Which zebralight Headtorch should I buy?

ltec

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Sep 23, 2013
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Always wanted one but couldn't justify the price. I am now going to buy one coz my pd35 stopped working. So i want to make sure I don't buy the wrong one. Which one should I buy and why.
Its for everything, mechanic, farming, electrician work and walking. It has to be 18650.
 
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I have ZL mule for years. I'm a mechanic so no reflector for me. I need max field of view with minimum head movement.


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I guess you need to narrow it down to tint (warm, cool, or high cri) and whether you want a mule, frosted or smooth. That should eliminate some choices
 
I've looked at zebralight website and their is that many options I dont know the difference. I think I want no hotspot and not really white but I don't know what the mule stuff is about, I don't see anything about that or smooth or frosted.
I'm that confused and its that expensive I'm afraid of buying the wrong one. I'm very close to forgetting about it and just buying an olight one.
 
I just ordered an H604fc, it has a frosted lens which produces a diffuse, broad light with a bit of throw. It is called Floody. A flood, or mule is just a broad circle of light with no hot spot at all. The reflector version (not Floody or flood) is like other torches with a defined hot spot that throws the light down range, with some good spill. I got the 4000k which means it's a warmer white, without being too yellow. 5000k is whiter and cooler looking.
 
Can the medium on it be programmed higher than 147 lumens?
If I want a wide flood with no hotspot and not cool white then are the two I choose from are h604c/d.
 
Can the medium on it be programmed higher than 147 lumens?
If I want a wide flood with no hotspot and not cool white then are the two I choose from are h604c/d.

Yes, sounds like the 604c. No, highest medium is 147, but high2 can be 305.
 
First of all, I think you're really going to enjoy whichever ZL headlamp you choose.

Beam Shape:
The H600 series has a reflector and clear glass, so it's most like a regular flashlight, with a definite bright center area (for distance viewing) and good spill for still seeing closeup.
The H600F series has a reflector too, but adds a lightly frosted glass in front, which smooths the beam a bit. It still has a brighter center, but not as pronounced as the H600 series.
The H604 series has no reflector, often called a "mule", this beam is pure flood, so no center hot spot, excellent for closeup, but not so good for distance.

I find the F series to be the best all-around beam shape, giving a nice even flood for closeup work, but still having a bit of a brighter center spot which makes it useful for walking around. The regular 600 series, with the clear glass, is also an excellent choice, as you can always put a piece of frosted tape over the glass to even out the beam if you want. I'd only purchase the 604 series if you wanted a strictly closeup light.

By the way, one other reason I like the F series, is that the current crop of LEDs, when used with a reflector, tend to have a somewhat obvious color shift within the beam, meaning the color can be a bit different between the center and the edges, and the slightly frosted glass helps smooth that out.

Beam Color:
Here you need to consider both the Kelvin rating (color temp) as well as the CRI rating.
Kelvin refers more to the tint of the beam:
5700KCool White: This is usually slightly on the blue side, which many folks prefer, as it can appear as clean white.
5000K Listed with a "d" after the number, so H600d. Still slightly cool, but can begin to look warm.
4500K Neutral White: Listed with a "w" after the number, so H600w. This is a bit warmer, and often gives better color outdoors.
4000K Warm White: Listed with a "c" after the number, so H600c. Definitely warm now, sometimes a bit yellow. Very good outdoors.
CRI refers to how well the light renders colors, with numbers from 100 (best) down to 80 (ok). Typically, the lower numbers mean it wont show RED as well.

Personally, I find the Kelvin number to be more important, as it tends to influence to the overall color of the beam, but once I get the right color, I also prefer a HIGH CRI light, as I feel it produces a higher quality light, so I tend toward either a HIGH CRI "d" or "c" light, but I do have several "w" lights that have an excellent beam color. It seems that 4500K color temperature hits a sweet spot, and even though it's not HIGH CRI, the light looks very nice.

Mainly, I'd stay away from the cool white lights unless you just prefer that tint.

So, I'd recommend the H600F in either the "d" (5000K High CRI), the "c" (4000K High CRI), or "w" (4500K, 80+ CRI).

Remember, if you purchase from ZL, you'll have 30 days to try it out, and if you find out the beam isn't right for you, or the tint is awful, you can exchange it for a different one, with the cost of shipping it back being your only extra expense.

Anyway, good luck with your purchase, and let us know how it works out : )
 
First of all, I think you're really going to enjoy whichever ZL headlamp you choose.

