Recommendations: $50 2xAA Powered Contenders

[mangust]

I know it's yet another this vs. that thread. However, after following this fantastic forum for a few weeks, I want to get your opinions. My experience with good flashlights is limited to Inova X5 I got a few years ago, and a recently acquired Leatherman Serac S2.
What I am interested in is a reliable, reasonably tough 2xAA light. It needs to be bright enough to see things in the distance like 100 feet (30m), yet has a low mode for a long runtime and close-up work. The light's primary purpose would be a general use around the house or outside walks. Ability to mount it on a bike would be beneficial. Inova X5 would be my toughness reference. The Inova has seen its share of drops without any ill effects. So, I'd like the light than can survive a three-plus foot (1m+) drop on a hard surface.

I am no longer interested in budget lights. I'd rather have one light that works, than several fantastic-performing lights that may fail at any moment. If anything, I'll get Fenix E01 for a back-up.
So, with that in mind I set my budget at $50. Here are the contenders.

Fenix Digital L2D CE
Pros:
-Under budget
-Accessories included
-Lifetime Warranty
Cons:
-Older emitter
-Prone to rolling

Fenix Digital LD20
Pros:
-Q5 emitter
-Accessories included
- Lifetime Warranty
-Antiroll design

Cons:
-Over budget

Fenix L2T v2.0
Pros:
-Accessories included
- Lifetime Warranty
-Tougher than L2D and LD20?

Cons:
-Older emitter
-Prone to rolling

Fenix TK20
Pros:
-Accessories included
-Lifetime Warranty
-Tough design
-Natural color beam

Cons:
-Older emitter
-Over budget

EagleTac P100A2
Pros:
-XP-E Q5 emitter
-Accessories included
-Antiroll
Cons:
-No low mode
-Accessories are not included
-Unsure about reliability: multiple reports of off-center emitter, earlier issues with P10A2, etc.

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

 

[LEDAdd1ct]

What qualifications are you using to distinguish older from newer emitters? Are you using XP-E vs. XR-E, or bins, or...?

 

[Marduke]

Don't forget 4sevens and fenix-store have an additional 8% off using the CPF coupon.

Also, the TK20 does NOT use an older emitter. The tint is warm, and the Q2-5A is a very modern emitter top of it's class.

Actually, all the XR-E lights are not really "older" emitters. The small difference between bins is indistinguishable in actual use.

 

[NotSoBrightBob]

Also there are some L2D's out there with a Q5. The roll issue remains but I think they are cheaper than the newer LD20 so may hit your budget.

 

[mangust]

What qualifications are you using to distinguish older from newer emitters? Are you using XP-E vs. XR-E, or bins, or...?

Well, it's my newbie talk. I am really referring to different bins, that is Q5 is better than Q2. From what I understand, the real-world differences are minor.

 

[Marduke]

Well, it's my newbie talk. I am really referring to different bins, that is Q5 is better than Q2. I do realize that real-world differences are minor.

But you are also comparing different TINT bins. TK20 is Q2-5A, where the others are Q5-WC (most commonly) or WG or WD (less commonly)

 

[mangust]

But you are also comparing different TINT bins. TK20 is Q2-5A, where the others are Q5-WC (most commonly) or WG or WD (less commonly)

There is so much more to learn, so little time
I guess what I was trying to relay is that Q5 is the brightest, yet most efficient. While Q2-5A has the more natural color compared to others. Feel free to correct any of my misconceptions.

 

[StarHalo]

The LD20 or its immediate predecessor the L2D Q5 will probably be your winner, but it should be noted that either of these are just over $60 - once you get into the ~$60 range, you can include the Nitecore D20 (https://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=93&products_id=550) and the JetBeam Jet I EX (http://www.bugoutgearusa.com/jetiproexv2.html); these have a sizeable advantage over the Fenix lights thanks to their infinitely variable output interfaces, namely a much lower minimum and more precise "dialing in" of how much light you want for your situation, which can dramatically improve your runtime.

Interface is a matter of taste, so if all you want are the basic preset modes of the Fenix, go that route. But if you've got some technological savvy and want to see what's beyond that, JetBeam and Nitecore definitely take it to the next level..

 

[HKJ]

My favorite no-nonsens 2xAA light is the Fenix TK20, if I want something a bit less heavy, the L2D (or LD20) is also very good (I have used the L2D on my bicycle for some time, running it on turbo all the time).

For more flexible lights the NiteCore, ITP and JetBeam are fine light, personnaly I like the Jetbeam IPS interface.

