Tailcap with side mounted switch instead of clicky? (first time poster)

[frostyT]

Hey everyone! My first thread here on CPF, so bear with me; I think I'm in the right section of the forum, but if not feel free to badger me endlessly!

NOW, I'm looking to mount a small flashlight (say the 4Sevens Quark Mini 123 or the Fenix P1D/P2D for example) on the underside of a pistol I recently purchased. My issue is that, in a time of need I don't feel that a "twisty" on function like that on the Quark and P1D would serve me well - I would prefer to be able to turn the light on/off while keeping my pistol accurately pointed. In addition, although a clicky tailcap like that of the P2D would be preferable to the Quarks switching, this still poses a bit of an awkward situation, especially if the tailcap is too close to the trigger guard and my finger cannot easily reach it.

So this got me wondering; I can't be the only person who has encountered this issue. Has anyone designed or built a replacement for say the clicky tailcap on the P2D that, instead of the push button, has a switch on the side that could easily be flicked on/off with the back end of the light inaccessible/flush with my trigger guard? More generally, put your light flush on a table pointing straight up; can the tailcap push button be replaced with something that would allow it to be turned on/off without moving it? A pressure switch is kind of out of the question, but if you've got any other suggestion, feel free to let me know - I'm all ears, but if nothing comes of this, I'll probably set out to build one myself! While I'm on the topic, has anyone gotten a pushbutton on the Quark Mini or P1D?

I don't feel like paying $100 for a light that weighs 4-5 ounces and puts out 90 lumens that has been designed for a pistol mount. I can buy a mount and put a superior light in it with better output and throw for a better price that weighs half that and costs less. I realize that the light i chose will have to be suitable to withstand the recoil, so any suggestions would be appreciated, but the biggest issue is the weight of the light. That said I have faith that the Fenix lights would be up to the job. Thanks for your help everyone!

 

[frostyT]

well i guess that answers my question. time to make one. if i succeed i'll post it.

 

[LukeA]

Best I can tell, you'll need some kind of extra-long tailcap.

 

[kosPap]

indeed you are looking at a long solution....

the only thing adaptable are the someaftermarket e-series (surefire) taiolcap with 2 switches....cannot recall their manufacturer but they are found on the TNVC.com site...\\also search the forum for a thread of mine on surefire aftermarket switches by me.....fellow member Justin Case has one dissasembled there....

 

[VidPro]

i would want a small wired button switch comming back from the light mounted for thumb operation.
actually i would want a part trigger pull (very liteweight half pull) that turned the light on first, then a full (heavy) trigger pull that fires, like a digital camera , but then i havent ever pointed a gun at people , and someone is sure to not figure out how to use it and ruin that idea completly :devil: . A different world that might work in.

just thought, along the ideas, depends on the gun

they have a lot of "pressure switches" for "tactical" now, some of them arent really pressure , but wired switch moving the tail switch to a different location. they look solid, and reliable, but not small and unobtrusive.

would be cool to just translate the lights switching to an easy thumb press on the handle or immediate accessable location.
take like the shortest twisty thing they got, preferably with head removal (vs tail) for battery replacements.
drill the back end to shove small wires through, make an insulation sandwitch , 2 metals tied to wire, with insulator inbetween, (or spring tie, plus insulator and battery conductor) run wire out the bottom of light to a flat momentary switch mounted sort of flat or recessed into the handle itself . Twist light to on position as nessisary, external switch does switching (aka battery disconnection).

That just leaves many of the lights switching modes on you (high med low strobe) or other such unnessisary distractions, the recoil thrusts, and stuff like that.
i wouldnt even want to have to reach anywhere, or change hand or finger position, and by having it on the thumb or some totally opposite trigger finger area, you could even operate both at once. I would want a light that never stops cold due to the driver type or style, or battery type. But one that dimms slowly till unusable instead, when the battery is low.

cool idea to sort of self build the lights operation for the gun itself, save some money, and get it tuned/sized for your device and operation style.
just ideas, while your at it, do the DNA recognition handle and get that done sometime before 2040
WOuld be interesting to see pics.

 

[csa]

I'm pretty happy with my existing surefire weaponlight. Not sure I'd trust something hacked together from homebuilt parts to be there when I want it.

I might consider building a switch into the rear safety, except that I really don't think that the light and switch would be half as reliable as the springfield...

 

[kosPap]

I would prefer to be able to turn the light on/off while keeping my pistol accurately pointed.!

if your pistol is a glock why don't you try this?
http://img218.imageshack.us/i/igp2482smallqk9.jpg/
thumb use is not that critical....relaxing it puts the light off....

 

[frostyT]

would be cool to just translate the lights switching to an easy thumb press on the handle or immediate accessable location.
take like the shortest twisty thing they got, preferably with head removal (vs tail) for battery replacements.
drill the back end to shove small wires through, make an insulation sandwitch , 2 metals tied to wire, with insulator inbetween, (or spring tie, plus insulator and battery conductor) run wire out the bottom of light to a flat momentary switch mounted sort of flat or recessed into the handle itself . Twist light to on position as nessisary, external switch does switching (aka battery disconnection).
...
cool idea to sort of self build the lights operation for the gun itself, save some money, and get it tuned/sized for your device and operation style.
just ideas, while your at it, do the DNA recognition handle and get that done sometime before 2040
WOuld be interesting to see pics.

What you've described is essentially my exact plan at this point. Twisty cap switches tend to be smaller and lighter, and assuming they function in the way you described, this will likely be my plan, though I'd probably prefer to permanently seal the cap in place and replace the batteries through the tailcap.

DNA recognition to come, preceded of course by a blood typed verification for the sake of saving time. Upon recognizing the incorrect alleles, a series of long, arsenic/cyanide filled hollow composite spikes will find their way through the subjects hand and up through his/her forearm. At this point my prototype *almost* never malfunctions

I'm pretty happy with my existing surefire weaponlight. Not sure I'd trust something hacked together from homebuilt parts to be there when I want it.

Well realistically, I'm going to be able to give this project a lot more attention than any light mass produced by Surefire. Not to take any credit from Surefire, their company produces some top quality products, but I've got faith that I can design something that functions just as well if not better, because my concern is with function, design, and my well being as is entrusted to my firearm, not profit margins and large scale production. Plus I don't have $X00 to throw away on a light. I could just buy some nightvision goggles for that price :thumbsup:

if your pistol is a glock why don't you try this?
http://img218.imageshack.us/i/igp2482smallqk9.jpg/
thumb use is not that critical....relaxing it puts the light off....

Ah my pistol is actually a Springfield XD. Something like that would probably still work, but that looks really cumbersome and like it would get in the way of a proper grip. I'd like something a little more stable an permanent as well, not stuck on with glue/velcro.