Why no micro switched tail clicky AAAs?

EZO

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 15, 2010
Messages
1,431
Location
Vermont, USA
For me the ideal AAA keychain / pocket light would be about the length of a Maratac, (or slightly shorter if at all possible) have four basic modes (high, med, low, super moonlight) a hidden mode that simply reverses that order and a tail clicky, but tail clickies tend to add too much length to small lights. Yet there are all kinds of highly reliable and very tiny click-able micro switches on the market but we never see them incorporated into small lights. Why? It seems like the proverbial no-brainer.

There are other things on my AAA wish list but I'll save those for another thread.
 
Last edited:
Don't know. Seems like I have many devices that use micro switches. iPod, cell phone, cameras and related attachments, blue tooth mouse, etc, etc. I'm not sure why a micro switch would cause more battery drain than a regular clicky, on is on, off is off.
 
Have you seen the LiteFlux LF2XT? Not as short as you want, but it will do so much more because of its programmability.

Geoff
 
Have you seen the LiteFlux LF2XT? Not as short as you want, but it will do so much more because of its programmability.

Geoff


Thanks Geoff. I've sorta' known about the LiteFlux LF2XT somewhere in my peripheral vision but I've never looked into it. It looks quite remarkable and is on the track that I'm talking about. Seems like the UI could be amazing or could drive one wacky. Tell me more. Definitely worth checking out by the looks of it.

Somehow, I've been developing a craving for a high tech AAA light that goes beyond the Maratacs and the ITP A03, even the Preon I. Something that is designed to accept a 10440 battery, has a well thought out mode interface and has more "Je Ne Sais Quoi" plus the I know exactly what I want part! Oh, and it isn't so long that it hits my leg when I'm driving and the thing is in the ignition on my keychain.

I'm waiting anxiously for the Tiablo E3A Exquisite Series AAA, not quite what I've described in my initial post but a very interesting new light that will hopefully soon be available and I plan to buy. Don't 'spose it has a micro switch though and it's kinda' long.

 
Last edited:
My iPod nano has a parasitic battery drain. Even if I don't use it, I have to charge it up once a month.

The problem with micro switches is they can not take a lot of current, just electronic signal current (micro amps). An AAA light feeds 250 mA to the LED on high, pulls close to 1A through the tail cap. 1.5A if someone puts a 10440 battery in.

The other problem with a micro switch is they are momentary. As soon as you stop pushing on it the switch turns itself off. There is a latching circuit in the electronics that keeps the power on. The circuit turns on a relay that can handle more current. The circuit that monitors the micro switch and turns on the relay is causing the parasitic battery drain.

Zebralight does it by having a micro switch/circuit that has a very low parasitic drain.
Note Zebralight puts the micro switch in the head. For the micro switch to be in the tail there is a need to run an extra pair of wires between the head and tail to handle the micro switch signal in addition to power.
You can see the complexity of handling both high amp power and low amp signal in the Fenix LD40 battery carrier - a spot in the middle with 2 contact rings around it. Ground, power, signal. Very difficult AND EXPENSIVE to do that in a simple body tube of an AAA light.
 
Thanks Geoff. I've sorta' known about the LiteFlux LF2XT somewhere in my peripheral vision but I've never looked into it. It looks quite remarkable and is on the track that I'm talking about. Seems like the UI could be amazing or could drive one wacky. Tell me more. Definitely worth checking out by the looks of it.

Somehow, I've been developing a craving for a high tech AAA light that goes beyond the Maratacs and the ITP A03, even the Preon I. Something that is designed to accept a 10440 battery, has a well thought out mode interface and has more "Je Ne Sais Quoi" plus the I know exactly what I want part! Oh, and it isn't so long that it hits my leg when I'm driving and the thing is in the ignition on my keychain.

I'm waiting anxiously for the Tiablo E3A Exquisite Series AAA, not quite what I've described in my initial post but a very interesting new light that will hopefully soon be available and I plan to buy. Don't 'spose it has a micro switch though and it's kinda' long.


The LF2XT is designed for 10440.
 
My iPod nano has a parasitic battery drain. Even if I don't use it, I have to charge it up once a month.

The problem with micro switches is they can not take a lot of current, just electronic signal current (micro amps). An AAA light feeds 250 mA to the LED on high, pulls close to 1A through the tail cap. 1.5A if someone puts a 10440 battery in.

The other problem with a micro switch is they are momentary. As soon as you stop pushing on it the switch turns itself off. There is a latching circuit in the electronics that keeps the power on. The circuit turns on a relay that can handle more current. The circuit that monitors the micro switch and turns on the relay is causing the parasitic battery drain.

