Top 5 AAA keychain flashlights of 2017.

[InvisibleFrodo]

Does anyone here know what the difference is between the lug and the keychain models of the Peak Eiger? They actually both appear to be designed for attachment to keys, but to my eyes it looks like maybe the keychain model has some means of a quick release? I've noticed some people are die hard fans of the eigers, and I'm curious to try one...

 

[archimedes]

Does anyone here know what the difference is between the lug and the keychain models of the Peak Eiger? They actually both appear to be designed for attachment to keys, but to my eyes it looks like maybe the keychain model has some means of a quick release? I've noticed some people are die hard fans of the eigers, and I'm curious to try one...

Yes both have attachment points for a keyring.

The lug is a fixed attachment ... non-removeable - no tailstanding, no option for plunger switch.

The keychain version attachment point can be unscrewed ... removable for tailstanding and/or plunger switch.

No quick release on either.

 

[Fireclaw18]

I've heard the Sofirn SP10B is quite good, especially for its low price.

Don't have one yet, but I do have one on order.

EDIT: OOPS! the Sofirn is a AA light not AAA! My bad:green:

 

[eh4]

I'd love to find a better AAA light than the Thrunite Ti3.
Their med level is rated at something like 6.5 hours, which is a mismatch for night times... 12 lumens for 6.3 hours might better serve with around 6 lumens for 12+ hours... and the 120 lumens at .5 hours is more a stunt, ok it's useful to be able to "turbo" an AAA light for a few seconds, so maybe that should stay at its battery killing high level (I'd much prefer a solid hour aft 60 lumens), but please get rid of the strobe, and maybe if it makes the circuit design more streamlined, raise the admirably low firefly up a pinch to more closely correspond to a meaningful logarithmic relation to the med level...
Something like 96 hours (four days) at 1/20 lumen wouldn't be a big change, but might make the firefly more useful to more people.
Must go L-M-H, must be warm or neutral.

Those criticisms aside, I still think the Ti3 is the best, and about the cheapest AAA light around.

 

[gurdygurds]

I'm really trying to get over the whole runtime thing. This really only because an "issue" when I started to get into flashlights. Used to not worry about it. Battery would die and I would GET RID OF THE DEAD BATTERY and pop in a fresh one. Now that I'm NIMH all the way around I wonder why I still get obsessed over the runtime of a light, especially for the way I use mine which is around the house, walking dog, and the occasional camping trip. Not really hard to toss in a new eneloop or bring extras camping. I keep telling myself this anyway. trying to enjoy th lights for what they are and not obsess too much about the beam, runtime, durability, etc. When I'm able to do this I enjoy each light more rather than critique it constantly and wish I had something else. Hard to do sometimes but I keep reminding myself how great even these little AAA lights are these days. Really enjoying this Ti3 for what it is lately.

 

[gurdygurds]

I'm really trying to get over the whole runtime thing. This really only became an "issue" when I started to get into flashlights. Used to not worry about it. Battery would die and I would GET RID OF THE DEAD BATTERY and pop in a fresh one. Now that I'm NIMH all the way around I wonder why I still get obsessed over the runtime of a light, especially for the way I use mine which is around the house, walking dog, and the occasional camping trip. Not really hard to toss in a new eneloop or bring extras camping. I keep telling myself this anyway. trying to enjoy th lights for what they are and not obsess too much about the beam, runtime, durability, etc. When I'm able to do this I enjoy each light more rather than critique it constantly and wish I had something else. Hard to do sometimes but I keep reminding myself how great even these little AAA lights are these days. Really enjoying this Ti3 for what it is lately.

 

[khaleeq]

I really like the tint on my copper worm nichia. Then made the mistake of ordering copper tool aaa in xp-g2 version. Now have ordered cooper tool in nicha which banggood shipped today. But I don't know why if I am asked to pick only 1 aaa light, I will take my E01. The two reasons being long runtimes and tough body. My Ti3 xpl-hi is on the way too. Let us see how it compares to the Fenix in runtimes.

 

[Nichia!]

I really like the tint on my copper worm nichia. Then made the mistake of ordering copper tool aaa in xp-g2 version. Now have ordered cooper tool in nicha which banggood shipped today. But I don't know why if I am asked to pick only 1 aaa light, I will take my E01. The two reasons being long runtimes and tough body. My Ti3 xpl-hi is on the way too. Let us see how it compares to the Fenix in runtimes.

Hi there
When you receive it can U tell us if they changed the led by posting some pics please?

