The Official Zebralight Thread .

[ven]

SKV, the xp-l2 is quite yellow, certainly no rosy from any of the xp-l2's i have. Closest to rosy with a ZL i have found the 4500k xhp35.

The UI is decent, just program your modes so H1(1 click) becomes a low of your choice(or what ever level suits your 1 click needs). You can swap around your levels to any of the 12 in g6 and g7 groups. After you spend a little time, you might grow to love it as i do. Before giving up on the sc5c, try and use in a variety of conditions. Mine can be quite nice on the eye(sc5c mkII 4000k) at times, providing my eyes have not been contaminated to other colour temps. I have had from crazy not mellow yellow, to a softer cleaner tint. Still i prefer the lower CRI 4500k xp-l2 out of my xp-l2 offerings..................in short i dont care much for this LED and disappointed ZL are actually using it. Hi cri i dont care if the beam is off in tint, rather have a little less and a beam i can enjoy.............thats me though. I will say my sc62d's luxeon T wipes the floor in every way with the xp-l2(subjective). Clean, colours looks fine(85cri) and not yellows,blues or any other colour of the rainbow to be found.

 

[SKV89]

I just did some ceiling bounce lux measurements on the SC5w II, omg this thing maxes out much lower than the advertised 550 lumens. Here are the measurements

SC5w mkII - 44
Utorch UT01 NW - 49 (advertised as 400 lumens. I bought for $10)
Thrunite Archer 2A v2 NW - 72 (advertised as 500 lumens)

What's up with that? I thought Zebralight were one of the more reputable companies that wouldn't false advertise their lumen ratings.

 

[likethevegetable]

There's clearly a flaw in your measurement system since all of your measure are 10-20% of the specified values...

Lux and lumens are different. Think of lux as a point measurement - it's light density, or pressure. You need to add up all of the lux measurements in a sphere around the flashlight (integrate) to get lumens, just like you would add up pressure to get force. Lumens is total output. Your phone can't measure total lumens by only looking at a small segment of the beam with it's small sensor. Since lux varies (ie. Your beam has a spot/spill shape), this causes a problem. Enter ceiling bounce.

To determine lumens from lux, you need to first diffuse the initial beam to make it as uniform as possible, ie. use an integrating sphere, or an easily accessible white ceiling. This means that the lux would be the same everywhere in a sphere, so your total lumens is then just the area of a sphere multiplied by your lux measurement. This how you calibrate a lumen/lux scale factor, but to use your phone, you have to know the lumens of one light beforehand.

 

[Tachead]

I just did some ceiling bounce lux measurements on the SC5w II, omg this thing maxes out much lower than the advertised 550 lumens. Here are the measurements

SC5w mkII - 44
Utorch UT01 NW - 49 (advertised as 400 lumens. I bought for $10)
Thrunite Archer 2A v2 NW - 72 (advertised as 500 lumens)

What's up with that? I thought Zebralight were one of the more reputable companies that wouldn't false advertise their lumen ratings.

Your method of measurement is notoriously inaccurate. Different beam profiles, different CCT's, your measuring device, and other factors will all throw off your measurements. Ceiling bounce works ok for making runtime output graphs but, that is the only thing it is really good for. Even the readings from a calibrated light box with an actual light meter should be taken with a grain of salt. The only way to get accurate lumen measurements is with a well calibrated NIST certified integrating sphere and they cost $10000+.

 

[SKV89]

There's clearly a flaw in your measurement system since all of your measure are 10-20% of the specified values...

Lux and lumens are different. Think of lux as a point measurement - it's light density, or pressure. You need to add up all of the lux measurements in a sphere around the flashlight (integrate) to get lumens, just like you would add up pressure to get force. Lumens is total output. Your phone can't measure total lumens by only looking at a small segment of the beam with it's small sensor. Since lux varies (ie. Your beam has a spot/spill shape), this causes a problem. Enter ceiling bounce.

To determine lumens from lux, you need to first diffuse the initial beam to make it as uniform as possible, ie. use an integrating sphere, or an easily accessible white ceiling. This means that the lux would be the same everywhere in a sphere, so your total lumens is then just the area of a sphere multiplied by your lux measurement. This how you calibrate a lumen/lux scale factor, but to use your phone, you have to know the lumens of one light beforehand.

