SSt-50 driver board????

[RoBeacon]

What drivers are available for the SST-50? Ballpark pricing would be appreciated too. I would prefer to have modes but it isn't necesary. I'm thinking for ease of use just using 4 NiMH C's in a PVC sleeve. This way if worst comes to worst I can run Alks or 3D's if absolutely nothing is available.
From some research I've noticed that the sst-50 will throw better than a p7. I decided to change my 3D M@g build to be a more throwie light.

 

[irv_usc]

look at the H6flex thread above.

there is also an h6cc also by task that drives 6.6A no modes.

not sure if 4 nimh would be enough to keep the driver in regulation though.

 

[TorchBoy]

Re: SST-50 driver board?

Some high current drivers to consider.

 

[Stereodude]

Re: SST-50 driver board?

I'm not sure you have enough voltage. I think you you may need a another cell to get 5A (or use some other battery strategy).

 

[Techjunkie]

4 C NiMH with failback to Alks. or 3Ds is a perfect power source for a 12*AMC7135 buck driver. You can stack 3 1400mA buck drivers. KD sells a five pack for ~$10. Output would be ~4.2-4.3A.

 

[RoBeacon]

Thanks for all the info. I will look into all these options. Any Suggestions on battery configs? I don't really have access to tools that would allow me to cut down the body and re-thread it, so i'm trying to keep the stock 3D length. I am open to ideas for battery holders or some form of make shift sleave. I did just buy some PVC to run 4 C's not sure what i'll do about bulb yet. I was thinking about just overdriving a cheap mag upgrade if they aren't too expensive.

 

[Stereodude]

Are you open to Li-Ion rechargeables?

 

[RoBeacon]

yeah I'm pretty much open to anything. What did you have in mind?

 

[Aircraft800]

4x C NiMH will easily give you 5A in a 3D light with no special tooling needed. I can get 9A with 4x C NiMH and a DIWdiver, he also has 2 mode 5A versions that are a perfect match for 4 NiMH cells.

 

[RoBeacon]

4x C NiMH will easily give you 5A in a 3D light with no special tooling needed. I can get 9A with 4x C NiMH and a DIWdiver, he also has 2 mode 5A versions that are a perfect match for 4 NiMH cells.

That sounds perfect the 2 modes of "wow that's bright and holy cow!!!"

 

[RoBeacon]

Would it be necessary to get the liquid to wash out all the connections for better continuity? I believe the stuff de-annodizes??? Also I heard talk of a treatment kit you can get from rat shack that I belive gold plates metal for better flow as well? are theese steps necessary to achieve what I'm trying to do (Create an sst-50 thrower)?

 

[Aircraft800]

The driver I mentioned bypass the switch with the high current lead, and use the switch simply to signal the driver to change modes, so only a few µA go threw the switch. You will have to modify your switch, there are a few great guides with pictures here.

 

[RoBeacon]

The driver I mentioned bypass the switch with the high current lead, and use the switch simply to signal the driver to change modes, so only a few µA go threw the switch. You will have to modify your switch, there are a few great guides with pictures here.

So I can modify the factory switch to trigger the modes on the driver?

 

[Aircraft800]

So I can modify the factory switch to trigger the modes on the driver?

Yes, it's pretty easy. I'll see if I can find the tutorial or pictures.

 

[RoBeacon]

If you find it that would be great.

 

[Aircraft800]

You would have to take apart the switch and make it only signal the driver, the battery lead would bypass it. I'll see what I can find, it would look similar to these momentary switch mods, without modding the plastic black lock cam in the switch.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=212470
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...ad.php?t=90912
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=185436
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=618553

I had to borrow these pictures from the above threads, these by Will and Freddy.

Here is the "+" wire that will bypass the switch:

Now solder it to the spring, this is your full time "+" to the driver:

Now we need to modify the internal part of the switch to carry the switch contacts needed by our driver:

See how Freddy ran one wire to each of the contacts of the switch, and he installed some nice shrink tube to isolate it from the nearby positive terminal.

So now you need one more wire to the ground,

A total of 4 wires, one full time "+" to the spring, one "-" to the setscrew, and 2 wires to either side of the switch.

I hope that helps Sorry about using many different sources for the pictures, but the tutorials were for momentary switch mod, you will only need to do the switch bypass mod. One of these days I'll create a new tutorial.

 

[RoBeacon]

Thank you that will help out a lot.