 

[iamlucky13]

Now that I'm NIMH all the way around I wonder why I still get obsessed over the runtime of a light, especially for the way I use mine which is around the house, walking dog, and the occasional camping trip. Not really hard to toss in a new eneloop or bring extras camping. I keep telling myself this anyway.

I've got this problem, too. It's been several months since I last charged my EDC light (AA powered).

I went to charge it this weekend in anticipation of a trip, and when I checked, it was 1.275V - likely still over half full.

I'm trying to tell myself that practicing being more frivolous with batteries is a good excuse to buy a Lumintop Tool - an unusually inefficient light - but something keeps admonishing me: "Do you really want to be stuck at only 1/2 hour runtime in a mode 20times the output you usually use? You'll have to recharge practically every single month!"

 

[jon_slider]

The best for me for the last 2.5 years of EDC is the Cu Maratac.
It bumped a Cu Worm, a Ti3, Fenix E01, Fenix E05, Prometheus Beta Cu, and an L08, … out of my coin pocket

My top 3 AAA picks:

#1
Copper Maratac w Nichia.
Benefits
Noble Metal, Anti Bacterial, NoPWM, High CRI

#2
Copper Tool w Nichia
Same benefits as Maratac, though Tool has shorter runtime on high

#3
Honorable Low CRI Lightweight
oLight i3s
Benefits
Light weight, very useful 0.5 lumen level, NoPWM

I seldom use High mode in my AAA lights, if I want ~100 lumens for more than a few seconds, I use a 16340 light.

I carry a spare eneloop in my pack, my AAA light goes noticeably dimmer than medium, which is the mode I use most, long before it shuts off completely. When I need brighter for longer, I switch to a 16340 light.

For my midnight porcelain light, I like a sublumen level and warm color. I like my oLight i3s on the nightstand, with a 3000k N219 LED

 

[Tachead]

The best for me for the last 2.5 years of EDC is the Cu Maratac.
It bumped a Cu Worm, a Ti3, Fenix E01, Fenix E05, Prometheus Beta Cu, and an L08, … out of my coin pocket

My top 3 AAA picks:

#1
Copper Maratac w Nichia.
Benefits
Noble Metal, Anti Bacterial, NoPWM, High CRI

#2
Copper Tool w Nichia
Same benefits as Maratac, though Tool has shorter runtime on high

#3
Honorable Low CRI Lightweight
oLight i3s
Benefits
Light weight, very useful 0.5 lumen level, NoPWM

I seldom use High mode in my AAA lights, if I want ~100 lumens for more than a few seconds, I use a 16340 light.

I carry a spare eneloop in my pack, my AAA light goes noticeably dimmer than medium, which is the mode I use most, long before it shuts off completely. When I need brighter for longer, I switch to a 16340 light.

For my midnight porcelain light, I like a sublumen level and warm color. I like my oLight i3s on the nightstand, with a 3000k N219 LED

Hey Jon, can I ask why you prefer the Maratac and Worm over the much higher end Prometheus Beta? Thanks.

 

[jon_slider]

Hey Jon, can I ask why you prefer the Maratac and Worm over the much higher end Prometheus Beta? Thanks.

the Beta has PWM, It was my edc until it messed up a photo. I replaced it with a Cu Worm that has NoPWM. Before maratac got rid of Pwm and offered a Nichia, I ran the Cu Worm head, on my Maratac body (I prefer it to the beta/worm body).. I did that with the Beta first btw.. And the Beta started my Love affair with Nichias too.. I don't think the beta can compete in price w the Worm, due to it being a custom order by a guy that lives in California. But I also don't think the Beta or Worm are in current production, just old stock to clear out.

both the worm and the Beta are 18% heavier than the maratac, and none go on my minimalist keychain, I did not end up using the very cool QR feature on the Beta, for my style of carry.

Also the Beta is LMH, which I do not prefer, especially in a twisty, since my most used mode is Medium in my AAA EDC., I prefer medium first, as in the Worm/Maratac/Too, though I prefer the 1 lumen low of the Beta over the 3 lumen low of the Worm/Maratac/Tool, I place a higher priority on NoPWM... tradeoffs...

 

[Tachead]

the Beta has PWM, when I discovered that by accident from taking a photo, I replaced it with a Cu Worm that has NoPWM. When I discovered that Maratac stopped using a PWM driver and adopted the Nichia, I went all in. Before maratac got rid of Pwm, I ran the Cu Worm head, on my Maratac body.. I did that with the Beta first btw.. It was my edc until it messed up a photo. And the Beta started my Love affair with Nichias too..

both the worm and the Beta are 18% heavier than the maratac, and none go on my minimalist keychain, I did not end up using the very cool QR feature on the Beta, for my style of carry.