I think you completely misunderstand me. I'm just giving a relative comparison. I am not presenting to you the lumen measurements. The SC5w appears dimmer to my eyes than the other two lights so I did a ceiling bounce lux test. Also, the ceiling bounce lux test would be more advantageous to less floody lights like the SC5w However the other two lights that are much floodier than the SC5w measured higher lux rating. Also the UT01 is much warmer tinted than the SC5w so it is again at a disadvantage. If it was actual lumen ratings in an integrated sphere, I am sure SC5w would be fair much worst compared to the other two.

 

[likethevegetable]

I think you completely misunderstand me. I'm just giving a relative comparison. I am not presenting to you the lumen measurements. The SC53 appears dimmer to my eyes than the other two lights so I did a ceiling bounce lux test. Also, the ceiling bounce lux test would be more advantageous to less floody lights like the SC53. However the other two lights that are much floodier than the SC53 measured higher lux rating. Also the UT01 is much warmer tinted than the SC53 so it is again at a disadvantage. If it was actual lumen ratings in an integrated sphere, I am sure SC53 would be fair much worst compared to the other two.

Yes I certainly did misunderstand. Fair enough, relative comparisons can be useful - but your method of diffusing the beam is a ceiling which is pretty unreliable. Do you have an SC53 or SC5w.. big difference between the max outputs..

 

[SKV89]

SC5W mkii rated at 550 lumens not SC53. I edited my previous post (typed too fast)

 

[mightysparrow]

I might as well contribute my impressions of the SC64w that arrived yesterday, after ordering it late last week during the few days when this light was in stock at ZL. Please take my comments in light of the fact that this SC64w is an upgrade from my SC62w - I have not owned a SC63 or SC63w.

I am very pleased with the SC64w. I have just tested the beams of the 62w and 64w side by side, after reading the comments in posts just above this one. It seems to me as a result of these brief and unscientific "eyeballing" tests that the overall beam diameter of the two lights is very similar - however, the 64w seems to have a larger, more diffuse hot-spot - not much of a hot-spot, really. I don't know that the 62w actually throws farther than the 64w, as claimed by other posters, because I have only tested the two lights inside, in a relatively small area. The 64w definitely has more efficiency and overall output power than the 62w - no doubt about that. The difference is significant, as claimed by ZL, although I have no means of measuring output precisely.

I am very happy with the beam tint in the 64w, which is a very neutral white similar to the 62w. I see no green, and only maybe a hint of purple in the spill - but not enough to distract me or be noticeable in use of the light. The fit and finish of the 64w is superb - the anodizing, which is a bit darker than the 62w, looks even, and the black clip looks good in my opinion. The button feels great - nice and firm - not too mushy. The threads were lubed upon arrival - only a little grit which I cleaned off before re-lubing the threads and o-ring. I like the smaller length of the 64w compared to the 62w - even if the newer model has a slightly wider front end.

The 64w will be my new daily commuting light - ready to help me walk to and from the bus stops in the dark, walk out of a dark subway tunnel after a breakdown, or walk many miles home from work at night in the event of a civil emergency. The engineering, quality and performance of my Zebralights makes them tools I would not want to have to live without. I think they're the best value I can find for my use, and I feel darn lucky to have them.

 

[likethevegetable]

I might as well contribute my impressions of the SC64w that arrived yesterday, after ordering it late last week during the few days when this light was in stock at ZL. Please take my comments in light of the fact that this SC64w is an upgrade from my SC62w - I have not owned a SC63 or SC63w.

I am very pleased with the SC64w. I have just tested the beams of the 62w and 64w side by side, after reading the comments in posts just above this one. It seems to me as a result of these brief and unscientific "eyeballing" tests that the overall beam diameter of the two lights is very similar - however, the 64w seems to have a larger, more diffuse hot-spot - not much of a hot-spot, really. I don't know that the 62w actually throws farther than the 64w, as claimed by other posters, because I have only tested the two lights inside, in a relatively small area. The 64w definitely has more efficiency and overall output power than the 62w - no doubt about that. The difference is significant, as claimed by ZL, although I have no means of measuring output precisely.

