Whats the Brightest Greatest Single CR123A Light

tigman_tim

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Jan 18, 2012
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hivoltage,
you might want to consider some high CRI lights, if wire color is important.

I like my hi cri PEAK.
 

twl

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Feb 20, 2005
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TN
I thought the OP asked about "single CR123".
Not IMR or Li-Ion.

I think that the Malkoff MDC SHO is pretty good with 300 lumens out of a single CR123, and 45-60 minutes run time.
 

jalibass

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Jan 15, 2008
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I keep checking back several times a year to see if anything will blow the doors off my Nitecore Extreme Q5. For me this light is perfect for my line of work and play.
 

Ceya!

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Aug 19, 2012
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Nitecore EC1 for me. I haven't used much single CR123 lights but with the options it has and size. A good choice.

Easy the clip on a bill of a hat to free up your hands.

EA1 for AA batery.

S/F,
CEYA!
 

HighlanderNorth

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I'd avoid using rechargeable RCR123(3.7v) batteries on high in any single CR123 light unless its for short term emergency situations because these lights will get very hot in a hurry and run times will be poor. If you really need a 500-770 lumen light for typical indoor electrical work(which I doubt), you should get a 2 CR123 light that also uses 18650 rechargeables, but they will be too large for pockets and will require holster use.

On the bright side, you really don't need 550-770 lumens to do standard electrical work. Any good quality, newish single Cr123 light should provide between 200-280 lumens on high/turbo with a CR123 battery, which can be had for cheap at the top online battery sites. You should be able to get Titanium Innovations brand CR123 batts for $1 each and they are very good, and get good ratings here.

As far as the real question, it would be best to get a light that is consistently easy and convenient to use. In other words, one that easily switches onto the setting you want without being complicated or having a switch that can be tricky to get to consistently switch to medium when you need it to without needing to be repeatedly clicked back and forth(as the Zebralight switch is prone to do). I actually use a ZL SC52 AA light, which is as bright as most CR123 lights while using one AA battery, but the switch must be clicked at just the right speed or it won't go to medium on the first try. There is no memory with the ZL switch style(UI).

Someone recommended the SWM V11r and that type of UI might be a good choice, also if you want a good but relatively inexpensive light that is super simple to use every time, I still recommend the Jetbeam BC10. It's a rear clicky light that runs on a CR123 and has 2 useful modes, 30L and 270L. It's 30L mode is bright enough for 95% of your needs, it's built solidly and only costs around $35 or so. I have owned one for nearly 2 years and carried it every day for over a year. It's a bit of a thrower, so it will have a tight hot spot and medium sized spill beam. It's beam on high will light up objects at quite a distance.
 

hivoltage

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Ha....just stumbled upon this thread on a search for something else. I ended up getting the Oilight S10. Now looking sor a new light for everybody for 2013. To answer a few questions, we stock CR123 batteries in our storeroom so that is not a problem. Also since I started this.....I have bought all rechargeables and chargers. Any new ideas. BTW...I hate the green tint on the S10, but nobody else noticed it!
 

AVService

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Dec 30, 2011
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Ha....just stumbled upon this thread on a search for something else. I ended up getting the Oilight S10. Now looking sor a new light for everybody for 2013. To answer a few questions, we stock CR123 batteries in our storeroom so that is not a problem. Also since I started this.....I have bought all rechargeables and chargers. Any new ideas. BTW...I hate the green tint on the S10, but nobody else noticed it!

Um...... if you read reviews of the S10 that green tint is right at the top of the feature list?

Also this thread only started less than 2 months ago and you are getting more this soon?
Where do I sign up to work?

I like the Eagletac D24C Clicky for my daily electrical work use and you can get them in different tints too.

I do prefer the AA options though overall for this and I carry a Zebra SC52 and a Fenix LD12 in my pocket or pouch at all times.
The ZL is floody and nice for Panel work and general lighting and the Fenix throws better for Crawls and Attics and has a clicky,it is my main light for work.

Ed
 
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Sp@rky

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May 17, 2012
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Am I the only electrician that refuses to use any light made from conductive materials? Everyone always talks about the importance of high cri but no one seems bothered about putting a large piece of aluminum into potentially live panels.
We spend a fortune on, (for the most part inferior), insulated tools but disregard one of our main tools.

Apologies if this is too far from topic.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2
 

koolranch

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Nitecore SRT3 with going gears sale will get you what you need. 15%off until Sunday I think.



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hivoltage

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My electricians do not work in live panels under any circumstances. For one thing it is against the law, Pick up a copy of NFPA 70-E and read up. And if you do stick metal into a live panel, you are required to use insulated tools and wear proper protective gear. So if you anybody is sticking a large piece of aluminum into a live panel, they should be fired or somebody might have a huge lawsuit on their hands!!!
 

Sp@rky

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May 17, 2012
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My post wasn't supposed to be argumentative. Maybe I worded it incorrectly. Sorry if it came across poorly.
Large piece of aluminum referred to a flashlight if that wasn't clear.
Live work is something to be avoided of course. But have you never encountered a fault (mainly on PLCs and computer systems) that conveniently disappeared when the power is cycled?

Depends on the definition of live work. No one I've ever met in 12 years shut down half a plant or production line to open a cabinet and reset an overload. Neither have I ever turned the lights off to an entire office floor to change a flouro tube.

Anyway, this is probably too far off topic already. I hope you and your crew can find a suitable light that helps you do your work. Stay safe.


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hivoltage

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No worries, I didnt mean to come argumentative either. We make every effort to put all resets and PLC controls on the front of the panel. Dont consider changing a tube hot work. I have a form, if somebody demands we turn power off to perform a task, their manager signs the form and takes all responsibility for an accident. No one has ever signed that form!!! Anyhow, I bought them all Olight S10's....but that was last Christmas. Thats how olt this post is...LOL.
 

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