ThruNite XP-G R5 on a Surefire G2??

[Mrija]

Hello Fellow Flashaholics!!

After browsing quite a while on CPF and finding A LOT of information, some the opposite of others i am getting and would like to post a new thread to ask: the new ThruNite XP-G R5 does indeed seem to fit a Nitrolon G2 Surefire.

But I read on several posts that Nitrolon is a bad heat conductor, and hence powerful LED "may" suffer from overheating, or harm the flashlight and/or Li-ion batteries . Therefor i had already dropped the idea of a Malkoff M60 MC-E Quad Die on my G2.

Now that the new XP-G R5 is out, available from 3.7 to 9V with 345lumens advertise i am keen on installing it in replacement of my Solarforce R2, that seem to have contacts that loosen when heating (therefor shutting off after 30sec...specially with the Trustfire 16340, about 2mm longer pushing harder than other ones)

Is it risky to put such a powerful LED in a Nitrolon? Has anyone used it successfully :thumbsup:? Unsuccessfully:thumbsdow??

Thanks for you help saving me some bucks and bad smell (burned LED smell terribly...)

While waiting for your percious advice i'll stick to: :candle:


:thanks:

Mrya

 

[Alberta-Blue]

If the thruNite is the same size as a standard P-Series bulb (or Malkoff M-Series drop-in, if that helps) then it should fit into any SureFire C/P/G/Z/M2 Series Body.

You would be right to be concerned about LED overheating issues. LED's are prone to heat related failures if they are not properly heat sinked. This is why you see so much chit chat about proper heat sinking, cooling fins, see heat conductive metal drop-ins (such as the brass housing on the Malkoff M-Series), and even have Polymer lights engineered to house LED modules, such as the G2 LED, that have aluminum heads; to radiate as much heat away from the LED and into the outside environment as quickly as possible to prevent a failure.

If you are going to put ANY high power LED into a G2, you would be wise to make sure it is the G2 LED host (G2 with an aluminum head) to conduct the heat generated by the LED away from the drop-in. LED modules can be placed into Nitrolon/Polymer hosts, however a good number of the higher end drop-in's will warn against prolonged use (5-15 minutes) in that type of host.

 

[Bright_Light]

I'm interested in this question myself. I'm getting my brother a G2 body w/ tailcap for Christmas and he will have to decide what drop-in he wants to get. He's not a flashaholic (nor and I really lol) and I will have to help him oout on what dropiin to buy. I know an aluminum bezel would probably help out with the heat

And does anybody know how durable the ThruNite dropin is? I have an M60 in my G2 w/ a Solarforce aluminum bezel and it is VERY durable.

Thanks

 

[Mrija]

Here am I answering my own post... well i do already own a G2 not a G2L, and i am not soooo interested in changing or buy a new flashlight.
But if anyone consider it from scratch, then i do agree the G2L with a new drop in powerful LED is the way to go.
But in my case it :mecry: an old G2 classic Nitrolon head.

Any chance to build myself some heatsinking around or inside the head??

 

[ElectronGuru]

Out of the box, the "host" portion of a G2L is the identical to a G2, except for the bezel. And the bezel in question is interchangeable with bezels found on metal hosts. A metal bezel from a P, C, or Z light, then, can be used to upgrade a G2 to a G2L. The goal is get enough metal touching the shell of the drop in to conduct heat away to the surface of the light. Depending on the drop in's design, this can be done through the body (6P etc) and/or through the bezel.

Keep in mind too, its not that the LED won't run, its that its life span will be reduced. So instead of 100,000 hours, you might get 10,000. But, if it becomes obsolete before 1,000 hours of use, it may not even matter.

 

[csshih]

I tested the xpg dropin without heatsinking and it felt too hot to touch after a few minutes. Heatsinking would be adviseable. I believe that the output will drop as the dropin gets too hot?

Durability? I haven't abused the dropin itself, but I've dropped the host that the dropin is in a few times to no effect, ymmv.

 

[ElectronGuru]

I believe that the output will drop as the dropin gets too hot?

Depends on the company/module. SF P60L's do. Malkoff's do not.

 

[MrGman]

Depends on the company/module. SF P60L's do. Malkoff's do not.

