can find one, let me know

 

[mwaldron]

Fun, another of the "one a day" lube threads
For my 2 cents worth, any quality lube will work well. I have had good luck myself with Mobil 1, nano-oil, Magnalube-G, and generic silicone grease. I would like to try a slightly "runnier" silicone lube, somewhere around a 90W-125W viscosity. If anyone knows where I can find one, let me know

Check out RC Car stores. I have a small bottle of LRP silicone lube that's about 90W, maybe a bit less viscous.