Beam Shape:
The H600 series has a reflector and clear glass, so it's most like a regular flashlight, with a definite bright center area (for distance viewing) and good spill for still seeing closeup.
The H600F series has a reflector too, but adds a lightly frosted glass in front, which smooths the beam a bit. It still has a brighter center, but not as pronounced as the H600 series.
The H604 series has no reflector, often called a "mule", this beam is pure flood, so no center hot spot, excellent for closeup, but not so good for distance.

I find the F series to be the best all-around beam shape, giving a nice even flood for closeup work, but still having a bit of a brighter center spot which makes it useful for walking around. The regular 600 series, with the clear glass, is also an excellent choice, as you can always put a piece of frosted tape over the glass to even out the beam if you want. I'd only purchase the 604 series if you wanted a strictly closeup light.

By the way, one other reason I like the F series, is that the current crop of LEDs, when used with a reflector, tend to have a somewhat obvious color shift within the beam, meaning the color can be a bit different between the center and the edges, and the slightly frosted glass helps smooth that out.

Beam Color:
Here you need to consider both the Kelvin rating (color temp) as well as the CRI rating.
Kelvin refers more to the tint of the beam:
5700KCool White: This is usually slightly on the blue side, which many folks prefer, as it can appear as clean white.
5000K Listed with a "d" after the number, so H600d. Still slightly cool, but can begin to look warm.
4500K Neutral White: Listed with a "w" after the number, so H600w. This is a bit warmer, and often gives better color outdoors.
4000K Warm White: Listed with a "c" after the number, so H600c. Definitely warm now, sometimes a bit yellow. Very good outdoors.
CRI refers to how well the light renders colors, with numbers from 100 (best) down to 80 (ok). Typically, the lower numbers mean it wont show RED as well.

Personally, I find the Kelvin number to be more important, as it tends to influence to the overall color of the beam, but once I get the right color, I also prefer a HIGH CRI light, as I feel it produces a higher quality light, so I tend toward either a HIGH CRI "d" or "c" light, but I do have several "w" lights that have an excellent beam color. It seems that 4500K color temperature hits a sweet spot, and even though it's not HIGH CRI, the light looks very nice.

Mainly, I'd stay away from the cool white lights unless you just prefer that tint.

So, I'd recommend the H600F in either the "d" (5000K High CRI), the "c" (4000K High CRI), or "w" (4500K, 80+ CRI).

Remember, if you purchase from ZL, you'll have 30 days to try it out, and if you find out the beam isn't right for you, or the tint is awful, you can exchange it for a different one, with the cost of shipping it back being your only extra expense.

Anyway, good luck with your purchase, and let us know how it works out : )

Thanks I learned more in your post than a weeks reading on the internet. I will buy one of the 3 you recommend, I'll take an extra look on tints on youtube and make my decision.
 
Just so you know, most LED lights I've bought, including High CRI ZL lights, appear to my eyes to have a slightly greenish tint, which I really don't like. It just seems to be in the nature of the LEDs used by ZL. However, I've found a solution, which involves adding a small circular magenta filter to the front glass, using a tiny piece of double sided scotch tape. If, when you get your light, you find that you really like it, but it seems a tiny bit green, just PM me and I'll send you some of the proper magenta filter material.

And one final note. The ZL user interface can seem a bit daunting at first, but don't get discouraged. It's easily worth it to spend a little time watching videos, or asking questions here, and then just playing with the light to get to know how it works. Once you understand it, and use it for awhile, I think you'll see why there are so many devoted fans here on CPF. Good luck, and have fun, and feel free to ask any further questions, either here or by PM.
 
Just so you know, most LED lights I've bought, including High CRI ZL lights, appear to my eyes to have a slightly greenish tint, which I really don't like. It just seems to be in the nature of the LEDs used by ZL.

That was certainly common in the past, and still is with some of their lights. However, two of them I have found to have no green at all. The H600Fc IV headlamp (it has a 4000K CCT and a very neutral tint), and the SC64w HI flashlight (it has around a 4500K CCT, and a very slightly magenta tint).

The SC600w IV HI also is pretty neutral. It looks more green than the SC64w HI, but I think that's only because the 64 is slightly magenta.
 
That was certainly common in the past, and still is with some of their lights. However, two of them I have found to have no green at all. The H600Fc IV headlamp (it has a 4000K CCT and a very neutral tint), and the SC64w HI flashlight (it has around a 4500K CCT, and a very slightly magenta tint).

The SC600w IV HI also is pretty neutral. It looks more green than the SC64w HI, but I think that's only because the 64 is slightly magenta.

I'm happy to hear that at least a few of their lights have better tints. I gave up a long time ago worrying about it, and just use filters on all my lights to get the desired tint, that way I don't spend any time chasing that ever elusive "neutral" tint, and can just concentrate on the other features that are important to me.
 
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