TK10 Owners - Re-lube your head threads!

LargePig

Newly Enlightened
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Mar 6, 2008
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Just a bit of a warning to anyone who hasn't already done so, I would suggest applying generous lubrication to the head threads (the ones that should allow you to turn the head to change mode from low to high).

Mine appeared to already be well lubricated when I opened it up after unpacking it for the first time, but last night, only days from new, the threads started grinding :( little shavings of metal in them.

I've cleaned them the best I can and covered the threads in Vaseline (these threads have no o-rings, I have silicone grease on the O-rings which on the head are nowhere near the threads...) and all seems fine now. Like a hot knife though garlic butter.

I think it's so important to keep these very well lubed due to the massive size of the threads.

-Edited to make it very clear that I am NOT using vaseline on O-rings :drool:
 
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Why's that? I have searched and all I found was that it was bad for o-rings.

I am planning to pick up some teflon grease, but what's so bad about vaseline on metal?
 
Ooooh, not those threads!!

The ones that let you twist the heads to change modes is what I'm talking about!
 
I need to clarify there that there are no o-rings on the threads for the head on the TK10, the threads are on the inside, the O-ring is on the outside.

I have silicone grease on the O-ring on the outside and vaseline on the threads on the inside (no O-rings) until I pick up some teflon grease!

I know about rubber and vaseline!!
 
My brand new TK10 was loaded with grit, dirt, and I don't know what. I cleaned those threads with alcohol and that wasn't enough. There was still a gritty feel even with Nyogel. I finally found some old Energine spot remover (I don't think they make this any more because of environmental concerns. It contains some awful smelling organic solvents). I applied it to a cotton swab and cleaned the threads again, being careful not to disolve my Orings with the Energine.. I didn't believe all the black stuff that came off on those Energine soaked swabs. Afterwards, a little Nyogel, and the head turned like butter.

I purchased my light from Brightguy, which is near where I work. I tried a few lights and they were all gritty. They had told me they had already taken all their TK10's apart to inspect, clean and lube them. I can't fault them for not spending as much time and effort as I did to get these threads clean and smooth. However, I do fault Fenix for not having done so to begin with.
 
Hi folks,
we've had this problem here in the UK. Cleaning the threads inside the head thoroughly with a cotton bud and likewise inside the body with a rag before re lubing sorts it out. I've been relubing by using light machine oil on the threads and molybdenum gun oil on the orings for a beautifully smooth result. Even if you take the head off your light to reube as soon as you receive it it's important to thoroughly clean the threads first.
 
My TK10 also benefited from the application of a tiny amount Slick 50 wheel bearing grease. Thats stuff is good, and a can will last about 9000 years at the rate I'm using it.
 
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