The Ultimate L1 (UL1)

c0t0d0s0

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This is the L1 Lumamax - taken all the way. I call it the UL1.

27_general.jpg


In short... The emitter has been replaced with Cree XR-E P4 WD tint behind a hand-cut McR-27XR reflector, driven by a Downboy 1000, with the body bored out to allow the usage of 2xCR123, 2 RCR123, or a single 17670 cell for maximum flexibility. The emitter was hand picked for low Vf to ensure longer runtime at maximum brightness when driven by a single li-ion cell. The tailcap has also been modded with a different resistor and also to gain a couple extra millimiters that allow a 17670 cell to fit, which is a bit longer than a pair or CR123's.

Pictures of the mod:

Stock headless body, with the top of the converter module showing up.




Stock converter pryed out... note its length, comparable to that of a single CR123 cell.



The inside of the stock tube...


Say hello to Mr. Dremel! I also used a hand reamer to bore out the inside of the tube to 17.1mm, which now allows to fit protected AW cells in - either 2x RCR123 or a single 17670.



That's the AW 17670 cell in the middle - with the label removed.


The 3 parts of the L1 head - and the Downboy soldered to the contact plate, ready for installation


Another shot of the Downboy.



Slight dremeling was also required here to make the converter seat properly.




Back of the head after potting the converter.



The other side of the heatsink. The emitter glued in using Arctic Silver adhesive (none of that cheap Arctic Alumina crap :)). A nod goes to Milkyspit for dremeling the poop out of the head to make room for the Cree emitter, as this was previously an ML1.



The McR-27xr - along with the hacked off piece




some dremeling and sanding was required...




...to fit it in the head properly, making sure that the emitter was in proper focus.



The Mcr-27XR has a pretty big opening, and the emitter with all the wires was showing through - not a pretty sight. I came up with a GITD piece to cover it up.




The complete bezel... The stock lens has been replaced with a 22.8mm UCL glass from flashlightlens.com. There's a flat o-ring sandwiched between the lens and the reflector to ensure waterproofness.



The complete UL1. I'd say it looks pretty badass!



The GITD ring doing its thing.



Beamshots! Note the total absense of the infamous Dark Cree Ring of Doom. Proper focusing of the emitter in the reflector is the key.



Another beamshot with F04 diffuser on.


The dim yellow light on the left is a 6PD with a P60 on fresh batteries. Note the difference in sidespill!



Same thing, slightly underexposed to show sidespill.



The UL1 is again on the right, my other custom light on the left - that's an SSC P4 @700mA behind a shaved McR-27L. Note the difference in side spill, which is not really surprising.




This is UL1 on low - using a 68 Ohm resistor in the tailcap. Same light on the left. The output is still brighter than the L1 originally used to have... I'd say 3-5 lumens.



The light now puts out what looks like at least 150-170 honest lumens in a flawless ringless beam, with a nice intense hotspot and lots of sidespill... The SSC P4 behind a full size McR27L still throws better, but the difference is not that big at all! I was surprised to see that much throw from a Cree. The beamshots don't do it justice.

I get 1 1/2 hour of what looks to be regulated runtime out of a single 17670 cell, which I think is pretty good. It gets noticeably warm during continuous use, but there is no color shift which I was afraid of when driving the emitter at its maximum rated current. Basically, it's an L2 killer in a smaller package, with better throw and better runtime, and which is able to take rechargeables... It's now back at its duty as my EDC light, replacing the Seoul'ed Fenix L1P :devil:
 
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Alin10123

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Wow! What a sweet mod. You essentially kept the stock form but enabled longer runtime.
Will 2xcr123's fry anything? The voltage would be at least 6 volts.
Is this a milkyspit mod? or did you do this yourself?
 

c0t0d0s0

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Alin10123 said:
Wow! What a sweet mod. You essentially kept the stock form but enabled longer runtime.
Will 2xcr123's fry anything? The voltage would be at least 6 volts.
Is this a milkyspit mod? or did you do this yourself?

This mod is very flexible in terms of power options. Downboy can take up to 16V of input voltage... You can feed this light with 1 li-ion cell, 2 primaries, or 2 li-ions without frying anything, and (with a low Vf emitter) it will run in regulation in every case.

All work with the exception of the dremel job on the heatsink was done by myself.
 

matrixshaman

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Very nice mod to an already great light. I'm trying to figure out the difference in pics where you show the Mcr-27XR with a big hole in it with GITD goop added then the next pic looks like there is no hole - just a nice fitting stippled reflector. Is that the same Mcr-27XR? Where did the hole go? Probably just confused here but either way a very nice job.
 

ja10

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Very nice light. I've thought about doing the same thing to mine.

Why did you use the 27xr reflector? Doesn't McGizmo make a 20mm that would fit with a lot less hassle?
 

c0t0d0s0

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A 20mm? What's the fun in that? :D

Seriously though, I had one laying around so I wondered if I could make it fit... and it worked out pretty nicely!
 

ja10

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Ah, okay. I thought that might be the reason. If I decide to do this myself, I'll go ahead and order the 20 though :).

Do you have any comparative outdoor beamshots?
 

c0t0d0s0

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ja10 said:
Ah, okay. I thought that might be the reason. If I decide to do this myself, I'll go ahead and order the 20 though :).

Do you have any comparative outdoor beamshots?

Nah I suck at outdoor beamshots. Might try to snap some later tonight though...

I suspect that if you go with Seoul instead, McR-20S might fit... and you won't have to make any modifications to the heatsink this way... just a thought.
 

ja10

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c0t0d0s0 said:
Nah I suck at outdoor beamshots. Might try to snap some later tonight though...

I suspect that if you go with Seoul instead, McR-20S might fit... and you won't have to make any modifications to the heatsink this way... just a thought.

That is what I would use. I put a SSC P4 in my L1 a couple weeks ago, so hopefully it would just be a matter of ordering the 20mm Seoul reflector and the Downboy converter.
 
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KDOG3

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Bump, for this awesome thread! I've got a L1 on the way that I'm putting a seoul in. I may do other things like this!
 

KDOG3

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I've ordered a Downboy500 for mine for increased runtime. I'm going to keep the stock optic though for throw.
 

c0t0d0s0

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Thanks for the feedback everyone :D

Here's the runtime/brightness plot of the light - compared to a stock Gladius.

ul1vsglad.gif
 

c0t0d0s0

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When driven by a single li-ion cell, input voltage is too close to the Vf of the emitter: at 1A, the voltage at the emitter is around 3.5-3.6V. A li-ion cell hot off the charger produces 4.2V, and quickly drops to around 3.7V. As a result, on a single 17670 cell the Downboy, which is a buck converter, stays in flat regulation for 30 minutes or so, then the supply voltage drops below the Vf of the emitter, and the converter drops out of regulation and essentially goes direct drive as the cell continues to discharge.

In about 1:40, the light loses only 18% of brightness, which is not even noticeable without a light meter... When you actually notice that the light is dimming, the battery is basically 90% empty... so it's all good.

At low current levels, overdischarde protection circuit in AW cells doesn't kick in until the voltage drops to 2.4V, if i'm not mistaken. I terminated the test before that - the battery measured around 2.7V at the end of the test, at which point the light produced like 0.5 lumens :D

On 2 li-ion cells, the input voltage is always greater than the Vf of the emitter, so the light always stays in regulation and gives the user no warning whatsoever before the protection circuit kicks in and cuts the power.
 
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