Quickchange systems for mill

[KC2IXE]

Ok, it's getting to the point where I HAVE to do SOMETHING.

As you guys know, I have a Burke Millright - not a bad mid sized mill, with an R-8 collet, but I need SOMETHING quick change

Unfortunately, the Mach-1 system WON'T work, as the spindle on the millright extends above the head when in the "up" position

Anyone have any experience with the other systems out there?

 

[cmacclel]

I'm very happy with my Kwik Switch 200 setup. They sell the R8 Master I know this because I thought about converting my Mach 1 System machine over to the Kwick Switch (If I keep it).

Mac

 

[KC2IXE]

I'm thinking of doing what Eric is doing - a bunch of straight shank ER-32 (or should I go 40?) holders and collets etc - Possibly even modding them to be a Tormech style "index against the spindle" type system.

Yeah, it's NOT going to be a "run a big facemill" rigid system, but then again, I can drop the whole collet out, and run a pure R-8 for that

What do folks think of that idea?

 

[wquiles]

Here is some discussion on the topic:

http://www.jeffalbro.net/cnc/quick-change/

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=21531

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3904

Note that even Royal states these are only good for light loads where the quick tool change is more important than ultimate rigidity:
http://www.royalprod.com/product.cfm?catID=11

 

[KC2IXE]

I've seen that thread - sigh.

Of course the fun issue is - How DOES one do quick change reasobable on a Non Bridgeport R-8 mill

Yeah, they are NEVER going to be Cat40-50 machines - heck, they aren't NMTB30 (which my mill had available 'back when' - might try and keep my eyes open)

Thing is, what one person calls "light" milling, another person might call "Oh My G-d", so the comment about "keep it light" is SO non specific

I'm FAIRLY sure what I was doing yesterday falls in Forest Addy's 'light' category - facing off the ends of some 5/8 6061 sqare stock - big whopping cuts of 1/16" or so

Thing is, then I have to
Center Drill, Drill, Counterbore 1 side, flip, countersink the other

for oh, 72 holes (6 holes/part, 12 identical parts)

You can probably see why I want to be able to quick change with that

The question them becomes - Let's say one other "common" job I do

Unknown alloy mild steel (I don't know exactly what they are using, but seems to be somthing like 1018 or the like)

1/4" end mill - mill a pocket .75x.75x.525 deep

Right now, I use an R-8 setup, plunge in near a corner, step, and repeat, then finish the pocket, with the final passes being full depth, but only gutting about .030 or so, always conventional milling

 

[unterhausen]

my bridgeport is NMTB30 and has a solid quill, so no toolchanger for me

 

[precisionworks]

Tool changes are pretty fast if you use an ER-40 collet chuck in the R-8 taper. Changing out the collet chuck for a keyless drill chuck takes just a few seconds if you use a 3/8" air impact to loosen & tighten the drawbar nut - pretty much the redneck adaptation of a Bridgeport power drawbar. I haven't used a drawbar wrench in years

 

[KC2IXE]

As I said, the drawbar setup in the Millrite is enough different to preclude a LOT of things

I decided to order a set of ER32s anyway, as I really DO need a set anyway, and ordered 3 holders, and we'll see how things go from there

 

[Bruceter]

I had a quick thought that may save a step. What size is the hole that you are center drilling, drilling and counter-boring? Is it of a size that you could get away with using a stub length split point drill and not center drilling it? That would be one less tool to change.

Bruceter

 

[KC2IXE]

did that, but it's still a LOT of tool changes - you see that type of pattern so often - move the the right spot, center drill, drill, and then either countersink (usually do THAT 1st if I can, with the centerdrill), counterbore, tap, whatever. anyway - common to see 3 tools in the same spot