The Quark lights thread!

[Vox Clamatis in Deserto]

Ever since my wife redid the kitchen with tile floors, every light, laser, iPod and cell phone seems to get drop tested off the kitchen table onto a very hard surface. I really like having the clip on the Q123, it stops the table roll and isn't obnoxiously large like on the latest Ra lights.

This Q123 is a real pocket rocket, almost as bright as a Nitcore Extreme but smaller with a better beam. I've been carrying the Nitecore Extreme head with a Surefire E1B body, looks like the Q123 will be my new EDC light.

One thing I noticed was that after maybe 5 - 10 minutes of total use on max the light level would drop and I would have to turn it off and back on. This was on the included 4Sevens battery and knock on wood hasn't happened yet with the Surefire and Battery Station cells I've been using.

I had exactly the same experience with one of my unbranded blue RCR123's. Another AW RCR123 runs fine on high. Not sure if it's a thermal cutoff, voltage cutoff or what. The RCR that cuts out seems to recharge in just a few minutes indicating that maybe it's lost it's capacity or maybe it was still almost fully charged when the cutoff occurred. Anyone else seem this quick cutoff on high with some batteries?

 

[DHart]

For the person wanting a Quark that will run on both CR123/RCR123 ~and~ AA/14500, they could buy a Q123 and add a AA body, or, buy a QAA and add a 123 body and achieve this result, right?

If the 123 and AA heads are the same (are they?), then the difference between these two approaches seems, perhaps, to be in clip functionality? Or not... I don't know.

Can anyone explain how (if) the functionality of the clip would differ in these two scenarios:

1) Q123 w/ AA body

2) QAAA w/ 123 body

? Also wondering if the clip that comes with the 123 is the same with same attachment mechanism as the clip that comes with the AA?

 

[LightWalker]

Has anyone tried a 17670 battery in the Quark 2X 123 light yet?

 

[bodhran]

I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks the clickie is a little stiff. A friend was looking for a good light for his elderly mother and I had told him about the Quark, but I think the clickie may give her some trouble. As for myself, I love the light. Have the AA and just ordered a 2AA tube. Since I had already bought a bunch of eneloops for the Tk40, figured I might as well stay with the AAs. I hope 4 sevens will be including holters as an accessory for folks getting the different configurations.

 

[jhc37013]

I took wish the clicky was a little less stiff, other than that I'm really liking it.

 

[bewshy]

Was that a special request to have it clipless? I just ordered the 123 tube for my AA - not sure how that's going to work out with the clip use.

No. I just selected the "no clip" item on their page.

 

[loanshark]

For the person wanting a Quark that will run on both CR123/RCR123 ~and~ AA/14500, they could buy a Q123 and add a AA body, or, buy a QAA and add a 123 body and achieve this result, right?

If the 123 and AA heads are the same (are they?), then the difference between these two approaches seems, perhaps, to be in clip functionality? Or not... I don't know.

Can anyone explain how (if) the functionality of the clip would differ in these two scenarios:

1) Q123 w/ AA body

2) QAAA w/ 123 body

? Also wondering if the clip that comes with the 123 is the same with same attachment mechanism as the clip that comes with the AA?

Correct.

The AA Quark clip is attached to the body. The cr123 Quark clip is ~permanently attached to the head, unless you go clipless. I bought the AA, if I get the 123 body I will have a clipless Q 123... It'd be interesting to see what the 123 with the clip looks like with the AA body.

 

[DHart]

Correct.

The AA Quark clip is attached to the body. The cr123 Quark clip is ~permanently attached to the head, unless you go clipless. I bought the AA, if I get the 123 body I will have a clipless Q 123... It'd be interesting to see what the 123 with the clip looks like with the AA body.

I guess the most versatile approach would be to buy the QAA (so you could go with or without clip as desired) and add a 123 body (I presume when you get a 123 body, it is without clip).

Is it possible to remove the clip from the Q123 without affecting any other aspect of the light's function? Can the clip be reinstalled? Or is the clip pretty much a permanent feature on the 123 head?

 

[matrixshaman]

Since the AA clip is removable would it be possible to put it on the 123 body if you buy the 123 body separate? I guess I'll know in a couple days but I'm wondering if that isn't possible although you might lengthen the 123 setup a bit.

 

[qip]

good chance of going retail , why would you need store shelves hook holes :naughty:

 

[bodhran]

I they do go retail I hope they are selective about who they sell through. I shudder to think about hearing a blue light special on Quark flashlights, or one of these .

 

[WadeF]

Now that I know a 14500 used in the Quark 1xAA body is the same output as a Quark 2xAA or 1xCR123 I might have to pick one up. That would give me bezel down carry with the clip.

 

[DHart]

Now that I know a 14500 used in the Quark 1xAA body is the same output as a Quark 2xAA or 1xCR123 I might have to pick one up. That would give me bezel down carry with the clip.

Gotta love the power of a li-ion! Given the clip versatility, the QAA definitely has an edge over the Q123, even with the longer length. I have a feeling after I have my opportunity during the pass-around that I'll be getting a QAA and a 123 body. :shrug:

 

[Vox Clamatis in Deserto]

Given the clip versatility, the QAA definitely has an edge over the Q123, even with the longer length.