I am very happy with the beam tint in the 64w, which is a very neutral white similar to the 62w. I see no green, and only maybe a hint of purple in the spill - but not enough to distract me or be noticeable in use of the light. The fit and finish of the 64w is superb - the anodizing, which is a bit darker than the 62w, looks even, and the black clip looks good in my opinion. The button feels great - nice and firm - not too mushy. The threads were lubed upon arrival - only a little grit which I cleaned off before re-lubing the threads and o-ring. I like the smaller length of the 64w compared to the 62w - even if the newer model has a slightly wider front end.

The 64w will be my new daily commuting light - ready to help me walk to and from the bus stops in the dark, walk out of a dark subway tunnel after a breakdown, or walk many miles home from work at night in the event of a civil emergency. The engineering, quality and performance of my Zebralights makes them tools I would not want to have to live without. I think they're the best value I can find for my use, and I feel darn lucky to have them.

Thanks for the info, very well written.

Zebralights just have that certain quality about them. Anytime I get something new, I always think of ways I would have designed it or how I could improve it.

When I got my first ZL, I immediately recognized the masterful design and that there is no way I could ever conceive a better product. Kind of humbling to own such a cool piece of technology and engineering.

 

[anthon87]

I just did some ceiling bounce lux measurements on the SC5w II, omg this thing maxes out much lower than the advertised 550 lumens. Here are the measurements

SC5w mkII - 44
Utorch UT01 NW - 49 (advertised as 400 lumens. I bought for $10)
Thrunite Archer 2A v2 NW - 72 (advertised as 500 lumens)

What's up with that? I thought Zebralight were one of the more reputable companies that wouldn't false advertise their lumen ratings.

I should receive a SC5W II in a week or two, I'll make some measurements in my integrating sphere

Looks like Zebralight has over measured the lumens in these last gen lights.

My SC600w HI IV should make 1400 /875lms and only makes 1050/650 and I'm not the only one with these numbers, all the owners say that the IV is less bright than the III and the III makes 1120lm...

 

[wweiss]

Perfectly happy with my III.
Just wish the spill was wider and brighter - Olight with their S2R Baton has a perfect spill - the III center spot, however is excellent. The local Coyotes think much less of it, but my dog likes the beam punch...

 

[Bob_McBob]

Response from ZL about overheating springs and PID output ringing in current generation 18650 lights.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1281808#comment-1281808

 

[vadimax]

I just did some ceiling bounce lux measurements on the SC5w II, omg this thing maxes out much lower than the advertised 550 lumens. Here are the measurements

SC5w mkII - 44
Utorch UT01 NW - 49 (advertised as 400 lumens. I bought for $10)
Thrunite Archer 2A v2 NW - 72 (advertised as 500 lumens)

What's up with that? I thought Zebralight were one of the more reputable companies that wouldn't false advertise their lumen ratings.

This reminds me old Russian anecdote (P - pilot, T - technician):

P: Technician, gauges!
T: 220!
P: 220 of what?!
T: What gauges?!

 

[recDNA]

I have the 64 cw and the 62w. I much prefer the beam profile of the 62w. I am carrying the 64 since I laid out the $ for 2 batteries for it (VTC6 & GA) but I don't know how long that will last. I wish H2 were a little brighter. I really miss having a hotspot even a short range to help me search for an object like a microscope slide cover slip that fell on the floor. With the total flood I just couldn't see it. The 64 is super bright on H1 but I just would like a hotspot. I wish they had an MK1V Hi option for the 64 to get some hotspot. The real MKIV Hi is too fat for me to carry comfortably. I'm sure I will end up carrying the 62w again once the newness wears off.

 

[evgeniy]

Response from ZL about overheating springs and PID output ringing in current generation 18650 lights.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1281808#comment-1281808

spring isn't a problem in all modes, except H1. And we can use any 18650 battery in these headlamps, it's important point.
thanks, Zebralight.
(2 caps, 1st universal, with long spring, and 2nd special cap with pins for 65mm unprotected, will be better, but 2 caps costs more money).

