Surefire and water

code09

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Does anyone know how deep a surefire can withstand in water?
Im planning on taking my surefires for a swim to test it out, good idea or no?
Surefire e1e VG/KL1, e2e VG, e2d, M3T
 

Size15's

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With clean and undamaged o-rings lightly lubed the SureFires should take short-duration shallow submersion

SureFires are not divelights unless specifically rated or tested as such.

I would suggest that you do not subject metal flashlights to rapid changes in temperature when submerging them - like cold outdoors to hot pool water.

I would suggest that you do not rotate the TailCaps or bezels underwater.

I can not say how well the "VG" parts will cope.

If you are "testing" them out then you are obviously prepared for them to fail. If the possibility of them leaking is unacceptable then I suggest you don't test them. If you need to know whether they can take it because you need them to be able then by all means.

If they were my SureFires (I don't own any "VG" parts) I would play with them, sorry, test them underwater.

Al
 

leukos

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Like Size15's said, put some extra silicone grease on the o-rings!
According to page 42 in SF's 2004 catalogue, most of their lights seem to be waterproof up to one atmosphere of pressure (about 33 feet). However, the G2 is probably one that is nothing more than dunkable. SF can waterproof your light for an extra cost. They have provided lights for the Navy that were waterproof to 150 ft.
If you really want a dive light though, you might look into what Princeton Tec and Underwater Kinetics have to offer. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

code09

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ohhh i see, what kinda damage would i be looking at if it leaked? At most, new LA right?
 

Size15's

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If your SureFire leaked...

Depending on situation and what leaked in, you may want to flush through with clean water.

1) The SF123As would be ruined. They may also have leaked - use gloves and be in a well ventilated area. Dispose of them safely. If your SureFire has leaked do not reuse the batteries.

2) The Lamp Assembly may be ruined. Dry slowly under 'natural air' or perhaps an 'airing cupboard' - do not directly heat. It may take some time. It may not be worth using the Lamp Assembly again.

3) The reflector may be ruined. At worst chemicals in the water and the heat from the bulb could cause discolouration. At best there will be waterstains. This likely would be visible in the beam.

4) The shock isolation 'neoprene' strip and some of the seals will take a long time to dry out.

Drying time, even in an "airing cupboard" could be a couple weeks - in my experience its best not to rush it. Each time the flashlight heats up the reflector / window could mist up - it's very difficult to get rid of every last bit.

Al
 

ACMarina

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There are photos on here someplace of different Surefire lights (including a G2) at reasonable depth, ie. deeper than you'd swim without either really trying hard to freedive or being on air.

For the cost of a lot of those lights, though, there are a lot of good options if you intend on being in water. I personally like Princeton Tec for a decent waterproof light. .
 

Ray_of_Light

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I hooked a E2e to a fishing line and dropped it in the Tiber. I gave ten meter of depth for 30 minutes. I didn't find any trace of water inside.

Anthony
 

Boltgun

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[ QUOTE ]
Ray_of_Light said:
I hooked a E2e to a fishing line and dropped it in the Tiber. I gave ten meter of depth for 30 minutes. I didn't find any trace of water inside.

Anthony

[/ QUOTE ]

Did you catch any fish? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Boltgun
 

Ray_of_Light

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For the chronicles, no, I didn't catch any fish. I believe the E2e is too hard to swallow and is not regarded as edible by the majority of fishes, or any other animal for this matter.
By any mean, I was trying to use a scientific method to apply one atmosphere of positive pressure to the light, which my kitchen sink doesn't allow me to do, being not deep enough. Dropping, in a controlled manner, the light in deep waters is a good recognized method for applying an external pressure to it.
Rivers and pools are suggested, since the salt content of sea water may chemically interact with the light, producing unwanted conseguences.

My E2e is waterproof to 10 meters, at least.

Anthony
 

code09

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Thanks ray, that just makes me wanna go deeper with it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

Fiatlux

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I am putting together two custom E2e's for a 600 mile sea kayak trip, along the coast of British Columbia....lots of rain and ocean,I do not plan on seeing the ten meter underwater mark, but am sure, it will get wet, and remain so, until that nights camp... plan to check the O rings, and keep a silicon grease in all threaded areas.
 

greenLED

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Keep in mind salt water (+sand) is nastier on electronics than freshwater. If I were going on this trip of yours I'd take Pelican or UK lights, not SF's.
 

Fiatlux

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Good point !!! salt water and sand, is tough on a kayaker as well...I have electronics within the cockpit,GPS VHF Weather alerts and electric pumps... so am going to upgrade the hybrid surefires as well.
 

js

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I read where one CPFer tested all his SureFires (including his M6) in a hot tub. He submerged them, turned them on, and turned them off, then took them out and checked for leakage. None of them leaked. If you searched the old threads, I'm sure you could find it. Probably could just search on "hot tub" in the General forum.
 

Cornkid

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How can you waterproof a surefire? How much would it cost? If I get the L2.. I might want to get it waterproofed..

Has anyone gotten their light waterproofed?

-tom
 

cognitivefun

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Flashlightreviews.com says that SF represents water proof down to 33 feet (1 atmosphere)

I think one thing that helps is using a good silicon grease on the O-rings
 

symes

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I had an M2 and M3 that I used for some early night diving... Max depth for me on that dive was about 80ft.

The M2 did fine, the M3 filled up with water half way into the bezel but the light stayed on. I then contacted Surefire, because both the M2 and M3 should be "dive-ok" to that depth (according to the data on the old website which is no longer there....interestingly) and they pressure tested both of them, cleaned them out and sent me new lamp assemblies just to be on the safe side.

One thing to note is that the press button tailcaps automatically turn on when you get beyond a trivial depth due to the pressure change. Diving recommendations are usually that you don't turn your light on or off once in the water, so you might want to remember that and decide which lights are going on and screw down tight before you go below...
 

symes

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All of which being said, I'd also recommend something with extended run-time for the bulk of the time - reading charts, chores at camp etc... and keep the E2e for long distance work and you'll save a ton on batteries and won't keep blowing your eyes...

Something like a UK 4AA eLED, Streamlight 4AA 7LED (155 hours claimed) or the new Surefire L1, which now has great throw and which I am currently testing but is doing great right now having just past the 144 hours mark on 1x123 and still will flip to high beam if you need it.

Just a thought....
 

Pydpiper

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My Sure fires, L4 and G2 are always in the water. I bring them in the hot tub,, my kids play with them in the bath tub.. This summer they will get the real test when I have to dig them out of the bilge of my boat like I do my keys, cell phone and anything else that was once in my pocket.
I clean and lube everything once a week, I like to know it is all fresh and I also use this time to inspect my lights.
 
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