simpler BXA holder for 3/4" and 1" shank tools ...

wquiles

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Although my massive 1" BXA holder is awesome, it took a long time to make from scratch. I have since acquired some good buys on tool holders that have a 3/4" and 1" shank, so I need to make new ones. Since I am still learning this machining "stuff", I decided to try something new.

For perspective, my 1" holder in the left, and a standard 5/8" holder in the right:
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Instead of making one completely out a a solid piece of still, I decided to start from an existing BXA holder: a 1" boring bar holder:
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I picked this type of holder in particular because it is fairly massive compared to the standard BXA holders:
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It is unfortunately not quite as tall as my 1" BXA holder, but it will do:
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First, a small "deviation" (kind of going OT on my own post for a short while - yes, I know I am a little bit crazy!). I made a custom shield for my milling machine, to try to both protect my face better, but also to contain some of the chips. I started with a face shield ($8-9):
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I cut (with a Dremel tool) and smooth the raw/sharp edges:
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and then I mounted it on an adjustable, hydraulic magnetic mount, for total adjustability:
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OK, back on topic. For this project I am using my new Bison ER40 collets and ball-bearing collet closer/nut:
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For cutting duty I used my trusted 1" milling cutter:
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I did two holders, with slightly different methods. This is method 1, which I do NOT recommend. You basically start milling the whole piece:
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man, do I hate these sharp curls!:
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So you progressively keep cutting away:
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until you eventually get to the interior part that is 1" dia:
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You then cut a little bit more, so that the tool has a nice, straight edge upon to rest/alight itself:
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It is still too long/deep, but it looks like this with a 1" shank tool inside the holder:
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A 3/4" shank tool of course still fits, but it is of course smaller than the opening (think of it as using a 1/2" tool on a 5/8" tool holder):
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The next step is to of course cut the excess, as this would prevent the cutting tool from getting as close to the chuck as possible:
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So, here comes method #2, and what I will do from now on: Cut the piece first, then mill it:
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I then go back to the mill, and open the hole using the same 1" mill:
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You can see in this picture how much bigger this already-cut holder is compared to the standard 5/8" holder:
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again, with a 1" shank tool:
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not quite as big as my own 1" holder, isn't? :devil:
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I finished the holder (cleaned and makes edges level/flat on the mill, cleaned the edges with a file, etc.) and blackened the steel, but the bolt on the 1" boring bar holder was not long enough for using the 1" shank tools, so I decided to make my own 10mm-1.0 bolts. Here just taking some quick measurements on the existing bolt:
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So I changed my lathe to cut metric threads, and proceeded to make a new bolt (long enough for my two new holders). For the turning operation, note how my trusty 4xx CNMG holder can't quite fit in there:
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but my 4x DNMG can:
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Here I got the OD done:
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and here I am threading the bolt:
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I cut the bolt:
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and screwed it in the holder (the bolt was "slightly" oversize for a tight fit on the holder):
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All done on this holder which I will use for a 3/4" shank tool:
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But for the 1" shank tool, just like I found out with the 1" BXA holder that I made earlier, I had to cut a little (0.150" x 0.350") the bottom part of the holder for it to drop low enough to center the 1" shank tool:
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and now it fits:
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And this is the final product for the "simpler" 1" BXA tool holder:
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Except for having to make a bolt from scratch, this was easier and more straight forward than my prior 1" BXA holder since I don't have to cut a new dovetail. They are not as big/heavy as my original 1" BXA holder, and not as pretty/elegant, but they work well, so when I have to make new ones, I will do them this way again.
 
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Looks nice.

For 3/4" tools, I just milled out one of the Chinese 5/8" holders. It's only 1/16 on each side. Really works pretty well, need to make another one.
 
Love these threads wquiles- thanks again. Are the boring bar holders imports or US made? I ask because I have found the import steel to be quite soft and mill-able, but the top-end stuff I thought would be very tough. Or is the 1" mill with inserts really a great tool?
 
Good idea to start with the 1" hole already in place - that's a lot of material that's already been removed for you.

I spoke with Aloris recently about a holder for my 1.75" boring bar. They often make custom holders, usually 2", for CXA, but the price is high - $325. Pretty sure I can carve one out of 4140 in five or six hours so I'll probably go that route :D

The reason for 2" is that the holder fits a 2" BB, plus 1.75" and 1.50" with reducing sleeves. I have 1.25", 1" and .75" covered already, and the 5C collet holder works for everything smaller.
 