Sure, if can get past the fact that it's about half as bright, the QAA is the light for you.

But as you observe, it should be just as bright on a 14500. I might get the Q2AA for my brother in law, he's a ship captain and I hate to have him looking for CR123's at retail prices.

 

[KiwiMark]

Sure, if can get past the fact that it's about half as bright, the QAA is the light for you.

But as you observe, it should be just as bright on a 14500. I might get the Q2AA for my brother in law, he's a ship captain and I hate to have him looking for CR123's at retail prices.

I use a protected 14500 in my EDC and really like that configuration. My other EDC uses a protected 16340 - no real difference. The big advantage of the AA is that you can run it off what is probably the most commonly available battery in the world if you have to. If you are away from home and your 14500 cells are flat you still have a working light if you can get to any shop that sells AA batteries - a 4 pack of Energiser lithiums will run that light for a long time.

 

[DHart]

Sure, if can get past the fact that it's about half as bright, the QAA is the light for you.

The QAA is not half as bright as the Q123.... apparently, it can be just as bright and also offer many more powering option possibilities.

As for myself, I run protected 14500's in all of the AA-size lights I have that are able to run on a li-ion (D10, ConneXion X2, AKOray K-106), so personally, I'm comparing the QAA running a 14500 to the Q123 with 16340. And output/runtime in that comparison doesn't seem like there will be much difference, if any.

In that comparison, the QAA gives you reversible clip that's also removeable. Apparently, you can't do that with the Q123. Beyond that, the QAA will not only run on protected 14500 li-ions (which have capacities on par or possibly slightly beyond 16340 li-ions) but in a pinch, can be run with an L91 Lithium primary, AA-size NiMH Eneloop, or plain old AA Alkaline if that's all you can get your hands on. Makes the light a much better choice if there is any possibility of needing to buy batteries while away from home. Don't get me wrong about RCR123 lights, though, I love them and have a bunch of them. But there is a much more versatility offered by the QAA than by the Q123.

 

[Screwball]

Forgive the stupid question but what effect will running the 14500 have on the led itself (overheating etc).I am really keen to get the one AA version as I have a ton of rechargeable AA around the house but if it's ok I would invest in a couple of these batteries for the increased output

 

[4sevens]

Forgive the stupid question but what effect will running the 14500 have on the led itself (overheating etc).I am really keen to get the one AA version as I have a ton of rechargeable AA around the house but if it's ok I would invest in a couple of these batteries for the increased output

Unlike many (boost) lights out there that claim 14500 compatibility, they rely on the Vf of the LED to be high - even then the first few minutes the LED could see 1.5A potentially causing damage to the LED.

The Quark AA uses a buck/boost circuit which properly regulates the current one ALL levels. So using a 1.5v primary or a 4.2v 14500 gives the SAME current to the LED. The only difference is the MAX output on 1.5v is limited to 90 lumens where the 14500 can do a solid 170 lumens. But that 170 lumens is a regulated output. It does not send dangerous amounts of current to the LED for the first 5 minutes and then settle down. It maintains 170 lumens constantly.

 

[oldpal]

The Quark AA uses a buck/boost circuit which properly regulates the current one ALL levels. So using a 1.5v primary or a 4.2v 14500 gives the SAME current to the LED. The only difference is the MAX output on 1.5v is limited to 90 lumens where the 14500 can do a solid 170 lumens.

David, I don't understand this. The output of the LED is determined by the current flowing through it, which is supplied by the output (or secondary) of the driver. If the Quark current regulating driver supplies the same current to the LED using either 1.5v or 4.2v batteries, why is MAX for 1.5v 90 lumens not 170 lumens? Maybe the 1.5v cells can't produce the required max output current with the Quark driver. Is this true?

Hugh

 

[4sevens]

David, I don't understand this. The output of the LED is determined by the current flowing through it, which is supplied by the output (or secondary) of the driver. If the Quark current regulating driver supplies the same current to the LED using either 1.5v or 4.2v batteries, why is MAX for 1.5v 90 lumens not 170 lumens? Maybe the 1.5v cells can't produce the required max output current with the Quark driver. Is this true?

Hugh

Thats exactly it. At 1.5v it drops out of pure regulation and the runtime graph is progresses like a gentle ski slope. All the other modes medium and lower will be in regulation. You won't find a 1.5v flashlight pushing more than 300-350ma - it's impossible with a single AA. Remember the boost circuit is multiplying the voltage nearly 3x.

Hypothetically, if the circuit was 100% efficient, 1.5v in and 3.0v out means double the current. Then if the input voltage drops say to 1.1v under load, you easily have to triple the draw. So 300ma turns into 900ma at the battery. I've never seen a 1.5v circuit be more efficient than 70% under high current. So you're probably seeing over 1A at the battery.

Now with a li-ion 4.2v, the voltage is higher than the Vf, so the buck part of the circuit kicks in. The draw from the battery is actually LESS than the current through the LED, so the battery is not working as hard.

I hope this helps.