Juggernaut
Flashlight Enthusiast
Today my friend was over and we were out bashing on some dead trees with my sledgehammer, his cold steel Brooklyn Smasher, and my Dead On-Annihilator. Any who we finally found a dead oak, who's wood had petrified to the point of concrete:eeksign:. Even the Annihilator's claw bunched off it's trunk. Well we could have left good enough alone, but I pulled out by Cold Steel Pocket Bushmen and carefully stabbed at it with my fingers in it's Para cord so as not to have them slip off:tinfoil:. After a few heavy blows we finally got it roughly ¾ of an inch in. That's when I started to get a bit carried away……:devil:
First I knew I had the weaker "notched" model so I knew at some point I would buy a new version anyways, so loss of this one wasn't the end of the world "been carrying it for 10 months".
So first we nailed it in over and over again with the bat "remember this is a folder:huh:!". About one and one half inches in it became so difficult we pulled out the sledge:naughty:. After a few hard whacks the spring came out the back. At this point I gave it all I had "lock still holding:thinking:!". This is were the entire rear of the lock snapped off:duck: "part that holds the rear bolt, and you pull on to open the knife". However the knife was still locked solid:thinking:! Even with no spring or rear lock assembly:laughing:!
This is were we really got crazy…..:devil:
Now the knife was wedged about 2 and a half inches deep and was so solid it could support our weight. For the last test of abuse we took the sledge and hammered down on the handle:duck:. Now we would fine the truth about just how strong the locking mechanism really is:rock:. According to Cold Steel the only way it can fail is either the rotating pin will shear or the blade will creak in half. I didn't believe either of these things could happen, and perhaps CS never tested their knife hard enough:nana:, but I found the weak link and as incredible as it is, I knew what would happen.
That's right, the solid one piece 1.5 mm 420 SS actually ripped open at the top of the knife! To imagine the force needed to tear such a malleable piece of steel "unlike hard brittle high carbon steels" is just crazy:shakehead, but that's what finally gave out. So now I examined my knife missing it's rear section of the lock, the spring, the spring guide, and a torn handle:help:. I pulled it out off the tree with a few more hits with the hammer and it's blade swinged limply from it's handle:mecry:, But Alas! Like the Toyota Hilux from Top Gear that could not be killed. The same could be said for my knife:twothumbs! I took the still existing top section of the lock, and pushed it into the handle, just like new! The blade locked up firmly with no wiggle! Infect the lock was so distorted from my abuse that it had enough of a dent it that is will actually stay under the blade no mater how much I rattle the knife around:thumbsup:! To close the knife simply pull back hard on the top of the lock with your thumb, this will disengage the share and close the blade, then repress the lock in with the blade closed to lock it down. Thus even though my knife is missing almost all of it's components it still works! Granted it will no longer withstand sledgehammer blows, it will work just like it did before.
First I knew I had the weaker "notched" model so I knew at some point I would buy a new version anyways, so loss of this one wasn't the end of the world "been carrying it for 10 months".
So first we nailed it in over and over again with the bat "remember this is a folder:huh:!". About one and one half inches in it became so difficult we pulled out the sledge:naughty:. After a few hard whacks the spring came out the back. At this point I gave it all I had "lock still holding:thinking:!". This is were the entire rear of the lock snapped off:duck: "part that holds the rear bolt, and you pull on to open the knife". However the knife was still locked solid:thinking:! Even with no spring or rear lock assembly:laughing:!
This is were we really got crazy…..:devil:
Now the knife was wedged about 2 and a half inches deep and was so solid it could support our weight. For the last test of abuse we took the sledge and hammered down on the handle:duck:. Now we would fine the truth about just how strong the locking mechanism really is:rock:. According to Cold Steel the only way it can fail is either the rotating pin will shear or the blade will creak in half. I didn't believe either of these things could happen, and perhaps CS never tested their knife hard enough:nana:, but I found the weak link and as incredible as it is, I knew what would happen.
That's right, the solid one piece 1.5 mm 420 SS actually ripped open at the top of the knife! To imagine the force needed to tear such a malleable piece of steel "unlike hard brittle high carbon steels" is just crazy:shakehead, but that's what finally gave out. So now I examined my knife missing it's rear section of the lock, the spring, the spring guide, and a torn handle:help:. I pulled it out off the tree with a few more hits with the hammer and it's blade swinged limply from it's handle:mecry:, But Alas! Like the Toyota Hilux from Top Gear that could not be killed. The same could be said for my knife:twothumbs! I took the still existing top section of the lock, and pushed it into the handle, just like new! The blade locked up firmly with no wiggle! Infect the lock was so distorted from my abuse that it had enough of a dent it that is will actually stay under the blade no mater how much I rattle the knife around:thumbsup:! To close the knife simply pull back hard on the top of the lock with your thumb, this will disengage the share and close the blade, then repress the lock in with the blade closed to lock it down. Thus even though my knife is missing almost all of it's components it still works! Granted it will no longer withstand sledgehammer blows, it will work just like it did before.
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