Csshih was talking specifically about the Thrunite XP-G drop in. Its the one in question here. With this module I would not recommend running it in a plastic host for anything more than 30 seconds at a time. But in the long run, I wouldn't put it in a plastic host at all.

 

[Mrija]

He Folks!!

Thanks to all. i might wait a little then and think the whole thing through... and think about what i need the flashlight for. My G2 is meant as light flashlight for mountaineering. Ok there it's cold, but still, i need it for longer then just flash a "simple mortal" to show off or look for something under a cupboard. Therefor durable and lasting. Might get a Lumens factory D26 advertised 250Lumens, 3 modes, so i can dimm it if it gets hot without problem (and less $$)

Regards to all and cya around!

Mrya

 

[wheelies]

Hello Fellow Flashaholics!!

After browsing quite a while on CPF and finding A LOT of information, some the opposite of others i am getting and would like to post a new thread to ask: the new ThruNite XP-G R5 does indeed seem to fit a Nitrolon G2 Surefire.

But I read on several posts that Nitrolon is a bad heat conductor, and hence powerful LED "may" suffer from overheating, or harm the flashlight and/or Li-ion batteries . Therefor i had already dropped the idea of a Malkoff M60 MC-E Quad Die on my G2.

Now that the new XP-G R5 is out, available from 3.7 to 9V with 345lumens advertise i am keen on installing it in replacement of my Solarforce R2, that seem to have contacts that loosen when heating (therefor shutting off after 30sec...specially with the Trustfire 16340, about 2mm longer pushing harder than other ones)

Is it risky to put such a powerful LED in a Nitrolon? Has anyone used it successfully :thumbsup:? Unsuccessfully:thumbsdow??

Thanks for you help saving me some bucks and bad smell (burned LED smell terribly...)

While waiting for your percious advice i'll stick to: :candle:


:thanks:



Mrya

SAVE YOUR MONEY!!!!

I got the ThruNite XP-G R5 and it's not any brighter than the R2. My R2 actually has a whiter tint and throws a little better than the R5.

 

[MrGman]

SAVE YOUR MONEY!!!!

I got the ThruNite XP-G R5 and it's not any brighter than the R2. My R2 actually has a whiter tint and throws a little better than the R5.

Don't let the tint fool you into thinking the so called "white" one is brighter. I have measured many a light and that so called "whiter" tint (that is typically into the bluer range) makes your brain think its brighter but the total lumens numbers aren't there to back it up.

While its possible your R2 is brighter than your XP-G. I have only measurd one R2 that was ever in the 260 lumens out the front range and that was the overdriven EagleTac T10C2. All others were in the 230 or less range. This XP-G that I had definitely hit 260 out the front lumens.

Between color tint differences and the sensitivity of the human eye that may seem like the R2 is just as bright but that doesn't mean it is. Most probably it is not.

On the other hand, that doesn't make the XP-G worth the extra money either, but I did like the one that I tested in both output and overall useful beam profile.

 

[lightinsky]

Just curious. I have a G2 with aluminum bezel and running a 17593 from DX that adjusts from like 5 lumens up to supposedly 200 lumens. I just added on the aluminum bezel a FM35 red night vision filter. Will that affect the heat dissipation when running led on highest setting?


C:\Documents and Settings\Alex\My Documents\Flashlight Stuff\DealExtreme 17593 $11_39 Cree R2-WC 3-Mode + 0~100% LED Drop-in Module for WF-502B and Flashlights Alike (3_6V~8_4V).mht

 

[sims2k]

Don't let the tint fool you into thinking the so called "white" one is brighter. I have measured many a light and that so called "whiter" tint (that is typically into the bluer range) makes your brain think its brighter but the total lumens numbers aren't there to back it up.

While its possible your R2 is brighter than your XP-G. I have only measurd one R2 that was ever in the 260 lumens out the front range and that was the overdriven EagleTac T10C2. All others were in the 230 or less range. This XP-G that I had definitely hit 260 out the front lumens.

Between color tint differences and the sensitivity of the human eye that may seem like the R2 is just as bright but that doesn't mean it is. Most probably it is not.

On the other hand, that doesn't make the XP-G worth the extra money either, but I did like the one that I tested in both output and overall useful beam profile.

Thanks MrGman...this is the info I was looking for for a new drop-in.