The best remedy for a stiff "Mule'?

[jumpstat]

Hi to all,

Can you all provide the most effective way to smoothen the operation of the Mule Bezel and Piston drive. As it is the mule is such a small light therefore not much grip on the body itself to operate the piston comfortably. I've also changed the o-rings and used nyogel 760 on the bezel threads and the piston but to no avail. Its still stiff since I received it from Don from the 2nd wave

It got worst when I compared to the PD-S i bought from TX which to my delight was extra buttery smooth and can be operated singlehandedly...

Thanks all....

 

[easilyled]

Your PD-S is not Ti if I recall correctly. Aluminium being softer is much easier to break-in
and you would expect the threads to be much smoother than on a Ti light.

Having said that, my mule is very smooth too compared to some of my earlier
Ti lights so I guess I'm lucky.

I think that Krytox is the best lube though, and you can obtain a Krytox
50/50 blend from the sandwich shop.

TranquillityBase has also said that applying toothpaste to the threads
and then working them for a while will help to smooth the action

(you must obviously remove the o-ring prior to doing this, and don't overdo
it since you wouldn't want the threads to become too slack)

 

[Codeman]

I second the Krytox 50/50 recommendation. It really seems to work better on Ti.

Over time, the twisty action will smooth out, but you can speed it up some. What I did was to simply work the head while applying some pressure to "pull" the bezel forward. After a while, the Krytox gets fouled (looks dark gray). I then clean it off with alcohol and re-apply. After doing this a few times, it got noticably smoother.

Some folks have also used valve lapping compound to speed up the process, but, knowing me, I'd go too far and end up with loose threads.

 

[McGizmo]

What these guys said. I would add that I found Nyogel had a terrible propensity to thicken up and cause greater stiction than other lubes like silicone grease.

 

[TxTroubleMaker]

jumpstat,
Here's a couple of things that I've noticed about the new Ti lights which may be contributing to the stiff piston action. The earlier aluminum and titanium lights used a #15 o-ring for the piston versus the newer lights which are using #16 o-rings(better water seal but a little stiffer action). Also the newer lights have a longer and much stiffer spring in the piston which in turn makes the action stiffer. If you look at the spring in your aluminum PD it is different than the one in your mule. Some folks have cut their springs down a bit, which has softened the action. I did this on my wife's Mule, but be careful to only cut a very little off at a time, you don't want to cut too much off. Oh and just so you know, the o-ring on your aluminum PD-S is a #16.

Now, on to the threads... First off, aluminum will always be smoother than titanium. That aluminum PD-S that you have and my aluminum S27 PD are way smoother than any of my Ti lights. With more use the Ti lights are getting better, but they are still a ways off from the smoothness of my aluminum lights.

Here's what I have done to smooth out the action of my Ti lights, by no means am I an expert so take what I say with a grain of salt. I have found that you need to have the o-ring and battery in place, you need the resistance that they create against the threads to make the break-in process work correctly. If you take the o-ring off and take the battery out, the head will turn much more smoothly, thus IMO, giving you a false sense of break-in progress.

As others have said, tooth paste or even comet cleaner will work as a lapping compound to help speed up the break-in process. This worked great on my wife's Mule which was very gritty and difficult for her to use. I would apply this to the threads and worth the head back and forth for a while. Take the head off clean the threads and start the process all over again. Be very careful not to over do it, you don't want to wear the threads down too much and have a lose head. When you are done with this, replace the o-ring with the extra one that I sent you. As far as lubes go, I've tried all kinds of stuff and Krytox 50/50 seems to be the best stuff out there for any of Don's lights. Hopefully this helps out or at least gives you some ideas, or maybe it made things more confusing, I don't know...:shrug:

 

[jumpstat]

Thanks for all the advice guys. The nyogel that I tried works better on the aluminium lights but makes Ti more sticky for some reason. What I will do is order some krytox from the shoppe and meanwhile I think i'll try the toothpaste advice as I have some pearlwhite heavy duty tooth polish somewhere in the bathroom....

TX, operating the aluminum PD-S is a breeze and joy. Even my wife likes the colour, size and its weight..and it transfers heat much better than the Mule...

Cheers and goodnight

 

[pianoman]

Best way......time tested.....minimalist approach.....USE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[karlthev]

I use teflon tape on both of my Ti McLux IIIs. Couldn't be any smoother. By the by--not my idea.

Karl

 

[jumpstat]

Took the toothpaste method and happy to report that after a few hours of vigorous twisting etc the grittyness has dissapeared. The action now has become much smoother but still could do with a bit more smoothness. Like pianoman said, time and usage will prevail.......

 

[TxTroubleMaker]

Once you get some Krytox 50/50 from the Shoppe, it will help smooth it out even more.

 

[jumpstat]

Once you get some Krytox 50/50 from the Shoppe, it will help smooth it out even more.

:thumbsup:+1

 

[yaesumofo]

Another vote for teflon tape. Makes the action smoth as butter in seconds. BTW I have been using MAGNALUBE on all of my flashlights for years and it is a fantastic product. It is great on threads as well as all types of O-Rings
It is cheap and ou can get a lifetime supply for $20.00 delivers from the MAGNALUBE web site. It has lots of features not the least of which is it doesn't become thin if warmed like so many other lubes.
Try it you will like it.
From their web site:


Magnalube®-G PTFE Grease deposits a fine protective and lubricating film on metal parts. It is virtually unaffected by corrosive moisture and will not migrate from hot surfaces. Magnalube®-G PTFE grease is water resistant, stable at high temperatures, resists oil separation, and is chemically and mechanically stable. The PTFE base effectively lubricates at temperatures +550 F to -45 F. The applications are unlimited.

The performance data is in. Magnalube-G is one of the best for multi-purpose greases. Magnalube-G out performs all other petroleum greases and most synthetic greases.

• Read the summary results of exhaustive testing similiar to the test data set done by the Department of Defense.
• See the case study data published by companies like Abex Corp and Pitney Bowes.
• See why Magnalube®-G is the finest lubricant money can buy.
• View the technical specifications on-line.

Evaluate our product, Magnalube-G. Take advantage of our special introductory offers on the .75 oz. tubes or 14.5 oz. cartridges of Magnalube-G. We are confident that you will be impressed with the difference in performance and cost savings of Magnalube-G over the product that you are using now.
We welcome inquiries so please contact us with your questions or

Yaesumofo

 

[jumpstat]

Is the teflon tape the ones plumbers use to seal the pipe threads?

 

[TxTroubleMaker]

Is the teflon tape the ones plumbers use to seal the pipe threads?

Yes...

 

[KenAnderson]

Yes, I've been using it as well and it works great. Only put one complete circumference wrap though cause it can become too tight otherwise.

Ken

Is the teflon tape the ones plumbers use to seal the pipe threads?

 

[jumpstat]

I know I have a bunch of these teflon tapes and I do not remember where I stashed it.....have to try it, cheap and cheerful remedy

 

[Codeman]

I know I have a bunch of these teflon tapes and I do not remember where I stashed it.....have to try it, cheap and cheerful remedy

That why I've accumulated about 5 rolls of the stuff! :sick2:

 

[karlthev]

For me, the teflon tape was by far the best--at least for my Titanium creations-- cost not a consideration. It smooths the action and certainly helps in the waterproofing arena as well. I have a box full of all sorts of lubes and I don't even remember what they cost but, for that roll of teflon tape and about 15 seconds of time, there is no comparison. I know that some folks have used all sorts of abrasives in attempts to smooth out the thread surfaces in mating parts but all I believe they accomplish is premature wear and increase the danger of the joint becoming sloppy. That said, to each his/her own.


Karl