Threading of Raw NS

[nathan310]

I was playing with my ns and I realized it opens and closes smooth until you get to the last part going into high mode.

Then it feels like its scraping.

I looked at the threading and it's not smooth there, there's stuff in the treading that looks like it shouldn't be there.

I cant tell what it is whether its scratches or extra material that wasn't removed during manufacturing, but it's strange to me.

Has anyone else noticed this?

Is it normal?

 

[1M1]

Not on my two.

I assume you are discussing the inner threads of the head, BTW.

 

[nathan310]

Thanks.

It's moslty the tail but also a little in the head too.

 

[1M1]

Well, assuming no special tools about the house (a sharp cornered fine sharpening stone, for instance), you can remove the innerds of the light and lap the threads with toothpaste (peferably one of the "brightening" versions). A paste of baking soda also works.

Such may help.

Toothpaste is a fine abrasive, cleans up well (water rinse), and isn't going to remove metal very fast (a positive to me when I'm doing minor fixes).

 

[nathan310]

When you say lap does that mena just apply a little and leave it or rub it in?

Thanks BTW for the 411.

 

[1M1]

To lap in threads, I'd remove the innerds of the light (emitter, reflecter, etc. - don't forget the O-rings), apply a bit of paste to threads (near area of suspected problem), and thread the two components together repeatedly (to full stop - don't torque the snot out of it, just to normal "hand tight").

For the repetitions, a good 1/2 turn from "hand tight" is all that is needed.

After every 20-30 repetitions, un-thread completely and look at what is there. A bit of "silver" color indicates some metal is coming off - it may or may not be present. Then clean of the threads and look at the threads - they should be more polished, smoother.

Since the NS goes together/comes apart so well, I'd check fully assembled operation after each try. Assuming the threads look/feel smoother.

If the problem persists, try the lapping a couple more times. Check with full-assembly when the threads look/feel smoother.

I prefer to err on the more work-side (reassemble, etc.) than risk over lapping and potential damage (loose threads), though toothpaste lapping is one of the most forgiving methods of lapping I've ever done.

If you have old polishing paste for silverwear, the kind with a bit of mild grit/abrasive, that works well for smoothing out threads via lapping, too.

Most of the automotive valve lapping compounds are a bit too abrasive for my tastes, but can also be used. The finer grades would be preferred, since the removal of material is slower and the finish is more polished.

 

[Steve L]

Hi Nathan,

If you only notice this scraping after low is engaged, it is probably the low contact post making contact with the battery tube.

I was playing with my ns and I realized it opens and closes smooth until you get to the last part going into high mode.

Then it feels like its scraping.

I looked at the threading and it's not smooth there, there's stuff in the treading that looks like it shouldn't be there.

I cant tell what it is whether its scratches or extra material that wasn't removed during manufacturing, but it's strange to me.

Has anyone else noticed this?

Is it normal?

 

[1M1]

Hi Nathan,

If you only notice this scraping after low is engaged, it is probably the low contact post making contact with the battery tube.

Now that would make life easier and makes sense, too.

 

[nathan310]

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Jay R]

I had this on one of mine. The low 'pin' was a bit sharp and scratched the top of the battery tube. I rounded it off with a fine nail file and it worked fine.

 

[nathan310]

I figured out it is the post.

Thanks again fellas.