Also the Beta is LMH, which I do not prefer, especially in a twisty, since my most used mode is Medium in my AAA EDC, I prefer medium first, as in the Worm, though I prefer the 1 lumen low of the Beta over the 3 lumen low of the Worm. tradeoffs...

Ok, thanks for the detailed reply. I ask because I am considering getting one of these 3 lights and am leaning towards the Beta QRv2. I am a LMH guy myself as I mainly use these small low capacity lights for bedside table duty and need low/moonlight first to preserve dark adapted eyes. But, I prefer the 4000K Nichia 219B in the Maratac over the 4500k Nichia 219B in the Beta. Tradeoffs, like you said.

Oh, just so you know, all the newest Beta's(both 2 and 3 mode) no longer use PWM.

Now, I just have to decide if it is worth spending $100 on a Beta QRv2 with Ti clip just to replace my already great $5 early generation Astrolux A01 4000K Nichia 219B bedside lights. Really, the only thing I don't like about them is they don't tailstand well and don't have a pocket clip otherwise I wouldn't even be considering upgrading.

Oh, one more question... Do you know if the Maratac GITD diffuser fits the Beta head perfectly? Thanks again.

 

[jon_slider]

yes the diffuser fits, so does a chapstick cap, the beta, worm and Maratac are all the same length and diameter
thanks for updating me that new betas were made after mine, and got rid of Pwm

your interest in low first plus tail stand, and the prometheus clip, has an alternative, since the QR is not a design goal for you, here is a frankensimilar, though partly made of unobtanium
ReyLight TiTool w Nichia.. add a captive clip from the new preon. The clip is as pretty as the one for the Beta, (but not as deep carry), and the TiTool will tail stand.

 

[Tachead]

yes the diffuser fits, so does a chapstick cap, the beta, worm and Maratac are all the same length and diameter
thanks for updating me that new betas were made after mine, and got rid of Pwm

your interest in low first plus tail stand, and the prometheus clip, has an alternative, since the QR is not a design goal for you, here is a frankensimilar, though partly made of unobtanium
ReyLight TiTool w Nichia.. add a captive clip from the new preon. The clip is as pretty as the one for the Beta, (but not as deep carry), and the TiTool will tail stand.

Thanks Jon, good to know.

Yeah, I know about the Ti Tool and the ReyLight Nichia version is still available through Banggood but, I hear the driver is not very efficient, I am not real keen on the design of the electronic switch, and I am not really a fan of titanium for flashlight bodies(especially the cheap non-heat treated 6Al-4V used by most companies). Plus, it's a bit pricey for a mass produced Chinese made light imo.

I think the Beta QRv2 in brass with the Ti clip might be the ticket for me. If only it had a true sublumen moonlight and a 4000K Nichia... Tradeoffs as you say lol.

 

[khaleeq]

Hi, you mean led on Ti3? I would like to post a pic or two but I have less than 50 posts so far on cpf, so I guess I can't possibly do that directly. I don't know of any other easier way to put up pics here. I will appreciate if somebody helps.

 

[ven]

Prob easiest way is imgur, open account(free), upload pics from phone or comp...........copy the BBC code(click large thumb nail), paste here and bobs your uncle!

 

[jon_slider]

all the newest Beta's(both 2 and 3 mode) no longer use PWM.

alternate facts?:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...that-use-PWM&p=5164291&viewfull=1#post5164291

Jason at Prometheus lights does say that his newest driver uses super high frequency PWM and it's supposedly too fast to cause harmonics. That would make it past my sound test while still having PWM...

imo best to just post a photo, as opinions and hearsay vary widely

 

[Tachead]

alternate facts?:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...that-use-PWM&p=5164291&viewfull=1#post5164291


imo best to just post a photo, as opinions and hearsay vary widely

I emailed Jason last week and he told me that none of the current Beta's use PWM.

Maybe someone who has bought one recently can confirm?

 

[jon_slider]

The Beta is $47 right now... and the really nice Ti clip option

where are you getting your facts?

this is what I found on Jasons site
$79 for the light
$25 for the clip

"The clip holds securely but it does rotate. This is going to upset some people, but that's just the way it's got to be. I mean, come on, I made it pocket clip compatible...let's get excited about that part!"