Prometheus Lights: AAA Beta-QR LIVE on Kickstarter

[stevenkelby]

10440 is all I use in my copper. Loses the moonlight low but runs fine on high, doesn't get super hot.

 

[ThirstyTurtle]

10440 is all I use in my copper. Loses the moonlight low but runs fine on high, doesn't get super hot.

Thanks! I'm gunna try it!

 

[stevenkelby]

No worries, it's a great light

 

[ThirstyTurtle]

No worries, it's a great light

O no! My Trustfire 10440s are too long! Can't tighten it enough to get it to activate. Guess I'll order some Efest 10440s...do they come in button top or just flat top? Want to make sure I order the same ones you have so I know they'll fit.

BTW_I have a QRv2, think that matters for fitment?

 

[stevenkelby]

Mine is one of the first, from the first kickstarter.

I use efest imr 10440, they are flat top and 44mm overall length.

From catching the first thread, it takes 3 and a 1/4 turns to activate.

Not sure if QRv2 is different, maybe. Ask him maybe?

 

[ThirstyTurtle]

Mine takes between 3.25 and 3.5 turns to activate. My Trustfire cells are probably 3-5mm longer than my Eneloops which measure exactly 44mm from flat negative to top of positive button. Based on that, I think the Efests should work fine.

My 10440s are more like 10500s haha.

 

[Str8stroke]

Maybe you could file the button top down some? Not sure just a idea.

 

[ThirstyTurtle]

Maybe you could file the button top down some? Not sure just a idea.

Thought about that but they're flat top cells so there's really no way to shorten them. Not sure why they're so long, pretty dumb. They work fine in my iTP A3's though which is funny because the Beta is much longer.

 

[Dingle1911]

What is the advantages of the 10440 over the eneloop? Brighter high?

 

[ThirstyTurtle]

What is the advantages of the 10440 over the eneloop? Brighter high?

Yes, all three modes are brighter. Low is probably 40-60 lumens and high is probably around 300 lumens (compared to my SC62w @ 300 lumens, QR may be a bit brighter actually). Manages heat quite well on high in the copper version. I'll be running mine on 10440 as I like the higher high and the stock "moonlight" is WAY too bright IMO, I'd much rather ~0.05 lumens so I won't miss it.

 

[ThirstyTurtle]

Got my Efest IMR 10440 cells today, they kick a lot harder than my Trustfire cells.

Lux readings from ceiling bounce using phone:
Zebralight SC62w @ 600 lumens: 60 lux
Zebralight SC62w @ 300 lumens: 30 lux
Beta QRv2 on Trustfire: 35 lux
Beta QRv2 on Efest IMR: 48 lux

Therefore I'm estimating ~400 lumens out of the Nichia 219b...IMPRESSIVE!

I can't believe how well this thing handles the heat on high. Love love love this light on the Efest cells. Plus the twist action is SO much smoother with these cells and since I lubed the threads.

 

[ThirstyTurtle]

I'm surprised and elated at how quickly and elegantly my Copper QR has formed a patina:

It looks very aged and worn but in an awesome way. I especially like how the concave parts of the grip have gotten extra dark compared to the flat surfaces; makes for an excellent contrast.

 

[Str8stroke]

Looks great for sure!! One of my all time fav copper lights. If you want to speed up the process or add some extra flair? Mix up some salt & vinegar and let it set on it a few hours. You can get some real nice corrosion. Or hang it in a jar above some ammonia. The fumes make it look neat. Or do both! Makes for a neat looks on copper. Especially this light which seems to be made of some really pure copper.

 

[ThirstyTurtle]

Looks great for sure!! One of my all time fav copper lights. If you want to speed up the process or add some extra flair? Mix up some salt & vinegar and let it set on it a few hours. You can get some real nice corrosion. Or hang it in a jar above some ammonia. The fumes make it look neat. Or do both! Makes for a neat looks on copper. Especially this light which seems to be made of some really pure copper.

Thanks! Any pics or of examples of what that process of produces?

 

[Str8stroke]

Sure here ya go.

About 3 hours of salt & vinegar mix. Then rinsed it down and wiped it off. The AA hasn't had any treatment and is a few months older. The treated AAA started out almost new with a shine. If I left it longer it would have had a much deeper patina.

 

[Str8stroke]

I was just looking and found this pic. You can see the original color from earlier that day prior to doing the treatment. Never mind the heads, that is some AAA head swapping fun I was having. Yes the Beta head fits and works on a Maratac. And Fenix LD02 head works on the Beta! More on that if anyone wishes.

 

[Benjamin227]

And Fenix LD02 head works on the Beta! More on that if anyone wishes.

Thanks for that bit about the LD02 Str8stroke! I just received my Cu BetaV2 and Happen to already have an LD02. So I got to experimenting...not to steal your thunder Str8stroke, but the since the results are so positive I can't help but go ahead and share my findings.

I've only fiddled with the two lights for a few minutes, but it does appear that the heads are more-or-less completely interchangeable mechanically, and both the LD02/Beta and Beta/LD02 head/body combos each work just as you might expect. My impression is that water resistance also remains intact on both as well.

This is great news for those like me who like the idea of a AAA-powered clicky light, but are less-than-thrilled with the LD02's M-L-H output level sequence and lack of moonlight mode. And while the LD02's stock NW emitter is perfectly nice, the Nichia in the Beta head is IMHO much nicer.

Behold, the "CuLD02"!

(NB--This is the first time I have attempted to include an image in a CPF post. I did search and cannot seem to find up-to-date instructions (I found a thread with lots of broken links to "Imageshack" but couldn't make sense of it), so I probably have not done it correctly. Hopefully you can see a flashlight that looks a lot like a Duracell battery, but if the image does not appear and anyone out there can help me understand how to fix that, please let me know )

 

[Benjamin227]

Just had a thought which might put the kibosh on the LD02/CuBeta mix-and-match.

Is there significant potential for the Aluminum LD02 parts and the Copper BetaQR parts to interact in some corrosive manner (galvanic action or the like?)

Would appreciate if anyone with knowledge on this could chime in. Thanks in advance.

 

[Str8stroke]

Ben, that is a possibility, especially if you alot of moisture, that is why I use Dielectric grease (basically Nyogel) as my lube on these. Same stuff we use in Ham radio for all our connectors to "help" corrosion from happening. I use the Permatex Tune Up Grease. It works great.

 

[light-modder]

Permatex Tune Up... Can that be found at Walmart in the automotive section with the other Permatex products? Or is it something that has to be ordered?