Ultrafire WF-1300L is here

TAIGERSX

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jul 10, 2008
Messages
96
Location
Virginia
This light has been "known" for pushing 1000 lumens OTF and good regulation so I decided to give it a try :naughty:. I got it from HKELVISFEVER. So here it is:


The type 2 HA finish is OK

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This light is using 7*SSC P4 with each LED is driven at 1A ( manufacturer spec)

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The threads are above average and not very smooth. This light uses the same battery tray as the Ultrafire RL-2088.

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The driver

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It seems like this is something that the WF-1300L owners have to live with: NICKS OUT OF THE ENVELOPE :green:

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Initial impression: This light is definitely the brightest light I own for the first 10 minutes. Now it's DEAD :( . I think the reason is due to the twisty tail switch. It works very erratically. Sometime it's on, sometime it's off . After I removed the crushed o-orings the light is completely dead. It seems to me this is because of the contact problem as the O-rings help keep the tailcap straight in place. The orings that came with it are very flimsy and actually crushed by the tailcap threads when I twisted the tailcap. I hope looking for a new O-rings would solve the problem.What I'm gonna do with this light now I'm not sure :shakehead. So if anybody out there thinks about getting this light, please think again. It's not worth it .
 
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The Ultrafire lights I have owned have all required some tweeking to get them to perform their best. They both suffered the same serious design flaw, in that the tail cap screw threads were the primary electrical conduction path. If I used the light un-lubed it was fine, if however the thread lube got just a little bit discolored and dirty, it would suffer from poor conduction. In each case I needed to grind the tailcap shorter to get the body tube to tighten directly against the switch pill.

Its hard to tell from these pics but there is a very slight gap between the switch cap and the adjacent raised shoulder around the body. This ensures that current conducts directly from the switch pill to the body tube.

Its hard to tell from your verbal description what exactly is the hang up... but I think if you worked with it theres a good chance it has some potential...

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Sorry about the switch problem. I own 2 Ultrafire light's and both have had switch problems.

It is a cool, beefy little light!

And too bad indeed.

I guess (and I mean no sour grapes), this speaks to what folks are always saying build quality and getting what one pays for.

:tired:
 
It's actually quite sad...

At the very least, an interesting concept and design; plagued by **** poor execution and horrible lack of Q.C. :shakehead
 
It's actually quite sad...

At the very least, an interesting concept and design; plagued by **** poor execution and horrible lack of Q.C. :shakehead

Ultrafire summed up in one sentence! It is a pity they can't even produce a decent box or packet, so your new toy is often damaged on arrival.
 
Not to lose hope too quickly. My RL-2088 had weird switch on problems and it seemed more from that darn grease all over everything that was messing up the works. I think once the switch gets some useage it becomes a little better. If there is any, wipe all the lubro-snot off everything and reassemble it. Might help...might not. Worth a try tho.
 
Not to lose hope too quickly. My RL-2088 had weird switch on problems and it seemed more from that darn grease all over everything that was messing up the works. I think once the switch gets some useage it becomes a little better. If there is any, wipe all the lubro-snot off everything and reassemble it. Might help...might not. Worth a try tho.

Actuallly WF-1300L is a different story. After I removed 2 crushed flimsy orings on the body tube,the body tube was no longer be able to fit the tailcap tightly. U can imagine this by taking a 7 mm cap and screw it in a 5mm bottle. There is a gap between tailcap and the body tube. I'm trying to find the 40mm O-rings to solve this problem. I'm not losing hope on this light cuz it would be a beast after getting fixed.
 
Hi,


I searched for the out the front lumen readings, but MrGman doesn't have it. Can you please provide where you saw it makes 1000 out the front lumens.


IMHO: After purchasing several 1000 claimed lumen lights that eventually got tested. You would be lucky to get 700~800 out the front. You have the heatsink issues which may or may not be as adequate as you may think. Even lights built like tanks may not produce the numbers due to heat. Especially; if the R2's are driven near 1A. 500 lumens to me is super bright and anything more is just for showing off to friends and family. (it is what I do with my lumen monstors) 700 plus lumens inside my house hurts me more.:laughing:

Jose
 
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I am glad I caught this thread. I have been very tempted to buy this light thinking that it was about the only light worth its weight that could outshine my Olight M30. I even bought three new AW 18650 batteries in anticipation of buying it. After seeing this thread I am going to hold off until I hear about a way to repair this flawed light that is easy and effective. I am sorry to hear about your luck. $145 is no small amount for a light. I really wish Ultrafire would have taken the time to build this light right. It has so much potential.
 
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