Looks nice.

For 3/4" tools, I just milled out one of the Chinese 5/8" holders. It's only 1/16 on each side. Really works pretty well, need to make another one.
Absolutely. For a tool holder that will only take a 3/4" tool, that would be even faster, since you don't have to drill/tap new holes. The only small advantage of doing them the way I did (although again, not quite worth the extra time/hassle) is that you end up with a slightly wider holder that can bite/hold the 3/4" shank more towards the center of the shank, and keep more of the 3/4" shank inside the holder:
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Love these threads wquiles- thanks again. Are the boring bar holders imports or US made? I ask because I have found the import steel to be quite soft and mill-able, but the top-end stuff I thought would be very tough.
Yes, you MUST use the import tool holders, specially if you are going to saw off any of the excess length. I already ruined a nice Starrett metal saw blade just trying to cut a premium holder once, plus the drilling and threading will be the death of you and/or your gear :devil:


Or is the 1" mill with inserts really a great tool?
That mill is AWESOME. Definitely my workhorse at the mill. It does not leave a nice finish as a nice 4-6 edge cobalt mill, but with those inserts it just chews out steel fairly nice and easy. I seem to always take about 0.050" per pass, at about 600-700 RPM with the Accu-Lube.


Good idea to start with the 1" hole already in place - that's a lot of material that's already been removed for you.
Thanks - that was the basic idea of starting with this particular holder, plus it is just bigger and wider than the 5/8" holder to start with.

Pretty sure I can carve one out of 4140 in five or six hours so I'll probably go that route :D
That is what I would do in your case. Just don't take quite as many pictures as I do, and you will be done in no time ;)
 
Since I already have the lathe setup to cut metric threads, I decided to cut two more 10mm-1.0 screws to have them ready for future projects:
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This time I "prepped" the area between each screw (one shorter for the 3/4" shank tools and one longer for the 1" shank tools):
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Got a nice, tight fit (unlike the sloppy fit of the OEM parts):
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Here are my two new screws on top, with the OEM screw at the bottom:
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Close-up:
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I also forgot to mention that I have a factory 3/4" shank tool holder from Dorian (here on the left, next to my 3/4" and 1" shank holder):
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From left to right: standard 5/8" holder, Dorian 3/4" holder, WQ's custom holder (note Dorian's is longer):
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Will
 
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You guys might remember that a lot of the work for this holder was so that I could use this 1" shank Top Notch tool:
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Well, today I was able to use the new tool for the first time - it worked great!
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Nice looking finning :twothumbs

Thank you very much for the link. I ordered 2 for myself...
After I saw those holders I saw some of the "standard" Aloris CXA on his web site. Phoned Jeff on Monday morning & he made me a deal - 8 holders total, all Aloris or Dorian CXA, for under $20 each. They arrived Wednesday, very well packed.

These 8 holders, added to the 14 I'd picked up here & there, give me 22 total (all are used except those that came with the Dorian tool post). Just about enough for now :crackup:
 
You guys might remember that a lot of the work for this holder was so that I could use this 1" shank Top Notch tool:
DSCF2312.JPG



Well, today I was able to use the new tool for the first time - it worked great!
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What is the black "plug" you have in the inside of the mag head? Interesting way to use the live center any any case. I guess you can't have it too rigid.
 
What is the black "plug" you have in the inside of the mag head? Interesting way to use the live center any any case. I guess you can't have it too rigid.

This spacer block gives me two additional advantages:
- more clearance for the cutting bit
- no-marring on the head

It is just a solid piece of Delrin that I keep in compression between the TS and the head, to try minimize vibrations and provide "some" support on the hanging end. It is not as solid as having the actual metal bull head metal live center, but it is "good enough" for this job as you can tell by how nice, even, shinny, and shatter-free the finish was.
 
will what tool holder is that is pictured with the mdjnr the one that is neutral?
 
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t

this is the one i was wanting to know about
 
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To be honest, I hardly ever use it since I have a smaller one that I use a lot more often. Send me an email if you are interested - I will make you a good deal if you want it.

Will
 

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