 

[Tachead]

I have the 64 cw and the 62w. I much prefer the beam profile of the 62w. I am carrying the 64 since I laid out the $ for 2 batteries for it (VTC6 & GA) but I don't know how long that will last. I wish H2 were a little brighter. I really miss having a hotspot even a short range to help me search for an object like a microscope slide cover slip that fell on the floor. With the total flood I just couldn't see it. The 64 is super bright on H1 but I just would like a hotspot. I wish they had an MK1V Hi option for the 64 to get some hotspot. The real MKIV Hi is too fat for me to carry comfortably. I'm sure I will end up carrying the 62w again once the newness wears off.

I am not sure where you are getting this no hotspot thing. I have 2 x SC64's(w & c) and both have a very defined hotspot. It is a large hotspot but still much smaller then many other lights. It is no where near "total flood" even the frosted lens ZL's aren't total flood and still have somewhat of a hotspot albeit highly diffused. If you want an example of total flood try one of ZL's "flood" models like the H502 or H604 series.

 

[recDNA]

I am not sure where you are getting this no hotspot thing. I have 2 x SC64's(w & c) and both have a very defined hotspot. It is a large hotspot but still much smaller then many other lights. It is no where near "total flood" even the frosted lens ZL's aren't total flood and still have somewhat of a hotspot albeit highly diffused. If you want an example of total flood try one of ZL's "flood" models like the H502 or H604 series.

I can see the hotspot against a wall from 3 feet. On the marked up hardwood floor It was too big to be useful discerning an edge. If a hotspot is that big to my eyes it is all flood. In a well lit room the spill was probably invisible so what I am calling all flood is essentially the huge hotspot. There is no question the 62 has a more visible hotspot.

In the dark pointing the 64 at my house from my car maybe 10m it lights up the entire front of the house and again I see no hotspot. It may be measurably there using instruments but definitely not visible to my eyes. If it were a giant flat white wall maybe I could see it but that isn't real life use.

 

[Tachead]

I can see the hotspot against a wall from 3 feet. On the marked up hardwood floor It was too big to be useful discerning an edge. If a hotspot is that big to my eyes it is all flood. In a well lit room the spill was probably invisible so what I am calling all flood is essentially the huge hotspot. There is no question the 62 has a more visible hotspot.

In the dark pointing the 64 at my house from my car maybe 10m it lights up the entire front of the house and again I see no hotspot. It may be measurably there using instruments but definitely not visible to my eyes. If it were a giant flat white wall maybe I could see it but that isn't real life use.

Imo the SC64 has the perfect beam profile for close to medium range use. I have no trouble using it for a variety of tasks. It is perfect for close up tasks but, still has a reasonable amount of throw for medium range stuff. Personally, I hate a tight defined hotspot for close up tasks and think it is much harder to use in this application unlike the more even lighting the 64's provide. This is part of the reason I sent the HI back. This just shows that we all have our own set of preferences.

Yes, the 62's have a slightly tighter hotspot. Most users mentioned that difference when they upgraded.

This shot is at more then 10 meters and you can clearly see the hotspot but, yes it is large.

 

[recDNA]

Response from ZL about overheating springs and PID output ringing in current generation 18650 lights.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1281808#comment-1281808

I'd like to reply to them the GA they favor is available in protected format. I'd also like to ask if my sc64 gets dangerously hot spring on H1? I use H1 frequently for 5-10 minutes at a time.

 

[Tachead]

I'd like to reply to them the GA they favor is available in protected format. I'd also like to ask if my sc64 gets dangerously hot spring on H1? I use H1 frequently for 5-10 minutes at a time.

It doesn't.

I have run multiple 30 minute runtime tests on H1 with no external cooling at 24C ambient temperature on both the 64c&d. My tail springs look good as new and have noticed no issues whatsoever with the tailcap or spring. I am pretty sure the guy that started that thread about the H600Fc is blowing the spring temperature way out of proportion. He is the only person that has even mentioned it out of the many people that have reviewed that light. If there was an issue with the spring it would become discolored and/or break and I am sure ZL would have noticed it when testing the new model.