Barbarin
Flashlight Enthusiast
The purpose of this thread is to have your input for the development of a headlamp, and at the same time to keep you informed of the steps taken.
Let's imagine you have an appointment in hell, and of course there is no daylight at all. You are going to need a headlamp reliable, waterproof, capable of working under extreme temperatures (-30 ºC to +90º C), designed to stand every impact and bright enough to illuminate all that darkness and dangers in front of you. Can you imagine a worse place to be left in the dark?
The name of the headlamp is "Hellmeet", a kind of word game as this headlamp will be used very often on a helmet.
I have been making my own headlamps during years, and thanks to that I have some conclusions I would like to share:
1. Cables are to be avoided. You always have time enough to change a battery so I prefer to take care 1 minute each three hours to replace the batteries than being all the time taken care of the cable.
2. One single LuxIII (80 lm) fitted with the proper reflector was more than enough to beat the performance of carbide lamps. While resting, cooking or whatever, 5 lm is more than enough for most of the tasks.
3. The desirable corona is 120º. More than that will put light in places in which you in fact can't see it, so wasting light and energy.
Those graphics are on Spanish, but I think you can understand them easily. If not I will translate.
4. The desirable spot is around 10º. A diffuse spot is important as long as we need more light in our central vision field. This central vision is much more accurate than peripheral, but in exchange it needs more light. That is the reason I don't like "pure flood" lights as personal lights, exception made of photography/video or very close tasks.
5. 2 XCR123/ 1x Li-ION 18650 is the perfect combination. The performance of lithium chemistries is superior to any other. While Li-ION is the rechargeable-constant use option, CR123's are perfect as back-ups, or the option for remote places. At the end, if you take your time and money to plan a caving expedition in Africa or a expedition in Antarctica you will take care of having enough batteries with you, and you won't trust on the remote hypothetical gas station to supply you. The cost of the batteries is like 0,5% of the expenses… cutting it to the third by using AA's won't mean more than 0,33% in the total. And you will be paying poor performances.
6. Output levels. You want to spend your valuable photons when you need them, and you don't want to blind your colleagues while having a coffee, so we need at least two, more preferably three. Strobes and so on can be useful, but not at the expense of complicating things or making them less reliable. Remember, if things are difficult in surface and having no stress… what would happen down there when you are on a real dangerous situation??
Let's imagine you have an appointment in hell, and of course there is no daylight at all. You are going to need a headlamp reliable, waterproof, capable of working under extreme temperatures (-30 ºC to +90º C), designed to stand every impact and bright enough to illuminate all that darkness and dangers in front of you. Can you imagine a worse place to be left in the dark?
The name of the headlamp is "Hellmeet", a kind of word game as this headlamp will be used very often on a helmet.
I have been making my own headlamps during years, and thanks to that I have some conclusions I would like to share:
1. Cables are to be avoided. You always have time enough to change a battery so I prefer to take care 1 minute each three hours to replace the batteries than being all the time taken care of the cable.
2. One single LuxIII (80 lm) fitted with the proper reflector was more than enough to beat the performance of carbide lamps. While resting, cooking or whatever, 5 lm is more than enough for most of the tasks.
3. The desirable corona is 120º. More than that will put light in places in which you in fact can't see it, so wasting light and energy.
Those graphics are on Spanish, but I think you can understand them easily. If not I will translate.
4. The desirable spot is around 10º. A diffuse spot is important as long as we need more light in our central vision field. This central vision is much more accurate than peripheral, but in exchange it needs more light. That is the reason I don't like "pure flood" lights as personal lights, exception made of photography/video or very close tasks.
5. 2 XCR123/ 1x Li-ION 18650 is the perfect combination. The performance of lithium chemistries is superior to any other. While Li-ION is the rechargeable-constant use option, CR123's are perfect as back-ups, or the option for remote places. At the end, if you take your time and money to plan a caving expedition in Africa or a expedition in Antarctica you will take care of having enough batteries with you, and you won't trust on the remote hypothetical gas station to supply you. The cost of the batteries is like 0,5% of the expenses… cutting it to the third by using AA's won't mean more than 0,33% in the total. And you will be paying poor performances.
6. Output levels. You want to spend your valuable photons when you need them, and you don't want to blind your colleagues while having a coffee, so we need at least two, more preferably three. Strobes and so on can be useful, but not at the expense of complicating things or making them less reliable. Remember, if things are difficult in surface and having no stress… what would happen down there when you are on a real dangerous situation??
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