Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel 1AA

[vetkaw63]

I emailed KD and asked if they had in stock sku#3392. KD (Connie) said out of stock awaiting an order soon.

When I posted the question about the Rexlight modules in the CPFMP Rexlight thread, Jerry said that he didn't think they weren't going order anymore because they had to order 500 pieces, that there was no interest for any modules.

So what's the answer?

I would take a 4 pak.
Mike

 

[Nake]

Nice review. I ordered one, the first 'budget' light in a long time I intend to keep and use myself. It seems to be a good host for a new driver and emitter. I hope the switch is ok. Anybody checked resistance in the switch? Does the reflector screw into the head, or is it held in place by the pill?
Stefan

I'm not sure about reading resistance since my MM has four scales and I don't know what they mean. On the 00.0 scale it showed .1 upon hookup and right away dropped to zero.

In my lightbox there was no difference in output between the tailcap and a jumper wire. That I can understand, very good. :thumbsup:

 

[bspofford]

Received my Rexlight 2.1 002 upgrade kit today. It came with the pill and reflector shown in the picture, but it also came with AR glass and a thick plastic disc. I suspect that the latter replaces the metal washer between the switch and the silicone cover in the tailcap.

I exchanged the lens, reflector and pill, and all seem to fit the Ultrafire C3 stainless steel just fine. Side-by-side with a second light on 14500 cells, the one with the Rex pill has a larger, warmer, and brighter hotspot. The multiple modes with memory are nice too with low, medium, high, fast strobe, and SOS. I have several Ultrafire C3 stainless steel lights and hope I can get more Rexlight module kits to upgrade all of them!:thumbsup:

 

[BigBluefish]

Well, if KD (and DX) are listening, I'd take 3 or 4 of these modules, order an equal number of SS C3s and give them for birthday and Christmas gifts to non-flashaholic friends. Practical, cool, and not too expensive. And I, of course, would get to play with them first, just to make sure they worked OK.

 

[Nake]

....and a thick plastic disc. I suspect that the latter replaces the metal washer between the switch and the silicone cover in the tailcap.

The plastic disc goes over the Cree ring and centers the LED as it enters the bottom of the reflector. The board the LED is soldered to is not stationary. Put them together outside of the light and you'll see what I mean.

 

[ernsanada]

I started a thread at CPFMP Dealers about Kaidomain, We Want More Rexlight 2.1 Module Kits.

I was thinking the kits can include the Rexlight 2.1 Module, Reflector and Lens.

I did try the Rexlight Lens but it seemed too thick, there was a gap at the tailcap and battery tube.

Maybe if we can drum up some interest we can get more modules.

 

[Vikas Sontakke]

When the module was first announced, it was supposed to be only for the original owners of the 2.0 light. The rationale given was that at $15, he was not making any money on it and was offering it out of his good heart.

Would you be willing to up the ante?

- Vikas

 

[bspofford]

When the module was first announced, it was supposed to be only for the original owners of the 2.0 light. The rationale given was that at $15, he was not making any money on it and was offering it out of his good heart.

Would you be willing to up the ante?

- Vikas

But a Rex 2.1 002 is only $30 if you buy two for $60. KD would be selling a $20 Ultrafire + $15 Rex module for $35. Maybe they would have a better margin.:shrug:

 

[bspofford]

I started a thread at

CPFMP Dealers about Kaidomain, We Want More Rexlight 2.1 Module Kits.

I was thinking the kits can include the Rexlight 2.1 Module, Reflector and Lens.

I did try the Rexlight Lens but it seemed too thick, there was a gap at the tailcap and battery tube.

Maybe if we can drum up some interest we can get more modules.

My kit arrived today and contained four items: 1) Rex 2.1 module, 2) reflector, 3) thin AR lens (sapphire?), and 4) plastic disc. The plastic disc is too thick to act as an isolator, and it keeps the emitter from properly entering the reflector.

 

[bspofford]

The plastic disc goes over the Cree ring and centers the LED as it enters the bottom of the reflector. The board the LED is soldered to is not stationary. Put them together outside of the light and you'll see what I mean.

Noticed that the product description describes this as an "LED alignment sheet." It is much too thick to act as an isolator and prevents the dome of the emitter from protruding into the reflector properly, so I think it is only a template. The emitter seems to have thermal paste holding it to the board, and the template can be used to recenter it before threading the module into the head.

