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Ti 2xAA McClickie Pak wave

Interesting, my XP-G 2xAA is 6 5/16".

I thought I forgot how to read a tape measure and went back and measured mine again and its still the same 6 5/16'' and its a Haiku XP-G 2xAA also maybe Codeman's is older and it grew more than ours.
 
It appears that I experienced a previously undetected communication error between my combination rule and ocular data collector, thus introducing a +3/16" error into my measurement.

I apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused and trust that everyone will find solace in the knowledge that I was not involved with designing any civil structures during this time.:nana:

Don, if you need any assistance with spec'ing your next light, I'm available! :duck:
 
On a totally different topic (thank goodness :ironic🙂: Don, was there a reason you opted to not have the collar ring on the 2xAA Pak like there is on the 1x123 Pak? I mean, I guess it's a vestigial item since it's basically a Surefire E-Series hard-stop for the head to butt against when installed, modified so it no longer serves that purpose, but even though it's non-functional at this point it somehow still looks like it ought to be there.
 
On a totally different topic (thank goodness :ironic🙂: Don, was there a reason you opted to not have the collar ring on the 2xAA Pak like there is on the 1x123 Pak? I mean, I guess it's a vestigial item since it's basically a Surefire E-Series hard-stop for the head to butt against when installed, modified so it no longer serves that purpose, but even though it's non-functional at this point it somehow still looks like it ought to be there.

In some cases, the collar ring hard stop precluded the needed connection between the battery tube lip and rear of the LE. I believe its presence on the SF E series was a result of the needed large boss to be host to the pocket clip. I wish to retain E series compatibility but remove any unnecessary elements of potential conflict. If I felt comfortable in ignoring the E-series compatibility, I would rather allow for a nice and uncritical overlap of the head skirt over the O-ring and even leave room for an option of a second O-ring. With a less demanding geometry up there it would be more conducive to a twisty pak option in addition to tail switch pak.

In the case of the 2xAA pak, going to a full collar diameter would require turning the part from a larger diameter bar stock which would add to the cost of the part due to longer machining time and more material requirement.

One of the reasons I kept it on the 1x123 pak was that it serves as the land for the clip and were it not there, it would be more difficult to lead the clip over the intended attachment area.
 
Underwater, everything looks bigger than it is and I am a bad judge of scale. 🙂 I leave it to you guys with rulers!
 
I thought of significant shrinkage under water. But probably not with yours then. After all, we're talking titanium 😀
 
In some cases, the collar ring hard stop precluded the needed connection between the battery tube lip and rear of the LE. I believe its presence on the SF E series was a result of the needed large boss to be host to the pocket clip. I wish to retain E series compatibility but remove any unnecessary elements of potential conflict. If I felt comfortable in ignoring the E-series compatibility, I would rather allow for a nice and uncritical overlap of the head skirt over the O-ring and even leave room for an option of a second O-ring. With a less demanding geometry up there it would be more conducive to a twisty pak option in addition to tail switch pak.

In the case of the 2xAA pak, going to a full collar diameter would require turning the part from a larger diameter bar stock which would add to the cost of the part due to longer machining time and more material requirement.

One of the reasons I kept it on the 1x123 pak was that it serves as the land for the clip and were it not there, it would be more difficult to lead the clip over the intended attachment area.
Excellent answer. 😀 I'd say that covers just about every "next question" I could've thought to ask, in addition to my original question. Thanks.

Regarding the Twisty Pak option, you could go with something more along the lines of the original Aleph design, with a modular tailswitch modeled after the ones on the SF E-series. There could be bare metal tailcaps that only function as twisties, and tailcaps with clicky-switches in them so they can be unscrewed a little as a lockout function. Functionally speaking, I think having a tail-operated twisty makes more sense than a head-operated twisty, because I always seem to have the head pointed at the palm of my hand when I twist it, and when the light comes on it's blinding for a second until I point it somewhere else.
 
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Got my Ti 2AA Pak the other day and absolutely love it. A work of art and looks great with my Haiku BB Head.

Thanks Don :thumbsup:
 
Is there any chance that i can get this pak with out the clip ?

Thanks
The clip's threaded holes are in place on all of the paks. You can get the pak without the clip but it would still have the mounting holes in it.
 
Received my third one this past week for a family member. Set it up like the previous two with a Ti VME head, M31LL, borofloat lens (with no coating to mess up), and Eneloop batteries/charger. That should be good to go for the storm season or a sunspot/CME event😱oo:.
 
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