User Interface Terminolgy: Side button, Side switch, Body Switch. I'm confused

[MTHall]

Due to Arthritis I can't easily use a tail switch to select modes. I have a Thrunite Archer 2AA which I find requires (for me) a delightfully light pressure to turn on the tail switch and just as equally light touch for the side button to cycle modes. I would like double the lumens (almost), 2-3x more diameter, and in body charger. So before I go back to the drawing board, I need to know what the correct terminology is: Side button Or Side switch OR Body Switch?
Thanks very much for any enlightenment

 

[chillinn]

I think the two most common are tail clicky (TC) and side clicky (SC), but "clicky" is kind of clicky. They're switches. "Clicky" and "twisty" are colloquialisms. This page seems definitive. But there are even more types than are listed there. But I expect "side switch" is what you're looking for.

 

[MTHall]

I think the two most common are tail clicky (TC) and side clicky (SC), but "clicky" is kind of clicky. They're switches. "Clicky" and "twisty" are colloquialisms. This page seems definitive. But there are even more types than are listed there. But I expect "side switch" is what you're looking for.

Thanks very much

 

[knucklegary]

MT, have you tried a Zebralight? Their hand held lights use a tactical feeling clicky (SW) located on the base of the heads. They also use Hi Cri emitters. As long as you're not located in BC. I don't know why they stopped selling to Canada..

Like you, I have a limited functional hands. Tail cap switches (especially shrouded) some are impossible to activate. Streamlights long plunger travel to click-on/off AA and AAA I have difficulty with those.

 

[MTHall]

I've heard they are great lights.

 

[hsa]

I'm right in that arthritis boat with you so now I'm all about side switches. A shrouded tail switch is a two handed operation for me.

 

[bykfixer]

Some lights have long travel buttons or hard switch cover to thwart accidental turn on. Same with shrouds around the button. Often a twisty that attempts to be water tight has o'rings that cause it to resist being twisted. Gone are the days of the household flashlight where simply slid a lever forward or backward. Thanks to lumen wars and tacticool things are just not simple like they used to be.

One thing about going bigger in size is the relector being larger will produce what appears to be more light from the same output. Take a 300 lumen aa size light and a 300 lumen D cell size light and the D size light will likely appear brighter. Reflector shape also helps the matter. A flat, shallow reflector adds spread to the light. A deep reflector creates more throw of the light. The term candela is often used to indicate how well it evenly spreads or how far it throws. Again, the 300 lumen light with high candela throws better. A lower candela would indicate better light spread for lighting up a larger area like an unlit shed or crawl space/attic.

If you have the $ a Maglite ML150LRS is about the size of a 2C flashlight, has an easy to press side switch and can be kept on a charger when not in use. And it's pretty bright.

 

[MTHall]

I'm right in that arthritis boat with you so now I'm all about side switches. A shrouded tail switch is a two handed operation for me.

Let's keep in touch as to what works for us Feel free to message me Maybe we can compare notes

 

[MTHall]

Some lights have long travel buttons or hard switch cover to thwart accidental turn on. Same with shrouds around the button. Often a twisty that attempts to be water tight has o'rings that cause it to resist being twisted. Gone are the days of the household flashlight where simply slid a lever forward or backward. Thanks to lumen wars and tacticool things are just not simple like they used to be.

One thing about going bigger in size is the relector being larger will produce what appears to be more light from the same output. Take a 300 lumen aa size light and a 300 lumen D cell size light and the D size light will likely appear brighter. Reflector shape also helps the matter. A flat, shallow reflector adds spread to the light. A deep reflector creates more throw of the light. The term candela is often used to indicate how well it evenly spreads or how far it throws. Again, the 300 lumen light with high candela throws better. A lower candela would indicate better light spread for lighting up a larger area like an unlit shed or crawl space/attic.

If you have the $ a Maglite ML150LRS is about the size of a 2C flashlight, has an easy to press side switch and can be kept on a charger when not in use. And it's pretty bright.

I didn't understand the reflector but it makes sense