- Upgrade your Rexlight 2.0 with this REX2.1 newest module
- This kit contains: 1) 1 x CREE Q2 Emittor
2) 1 x All new Rexlight Superconstant driver
3) 1 x New reflector with improved reflective curve
4) 1 x AR coated glass lens
5) LED alignment sheet

 

[Nake]

Noticed that the product description describes this as an "LED alignment sheet." It is much too thick to act as an isolator and prevents the dome of the emitter from protruding into the reflector properly, so I think it is only a template. The emitter seems to have thermal paste holding it to the board, and the template can be used to recenter it before threading the module into the head.

The reflector has a lip that will only let the pill screw into the headcap/bezel so far. Even with the pill bottomed out against the reflector my "alignment sheet" still has movement, that is, it's not touching the reflector. Are you using the reflector that came with the upgrade kit or the old one? Some people wrote they did use the old one.

That's how everything comes together for me. Whatever works for your light is fine, I guess.

 

[StefanFS]

In my lightbox there was no difference in output between the tailcap and a jumper wire. That I can understand, very good. :thumbsup:

Thanks for your answer, I got mine a few days ago and the switch in the light is performing really well for a change, seems to be a very good switch. Quite often budget lights have bad low cost switches. Tonight my C3 will get an CREE Q5 emitter and maybe a new driver!
Stefan

 

[Nake]

Thanks for your answer, I got mine a few days ago and the switch in the light is performing really well for a change, seems to be a very good switch. Quite often budget lights have bad low cost switches. Tonight my C3 will get an CREE Q5 emitter and maybe a new driver!
Stefan

You're right about the switches on low budget lights.
I'm thinking a Q5 with a FLuPIC for mine.

 

[Vikas Sontakke]

Initially I had reported that this light uses constant current driver but now I am not so sure any more. My light was quite less bright on slightly used and rested NiMh than when compared to fresh off the charger battery.

Are there are any runtime or input current graph for this light?

- Vikas

 

[bspofford]

KD increased the price on the single (not available) Rex 2.1 module to $17.58 today. Maybe they are concerned that folks might buy a $20 stainless steel Ultrafire C3 and a $15 Rex 2.1 module instead of a $30 Rexlight 2.1 (@ 2 for $60). I've been buying a lot of Ultrafire stainless steel C3 lights, Rex 2.1 lights, and Rex 2.1 modules instead of other lights sold by their main competitor, so I think keeping the price down on the modules would be good for business at KD.

 

[ernsanada]

I just received my second Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel 1AA from Deal Extreme

Costs $20.90.

From ordering to receiving the light took only 6 days to Socal. This was one of the fastest times I received a light from Deal Extreme.

Comes with only a lanyard.

The fit on this light. I gave a grade B. There is a gap at the lens bezel assembly and the battery tube.

The finish I give the grade A.

Note the gap at the lens bezel assembly and battery tube, on the left. The one with th large gap is the newer light I received today.

When you look at the first light (on the right) I purchased see there is a smaller gap at back by the battery tube and rear clickie assembly.

Note the gap at the lens bezel assembly and battery tube, on the bottom.

 

[alfreddajero]

It seems mine is getting here by snail mail......are you going to use a lathe to get rid of the gaps or are you going to leave it like that.

 

[nerdgineer]

...Note the gap at the lens bezel assembly and battery tube, on the bottom...

Tastes differ, so to me, the gap is good.

It means that the end of the body tube is bottoming out on the PCB (or tail switch) contact ring before the shoulder of the body hits the end of the head/tail cap, i.e. that a solid electrical contact has been established.

On Ultrafires in particular, I've sometimes had to grind down the end of the head/tail cap so the body doesn't stop too soon and get a poor connection inside. This is especially common where I've tightened the light engine or tail switch, increasing the gap for the body to bridge.

I'd rather have positive, no flicker contact and a gap rather than vice versa, but maybe that's just me.

 

[ernsanada]

I never thought about it that way.

Thanks!

 

[Walt175]

The one I got from KD 2 days ago looks like the one you just got from DX. There is a gap on the head side but not the tail side. I had to disassemble the head to fix the lens oring. It had started to squeeze out. Tried to fit a glowring, but it was too thick to fit properly.

I love mine, and will probably order a few more for gifts.