 

[BRO]

I have both the LD20 and the P100a2 and I EDC a LD10. Of the two using 2 AA's the P100a2 is brighter (bigger head as well) but I perfer the LD20 because the lowest setting normally is all I need and it is softer on the eyes.
Plus my LD10 and Ld20 combo provides me plenty of back up in case of failure. Fenix also provides flashlight sheaths which makes it a lot easier to carry when dealing with two AA's. And the run times are a lot better with the LD20 over the P100a2. But that P100a2 is real bright on the highest mode and you can really see the difference. No real bad choices between these two. Good Luck!

 

[vali]

Im too with the LD20 recommendation. For normal use I think its bright enough and its "low" mode has a great runtime. In fact I use mine almost always in low.

I dont think the TK20 is a multi porpouse light. Its too throwy for close range and the runtime is worse (compared with LD20 or Nitecore D20, but will blow away the usual incan ones).

 

[mangust]

The LD20 or its immediate predecessor the L2D Q5 will probably be your winner, but it should be noted that either of these are just over $60 - once you get into the ~$60 range, you can include the Nitecore D20 (https://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=93&products_id=550) and the JetBeam Jet I EX (http://www.bugoutgearusa.com/jetiproexv2.html); these have a sizeable advantage over the Fenix lights thanks to their infinitely variable output interfaces, namely a much lower minimum and more precise "dialing in" of how much light you want for your situation, which can dramatically improve your runtime.

Interface is a matter of taste, so if all you want are the basic preset modes of the Fenix, go that route. But if you've got some technological savvy and want to see what's beyond that, JetBeam and Nitecore definitely take it to the next level..

Personally I'd love to have the adjustable interface. However, the plan is to have the light available for use to anyone in the family; therefore, I am favoring presets for ease of use.

 

[mangust]

My favorite no-nonsens 2xAA light is the Fenix TK20, if I want something a bit less heavy, the L2D (or LD20) is also very good (I have used the L2D on my bicycle for some time, running it on turbo all the time).

For more flexible lights the NiteCore, ITP and JetBeam are fine light, personnaly I like the Jetbeam IPS interface.

Thank you for this great visual side-by-side!

 

[mangust]

So far LD20 looks to be most popular. Is it worth the $20 premium over the L2D-CE?

 

[KnOeFz]

I'm surprised the Icon Rogue 2 hasn't been mentioned here yet?
Good review:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=220987

 

[jblackwood]

I absolutely love my LD20 so even though it's over your budget, that's my vote. Please keep in mind I don't have experience with either the lights you mentioned or those others have brought up (Nightcore D20) but I also love my D10's, one of which I EDC.

Have you considered a Fenix E20? It's only 109 lumens but if non flashaholics are going to using this light, there's only one setting (and it's under budget by a bit). If you get it from 4sevens, the lifetime warranty still applies as well as the 8% discount.

 

[StarHalo]

Personally I'd love to have the adjustable interface. However, the plan is to have the light available for use to anyone in the family

If this is the case, you may want to keep it as simple as possible; most non-flashaholic people when stumbling around in the dark don't know to do anything more than twist the head or push a button until the light comes on.. You might consider getting an inexpensive and very straightforward light for family use, then getting a second, more sophisticated light for yourself. The pictured-above Fenix E20 or a MiniMag with a TerraLUX drop-in are only ~$30 each, and don't have any features (aside from a lot of output) that would surprise a layperson. Then on to the really fun light for yourself :thumbsup:

 

[MichaelW]

Ideally the Fenix TK20 should use the Q3 instead of Q2.
but it is a good outdoors light. warm-neutral white.

xr-e, xr-c, xp-e, xp-c?

 

[Mjolnir]

The eagletac is probably the best light for its price. Eagletac does have a lifetime warranty as well, and there customer support is pretty easy to reach.

The issues with the P10A2 will not happen in the P100A2. The lens will not break like in the P10A2, since it is actually contained in the head and mounted differently. The only other issue with the P10A2 was the reverse polarity spacers, which tended to fall out (which doesn't affect the functioning of the light at all). The P100A2 has a different spacer which should not fall out.
The Icon Rogue has a somewhat strange brightness dimming feature which you probably don't want to have to deal with. It is also less bright than many of the other lights mentioned (especially the P100A2).

 

[Marduke]

Ideally the Fenix TK20 should use the Q3 instead of Q2.
but it is a good outdoors light. warm-neutral white.

Many particular models probably do use a Q3. Manufacturers don't buy just a single flux bin, they spec a MINIMUM bin, and the supplier will ship anything which meets OR EXCEEDS those specs.

Same with the "outdated" CE series lights recently on sale. P4 bins (min spec) are actually quite rare these days. You can still buy to it as a minimum spec, but most units will be Q2+ bins.