RaClicky Tailcap Tightening Question...

Dennis

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jan 6, 2001
Messages
171
So my well used EDC RaClicky button occasionally becomes "mushy", but tightening the tailcap fixes that. However, there is a lot of resistance and I am always worried I am doing something I shouldn't be doing, especially since the manual says not to disassemble this part.

Am I doing something wrong? Is there a better fix for this?

Thanks!

Dennis.
 
Hi Dennis,

I'm not sure about yours. Mine are fairly new- about 5 months- and used but not "mushy". On both of my Clicky models the tail caps are tight. Often Henry refers to "stiction" in his posts in regards to the o-rings, especially after they sit for a while. They become quite tight. You could remove the o-ring and see if the cap then goes on easily. This would indicate a sticky o-ring, which as far as I know is normal. You may also be removing some of the "mush" by trapping air in the cap/under the button, which is also due to the tight o-ring. I'd also check for lubrication while you have it off. I'll try to find a "stiction" reference post for you.

Christian
 
Here you go Dennis,

Not exactly discussing your specific case but talks about the o-ring anyway.

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Re: How Many Can Twist their (RA) Twisty one Handed?
Abarth_1200,

The Twisty was never intended to allow single-handed operation. Although the human hand is very dexterous, holding on to the light with the pinky, ring and middle fingers curled around the battery compartment while rotating the head with the thumb and index finger cannot easily generate a lot of torque.

There are two cases to consider. The first case is immediately following any operation of the light - i.e., twisting to change levels. In this case, the O-ring is well lubricated and there is relatively low stiction. This case requires the lowest torque to rotate the parts.

The second case is after you have allowed the light to sit for an extended period of say 12 hours or longer. The grease is squeezed out from under the O-ring and thus there is very little lubrication under the O-ring. The stiction is very high - many times higher than in the first case. Once the parts have been exercised, the O-ring becomes well lubricated again and you return to the first case.

Given the above, what can be done to reduce the torque? There are several things. O-rings, like everything else, have tolerances. Swapping O-rings may help. Or going to one or two sizes smaller ID will stretch the O-ring slightly, making it smaller in diameter. The normal size is 1.5 by 20.5mm. A 5% stretch is acceptable. So going down to a 1.5 by 19.5 is allowable.

We cannot recommend removing the O-ring because it removes the water seal. However, if you do remove the O-ring and use plenty of grease on the threads, the grease will seal the threads and make the light rain resistant. And you may find the light works nicely with one hand.

We have also tested Krytox. In testing it reduced the stiction with the O-ring dramatically - especially after the 12 hour no movement test. But at $20/oz, it is a bit on the expensive side.

Henry.
 
I guess my main question is whether or not it is OK to even be tightening down the tailcap on the RaClicky since the manual states that you should not disassemble this part. I keep thinking I am going to turn too much and break some internal connector or something...

Thanks for the info!

Dennis.
 
Sorry about the too much info! :D

I've taken mine off quite a few times and I just snug it back down. I realize it says that in the manual so take it for what it's worth! I don't think you'll hurt it unless you really go to town when tightening it!
 
No such thing as too much info to me! Always good to know as much as possible about my beloved flashlights!

I started unscrewing my RaClicky tailcap more and started hearing "threadlocker", maybe... do you remember this from yours?

Thanks,

Dennis.
 
I agree! I just unscrewed both of my tailcaps to see......on the 170 with the newer switch and raised/tactical button, and the 120 with the flush/older style. I didn't hear anything unusual and frankly don't remember the first time I did so either.

When you say hearing thread locker possibly...........are you hearing a "crunch" of dried thread lock you're thinking? I just unscrewed them up against my ear and I don't hear anything- smooth threads, maybe a little grit but nothing out of the ordinary. They are definitely stiff though.

Christian.
 
Dennis,

Before trying to unscrew the switch cap, check to see if your switch cap has 4 tiny holes evenly spaced around the circumference near the battery compartment. If so, do not twist the switch cap - it is not designed to be removed - and you can damage it if you try.

If the switch cap has no small holes around the circumference, it can safely be unscrewed.

Henry.
 
Oh man Dennis! Mine don't have these holes so hopefully I wasn't misleading you.:(

Dennis,

Before trying to unscrew the switch cap, check to see if your switch cap has 4 tiny holes evenly spaced around the circumference near the battery compartment. If so, do not twist the switch cap - it is not designed to be removed - and you can damage it if you try.

If the switch cap has no small holes around the circumference, it can safely be unscrewed.

Henry.
 
Yup, mine has the holes. Luckily it still works fine, but it does get loose and require tightening to fix a mushy button occasionally, I hope this is still OK.

Dennis.
 
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