If that socket is ceramic (hard to tell whether plastic or ceramic from the picture... oh wait, it's ceramic and aluminum, isn't it?* And the reflector is already Aluminum? Glass lens already installed?! VERY nice flashlight),
and you replace the reflector with aluminum and get a glass lens, you can run (page linked above) either or both
G4 Bi-pin WA01331-U (9.6V, 2A) $10 Each
(13 AVAILABLE) (Use 9 Eneloop or 3 protected)
G4 Bi-pin WA01318-U (9.6V, 2A) $10 Each
(50 AVAILABLE) (Use 9 Eneloop or 3 protected)
for about
150-180Lm (see below, more like 800Lm) for up to
a hour and 15 minutes. (see below, more like 2.5hrs on UH2655 cells)
But I think that socket may accept G6.35 bulbs also, which gets interesting, just on fivemega's super bulb page you could underdrive either
Osram Bi-pin G6.35 64625 (12V, 100W) $6 Each
(6 AVAILABLE)(Use 10 Hi current NiMH)
Osram Bi-pin G6.35 64610 (12V, 50W) $6 Each
(4 AVAILABLE)(Use 10 Hi current NiMH)
for a pretty bright flashlight, but hard to say how bright, maybe
500-1100Lm for 15 minutes (
much brighter,
2500+Lm, for maybe 40m with UH2655) with the 100W
if the switch can handle 8A, and
30 minutes an hour at
maybe 1000Lm with the 50W,
again if the switch can handle 5A. (I am sure it must.)
Or find a different G6.35 lamp, like
Osram 64430 for
600-700Lm and
maybe 20 minutes at 9V for 40-45 minutes of runtime on UH2655 cells. It's over 7A at 9V,
so the switch may need upgraded,
but would definitely need a glass lens and Al reflector (these come up on eBay, a couple just sold in the last week or so), but at 11.1V w/ 3 UH2655 cells at least 8.11A for over 1366Lm (chart already linked in first sentence of this paragraph) for up to 40 minutes of runtime.
There are G4 and G6.35 base LED bipin replacements for Halogen lamps,
lots and lots of them, but I can't tell you anything about them, though I strongly suspect they are cheap and produce crummy light.
* I think I have that same socket
I think that light IS a vintage Maglite 3D (might be able to date it with the serial number on the side using the charts
here), and it is most likely already set up for hotwire. Converting it to LED would be a total waste, IMO. You should
research 6V 12V G4 and G6.35 base halogen lamps and
overdrive at 9V or underdrive 12V /just run 12V. Probably want to get new Eneloops, though those Sanyos probably are Eneloops, they may have been abused and overdischarged, affecting how many amps they can put out.
If you want to sell that light to me, let me know what you want for it, or I can buy a new LED 3D Maglite for you and we can trade. I've been researching building that very light for the last couple weeks, bothering fivemega and bykfixer about it. LOL Pretty.
You should keep it though, and run halogen with three
Keeppower UH2655 IMR16650 for the full 12V (well, 11.1V), with a (short I think 20mm?) dummy insert to complete the circuit, cut a PVC sleeve that fits the body and cells so the cells won't rattle, and find the right 1200Lm - 3000Lm / 3A - 5A halogen bipin lamp for an hour or so of runtime. With 3 of those KP cells you could run either
G4 Bi-pin WA01331-U (9.6V, 2A) $10 Each
(13 AVAILABLE) (Use 9 Eneloop or 3 protected)
G4 Bi-pin WA01318-U (9.6V, 2A) $10 Each
(50 AVAILABLE) (Use 9 Eneloop or 3 protected)
for 2.5 hours at ~800Lm with the
1331 and probably about the same for the 1318 (on UH2655). Just need the lamp, cells, dummy and sleeve. I guess you might get almost an hour with 9 Eneloops on these last 2 bulbs.
I am sorry I did not examine your images closely at first. You've got a set up with those cell caddies for 7.2V (9V? nominally) and 12V proper. Whomever sold you that really set you up. I think it would be a terrible shame to convert it to LED, and I'm not even sure how it could be done. The Maglite LED guys here might know, but I would have an argument for them about the futility of messing with the essence of things. That is an
a priori incan.
