Skilhunt Defier X1 (XM-L) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES, DETAILED PICS and more!
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Interesting, thanks for sharing the pic.
I have no way to perform a metallurgical analysis - has anyone found a way to confirm whether or not it is copper? AFAIK, the aluminum reflector is bonded to the machined-matched heatsink, so it is unlikely anyone would be able to separate the two (i.e., would need to damage the reflector/heatsink to get a piece off). A skilhunt dealer informed me that the reflector apparently threads into some sort of bezel/reflector retaining ring, which in turn threads onto the heatsink in the head. But because the whole unit is bonded together, I have no way of verifying this. :shrug: Anyone have more info? I don't know what the material of the retaining ring is, but I wonder if that could be what is showing up in the pics above (if it actually threads from the base?). :thinking:
As for the translation, I note the official skilhunt site still says copper on their english-language wesite (as they also confirmed to me in personal correspondence when I asked them to verify).
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Perhaps you could center punch the heat sink on an obscure place under the head. This should remove the plating and let you see what's underneath. I don't know if you own it or if it's just on load though. You may not want to add and imperfection.
Got Lumens?
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hi Selfbuilt,
I too have no way of doing a metallurgical analysis. I can confirm the the reflectors are not bonded to the heat sink. I have a unit with an unglued head that allows me to switch reflectors. I will check to see if there is a way to get a sample from under the reflector. It requires destructive testing
.As far as the pictures above, that is not a retaining ring, it is a wafer washer that inserts between the alluminum head and the driver to ensure a good ground connection between the driver and body. The Drivers are epoxied in place and can not be removed. This maybe a different revision, as mine has a gold outer ring. The purpose of this maintains a ground path when the head of the light is loosened allowing a break in contact with the inner ring which provides switching of modes. The LED package sits directly on the the heat sink with thermal compound. This picture above does not show any portion of the Solid heat sink. I have PM'd CPF member Dsche to see if he will translate and repost to that original RU site.
I don't have a handy picture of the X1 heatsink and reflector, but it is very simular to the X3 picture below.
GL
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Thanks Got Lumens?, appreciate the detailed overview :thumbsup:
While the source of the heatsink material is of esoteric interest, I have no way to assess. I usually tell the difference between copper and brass by a low-tech method - trying to bend them, lol.
In any case, I am personally not overly concerned whether the material is copper or brass. The X1 and X3 are not particularly heavily-driven for their class, and I've seen a number of good lights with decent brass heatsinks. What typically matters a lot more is the interface between the pill and the heatsink (i.e. good quality - and an appropriate amount - of thermal paste).
My lengthy experience of CPU over-clocking over the years (and its required cooling) have taught me that a proper interface and transfer material matters a lot more than the actual heatsink material. This is not so easy to assess on any light, unless one plans to dissamble the pill and desolder the leads (i.e., as if one is doing an emitter upgrade). That is certainly not part of my standard testing ...
dsche
Newly Enlightened
Got Lumens?, thanks for pictures! You are right, this is ground washer, not a part of heatsink
On Russian forum we was confused a little with "vergolden copper", so we just ask SKILHUNT's spokesman about it
Answer was: 'It's brass; there is a mistake with English translation on the site' (
On Russian forum we was confused a little with "vergolden copper", so we just ask SKILHUNT's spokesman about it
Answer was: 'It's brass; there is a mistake with English translation on the site' (
Interesting, thanks for the update dsche.
Obviously, multi-national translation can get tricky for these companies. I will add a note in this review and my X3, pointing to these posts.
Cheers! :wave:
NetSkipper
Newly Enlightened
Hello and thank you for the review.
I've read some russian review on this flashlight, and the author stated that the X1 can operate up to 14v. He even tested it with 2 extension tubes using 4xCR123A (total of 12v) and 2x17670 or 2x18650 (8.4v). Which info is more accurate?
Regardless of that, is there any EU or Asian seller that sells accessories for the X1? I'm interested in buying the X2's tactical flared tail.
I've read some russian review on this flashlight, and the author stated that the X1 can operate up to 14v. He even tested it with 2 extension tubes using 4xCR123A (total of 12v) and 2x17670 or 2x18650 (8.4v). Which info is more accurate?
Regardless of that, is there any EU or Asian seller that sells accessories for the X1? I'm interested in buying the X2's tactical flared tail.
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You would have to ask Skilhunt to confirm. The specs listed at the top of the review are what they provided at the time of launch.
Note that lights can sometimes operate for brief periods of time over-voltage ... but this usually results in eventual circuit failure (typically within minutes in my experience, but it could vary). Unless Skilhunt confrms the wider voltage range, I would be wary of running a light over voltage spec.
NetSkipper
Newly Enlightened
So I've got this flashlight, and also bought Panasonic 18650 3.7v 3100mAh.
What are the best rechargeable batteries in order to use the flashlight with the extender tube, thus prolong the usage time?
If I'll buy 2 x 18500 3.7v 1600 mAh each, will it extend the usage?
What are the best rechargeable batteries in order to use the flashlight with the extender tube, thus prolong the usage time?
If I'll buy 2 x 18500 3.7v 1600 mAh each, will it extend the usage?
You are probably best sticking with the 3100mAh 18650, as the 18500 cells are relatively lower capacity (i.e., even at 2x1600mAh, you won't be doing much better than 1x3100mAh).
