Surefire E2E Mods

wooniris

Newly Enlightened
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Oct 17, 2006
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Singapore
Dear All,

Waht mod's can I do toa SF E2E to use RCR123 or increase lumens?

Thanks

Chee Hong
 
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I use the Lumens Factory [font=&quot]EO-E2R[/font][font=&quot] (7.2V) at 150 Lumens (non SureFire lumens) running 2 unprotected Li-Ions. Puts out about the same amount of light as the P60.
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Fivemega also sells an upgrade socket kit that you can upgrade bulbs with, use a single 17670 inside the light, increase runtime, and brightness.
 
Alin10123 said:
Fivemega also sells an upgrade socket kit that you can upgrade bulbs with, use a single 17670 inside the light, increase runtime, and brightness.
I'll vouch for this setup. I have one I run in my E2e. It's considerably brighter and whiter than the MN03, and runs about 75 minutes.
 
the lumens factory mod is nice i have one for my e2d, considerably brighter but you do lose about 15 minutes of runtime, but its well worth it.
 
EV_007 said:
I use the Lumens Factory [font=&quot]EO-E2R[/font][font=&quot] (7.2V) at 150 Lumens (non SureFire lumens) running 2 unprotected Li-Ions. Puts out about the same amount of light as the P60.
[/font]

I have a Lumens Factory EO-E1R with a 17670 and it beats the P60 no question about it. I would hope that the EO-E2R is brighter than the E1R.
 
ill have to agree with you mike my E2r is pretty friggin bright, i have a p60 and p61 and its alot closer to p61 output than p60, plus its rechargable, the only way to go, to h*ll with non-rechargables!:rock:
 
Mikeg23 said:
I have a Lumens Factory EO-E1R with a 17670 and it beats the P60 no question about it. I would hope that the EO-E2R is brighter than the E1R.

I run the EO-E1R in my SureFire E1E with 1 unprotected Li-Ions and the EO-E2R in my SureFire E2E with 2 unprotected Li-Ions. I haven't tried the 17670 approach since it does not fit the SureFire E2E tube.

The P60 seems to have a brighter hotspot and the Lumens Factory EO-E2R seems to have a more diffused beam profile. This could be due to the fact that the P60 in the SureFire G2 has a larger/deeper reflector than the SureFire E2E.

I guess my miles have varied.
 
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Those kiddy LED lights just don't work outdoors, especially this time of year with the leaves and branches waving back and forth. I think they're not so hot indoors either, but that's a topic for another thread. E2R lamp in the E2E with a couple of AW's protected RCR's makes a great everyday carry light. I have an extra E2R and 4 extra AW protected RCR's in an SC3 spares carrier as well, just in case I need some more light.

I guess the only problems I've had with the Lumen's Factory lamps is that the filiment looks like it's a little bit higher on both of mine than the MN03 lamp assembly is. This makes my MN03's have a little better hotspot than my EO-E2R's because it is deeper in the reflector. I think this is something they need to change. Also a couple of mine arrived with gunk on the lamps. Cleaned the easy stuff off with some isoprophyl alcohol and the harder caked on stuff under a table lamp with a knife. Much better after that.
 
Those kiddy LED lights just don't work outdoors, especially this time of year with the leaves and branches waving back and forth. I think they're not so hot indoors either, but that's a topic for another thread. E2R lamp in the E2E with a couple of AW's protected RCR's makes a great everyday carry light. I have an extra E2R and 4 extra AW protected RCR's in an SC3 spares carrier as well, just in case I need some more light.

I guess the only problems I've had with the Lumen's Factory lamps is that the filiment looks like it's a little bit higher on both of mine than the MN03 lamp assembly is. This makes my MN03's have a little better hotspot than my EO-E2R's because it is deeper in the reflector. I think this is something they need to change. Also a couple of mine arrived with gunk on the lamps. Cleaned the easy stuff off with some isoprophyl alcohol and the harder caked on stuff under a table lamp with a knife. Much better after that.

Hey, I have an honest question I'm afraid will come off as rude. Why is there such dislike for LED lights floating around? I come from a background of ... oh, in order... 2xAA Mag, AAA Dorcy LED, Inova X5, Inova XO 1.4 watt, Jetbeam C-LEv2, Surefire 6p, Surefire E2. Until I got my Surefire for my birthday... well, those are also listed in order of increasing brightness. For people who're used to Mag, high-power LEDs really are the bees' knees. 4xD performance in a 2xAAA package? Freakin' sweet. I still, owning 'better' lights, like the XO best in some regards - it just doesn't get dimmer at all for four and a half hours. The C-LE goes from full brightness to dead within two minutes when it falls out of regulation, the Surefires' runtime curves drop like normal incandescents, but the XO gives you enough time (with enough drop to make it obvious you need batteries) to get new batteries without being left without a tool.

The Surefire still outthrows it handily, but I'm still not sure which will be my EDC light - basically everything on that list is still in play.

Point is, they all work just about as well - what am I missing?
 
its a color rendition issue...which cannot be remedied no matter how bright LEDs become...unless of course companies like Lumileds/Seoul/CREE manage to create LEDs capable of emitting multi-wavelength lights I'm afraid LEDs will never achieve the same level as incandescent.
second, LEDs don't penetrate brush and forests well, I'm unsure of what the reason here is either, but if I'm going outdoors in a wooded environment I find LEDs relatively useless except for open areas:rolleyes:
 
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I've heard it suggested that multiphosphor LEDs could produce similar color fidelity to incandedscents. Also, my own personal ideas suggest that a multi-die LED could combine ... oh, call it six - RGB, CMY - different wavelength LEDs on one chip. I've seen four and eight-die white LEDs; it's not much of a stretch to imagine this being done.

Partially I feel better knowing that the mechanisms aren't well understood. Perhaps it's the warmer colors are more likely to be reflected by brush, instead of absorbed, giving them a second chance to be seen?
 
I use the Lumens Factory [FONT=&quot]EO-E2R[/FONT][FONT=&quot] (7.2V) at 150 Lumens (non SureFire lumens) running 2 unprotected Li-Ions. Puts out about the same amount of light as the P60.
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In my experience the EO-E2R on two 17500's puts out about twice as much light as a P60 on fresh batteries.
 
That's a 3x123 sized stack of batteries, though. What about us who don't want to replace the body tube, or can't find a good extension?
 
I've heard it suggested that multiphosphor LEDs could produce similar color fidelity to incandedscents. Also, my own personal ideas suggest that a multi-die LED could combine ... oh, call it six - RGB, CMY - different wavelength LEDs on one chip. I've seen four and eight-die white LEDs; it's not much of a stretch to imagine this being done.

I started a thread a while back asking that same question about the practicality of a multi-die emitter with different colors. The basic summary is that it could be done, but the different color dies have different power requirements and wiring them together would be complicated. Plus, for now, the LED companies are in a race to see who can get the brightest emitter to the market with little consideration for color rendition. Until they do, many of us who know our way around lights will continue to use incands because we like them, and we know how make and use them well.
 
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