Upgrading LED's on Elektrolumens Tri-Star 4D... Now with Pics

[Bucket]

I posted this on Elektrolumens forum, but got no advice. Wayne must busy.

My Tri-Star 4D has been in full time LEO service as my primary patrol flashlight since mid 2004 (if memory serves correctly). It has held up very well, but I have the hankering for more lumens.

I'm thinking about upgrading the LED's on my Tri-Star 4D from Luxeon 3's to three of the newer generation LED's. Which of the new LED's would work best? It is a direct drive 4D cell using strictly alkalines. I am fairly certain that the LED's are currently wired in parallel.

How would I hook the LED's up? Series or parallel? I would prefer direct drive. Would a boost circuit be necessary or advantageous?

Is there enough heat sink (both heat wise and physical room) to attach 4 LED's?

I know that's a lot of questions. Thanks for any help that you can give.

Thanks,

Buck

 

[Gunner12]

Re: Upgrading LED's on Elektrolumens Tri-Star 4D...

The Seoul P4 U-bin would be the best for this swap. I would also recommend installing a driver to give a more regulated output.

With 4D and directdrive, you would have to have matching Vf LEDs in parallel.

I don't haven't seen the light so no advice from me on the last question.

 

[Bucket]

Re: Upgrading LED's on Elektrolumens Tri-Star 4D...

Here is a pic just to show how this light has fared from 3+ years of patrol use.

The head...

A pic of the emitters.

Heat sink diameter is 1-13/16". I believe I can remove the pcb from the heat sink with little problem.

Buck

 

[Bucket]

Re: Upgrading LED's on Elektrolumens Tri-Star 4D...

The aluminum disc that the pcb sits on is 1/8" thick, but it is in excellent contact with a .2" shoulder around it's perimeter in the flashlight head. In addition, it is in contact with the body of the light. It dissipates heat well now.

Flashlight head...the shoulder is hard to see...

Bottom of heat sink.

 

[Gunner12]

Re: Upgrading LED's on Elektrolumens Tri-Star 4D...

Doesn't look too hard to swap in 3 Bare Seoul LEDs.

You might need these copper things to raise the LED to the right focus point. Also make sure to isolate the positive bottom of the Seoul LED.

The heatsink looks good, 4 LEDs shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Bucket]

Thanks!

What would I use to isolate the bottom of the P4?

If I were to do a driver, which one would you recommend? I'm a noob, but was considering a Shark from the Sandwich Shoppe.

Buck

 

[Gunner12]

A think enough layer(actually pretty thin) of Arctic Alumni is enough. Just test continuity before mounting the LED.

For the driver, I'm not sure but the Shark should work. But then, you would also have to modify the LEDs to run in series. Buying matching Vf Seoul LEDs might be a simpler idea.

It might also be possible to send the light to a modder to be modded.

 

[john2551]

Buck,

I also have a EL Tri-Star 4D. We are in a small group. Wayne said he made less than 100 of these. These were state of the art back in 2004 when i got mine.
Anyways a cheap way to make your light brighter is to use NiMh D's. I used Alkalines when i first got the light. When i switched to 12,000mah nimh cells the light was WAY brighter! I too still use the light often. It is like a tank!