Questions for those who wrap their P60 drop-ins with foil

[Bimmerboy]

Do you feel a noticeable difference in temperature as opposed to without any foil? How about time frame?... Does the head and/or body of your light get warm more quickly?

These questions could pertain to any P60 drop-in in any compatible light, but more specifically, I'm curious about the possible heatsinking improvement with a Dereelight 3SM in a SF 9P.

I'm being slightly lazy by not trying it myself, but then I'd have to get it out of the car, wait until it gets to room temp, etc. Wanted to hear others' experiences first before deciding to give it a try or not.

While we're at it, what are some of thechniques used to do the wrapping? Any tips?

 

[metlarules]

I cut the aluminum foil to the length of the drop-in. I then wrap the drop in 2 times. Insert the drop in into the light. It should be a semi tight fit.Then slowly pull the drop in back out and the wrapping should stay in the tube. I generally do this 2 or 3 times to get a tight fit. The body of the light gets considerably warmer than without the aluminum foil which tell me the wrap is working fine.

 

[Bimmerboy]

Thanks, Metlarules! You inspired me to get off my butt, and do this. :thumbsup:

I just got done wrapping my 3SM. Though I haven't tested heat transfer either before, or after, I do feel confident that it has to be improved.

Before wrapping, the drop-in was loose enough to wiggle around on it's own with the bezel off. Can't be much metal to metal contact going on there! Likely only the tiny bit of contact area on the bottom around the base where it contacts the ledge inside the 9P, and a tiny area at the top of the reflector where it meets the bezel. Here's what I did:

First, the Dereelight sticker wasn't going to help things, so off it came. Next, noticing the fair amount of taper to the brass pill, I cut the foil long enough to triple fold it around the brass, making a three to one ratio between that thickness, and what went around the reflector. I did about a four turn wrap, which was too thick to allow the drop-in into the tube, then cut off a little at a time until it would snugly slide in. It felt snug around the reflector, but I didn't feel enough resistance to pressure when the drop-in bottomed (could also describe it as not feeling the foil mold to the tube). Figuring that tapered area was not being filled, I proceeded to wrap another thin stip only around the brass a couple times, and now felt a bit of compression molding happen near the bottom when pushing the drop-in all the way down. There should now be nice contact between the 3SM and 9P body from top to bottom. At the very least, it's got to be an improvement!

As a side note, though I got the foil right to the lower edge of the brass, I made sure it did not interfere with direct contact between the bottom, and the ledge it sits on inside the body.

I definitely feel better after doing this, as the emitter is driven at 1.2A. Now, it may not be neccessary with my Malkoff's, but I may wind up giving them the treatment as well. As long as it doesn't interfere with proper functioning, anything that helps get the heat out can only be a good thing.

 

[beach honda]

Anyone have pictures of this process?

thx

-cB

 

[tolkaze]

semi-relevant:

I have noticed that there is a fairly decent sized void between an M60 module and the MD2 body. I wrapped a bit of foil around the dropin, installed it, then proceeded to stuff more foil in and around the dropin using a small pair of pliers. When i had a very tight fit, I installed the retaining ring, fired it up and waited for it to get warm. Then I took out all the stuffing and tested again.

Contrary to what I thought, the non-foiled test got hotter faster, so one of two things is happening. Either the foil is dissipating the heat more evenly across the head and hence it only feels slightly warm, or the foil has a slight insulating effect.

I would like to think that the dissipation across the whole head and down the body is more likely than a thin bit of metal right where it contacts getting HOT, but I can't really prove total heat loss over time easily.

Also doesn't help that the M60 doesn't really heat up that much anyway. I will retry this test when I can get my hands on something hot like and MCE or P7 dropin... they tend to heat up very quickly.

 

[beach honda]

thanks for the contribution brother!

-cB

 

[kramer5150]

I just cut about 6-7 inches of 1/2 strip copper and wrap it around the module reflector. I add layers until its tight. The copper is very soft and flexible, it will form an air tight seal inside the host. I do not know if it makes a difference, I have never measured my lights with and without.

I also replace the center + spring with brass bar stock. I have had conductivity issues with the small spring included on most.

 

[Norm]

Improving heat sinking on P60 style drop ins.
Unfortunately there were a lot of excellent posts lost in the crash, one from a member who had proved conclusively using an infrared camera that it did make a worthwhile improvement.
Norm

 

[Skylumen]

This is a must for all P60 drop in light!