Zebralight does it by having a micro switch/circuit that has a very low parasitic drain.
Note Zebralight puts the micro switch in the head. For the micro switch to be in the tail there is a need to run an extra pair of wires between the head and tail to handle the micro switch signal in addition to power.
You can see the complexity of handling both high amp power and low amp signal in the Fenix LD40 battery carrier - a spot in the middle with 2 contact rings around it. Ground, power, signal. Very difficult AND EXPENSIVE to do that in a simple body tube of an AAA light.

This is very useful feedback. I would say this essentially answers my initial question here. Thanks!
 
Last edited:
My iPod nano has a parasitic battery drain. Even if I don't use it, I have to charge it up once a month.

The problem with micro switches is they can not take a lot of current, just electronic signal current (micro amps). An AAA light feeds 250 mA to the LED on high, pulls close to 1A through the tail cap. 1.5A if someone puts a 10440 battery in.

The other problem with a micro switch is they are momentary. As soon as you stop pushing on it the switch turns itself off. There is a latching circuit in the electronics that keeps the power on. The circuit turns on a relay that can handle more current. The circuit that monitors the micro switch and turns on the relay is causing the parasitic battery drain.

Zebralight does it by having a micro switch/circuit that has a very low parasitic drain.
Note Zebralight puts the micro switch in the head. For the micro switch to be in the tail there is a need to run an extra pair of wires between the head and tail to handle the micro switch signal in addition to power.
You can see the complexity of handling both high amp power and low amp signal in the Fenix LD40 battery carrier - a spot in the middle with 2 contact rings around it. Ground, power, signal. Very difficult AND EXPENSIVE to do that in a simple body tube of an AAA light.

That hits the nail on the head. :thumbsup:
 
One problem I see is how you put the key chain attachment point at the tail, where it belongs, AND put the switch at the tail.

The diameter it so small that using a raised flange would make it difficult to get to the button inside the flange.

Nobody wants a 'key chain' light that doesn't attach at the tail end, so it hangs fairly straight.

And yeah: the obvious: increase in length, and the increased possibility that the light is going to get turned on in your pocket by your keys...where most AAA lights tend to live.

Twisty lights solve and/or avoid ALL these problems.

I don't think the manufacturers are going to change from this proven and nearly fool proof design.
 
After removing the third dead battery from my AAA pocket-light, caused by the switch being pressed accidentally while in my pocket, I gave up and bought a twist-switch torch.
 
EZO... I think you might really like the LF2XT. While it does offer the possibility of a mind boggling array of programming options (which I am NOT interested in myself) in standard mode, the UI is just like the original D10.

Press for on.
Two quick presses for MIN
Quick press then press hold for MAX
Press and hold for ramp up
Press and hold for ramp down
Press for off.

Really simple!

The parasitic drain seems quite minimal on the light, though I have no specific data on what it is. This has never been an issue with my usage of the light.

Another really cool feature it has is a built in battery tester which measures the voltage of the cell while it is under load and reads it out to you in flashes to two decimal places. More accurate than a DMM because it's reading the cell while it is under load. Gotta love that!

Beam characteristics are beautiful, creamy soft floody light with a fairly wide and diffuse central beam. Of course runs on 10440, AAA NiMh, AAA size Eneloop, AAA size lithium primary, AAA alkaline (yuck!) ;)

With this light you can get deep into programming it for a great many options or keep it simple just like a D10. These are reasons why the LF2XT is so highly revered by those who have them and why Liteflux fans are, well, Liteflux fans!
 
Last edited:
One problem I see is how you put the key chain attachment point at the tail, where it belongs, ...
Nobody wants a 'key chain' light that doesn't attach at the tail end, so it hangs fairly straight. ...
I like my UK2AAAeLED because the keychain attachment is at the head. This allows the light to automatically shine on the keys and keyhole. It is the yellow 2AAA side by side in the picture.
With the attachment at the tail the light the light shines away from the keys and keyhole. The Mag Solitaire got around this by providing a strap with small split rings at both ends so we can turn the light around.
Keychain-lights-2010.jpg
 
EZO... I think you might really like the LF2XT.

Thanks DHart! Yeah, the LF2XT seems really impressive. I notice they're not that easy to find in stock anywhere. Steve Ku offers them on his web site (expandku.com, although he has no stock either at the moment) along with some tantalizing custom options. Hmmn.....the emitter upgrade brings it to 80 bucks and I think I would go for that and I wonder what a few of these other options might add to the price. The titanium body with a tritium button slot would be cool and a sapphire window would be a must have! Isn't this how it always goes?

* Titanium head and battery tube
* Titanium button housing
* Titanium button with tritium slot
* "Shorty" body tube
* Aspherical projector lens
* Sapphire glass windows
* XP-E to XP-G emitter swaps
* Installation of smooth beam TIR
* Increase spring tension in switch
* Titanium anodizing



 
If the liteflux turns on in your pocet, you got a auto off mode. It will turn off after 3 min i think.
 
Why not a Reed switch in the head ?
(a magnetically operated switch)

Instead of a 'Tail' clicky the actual head of the light is pressed in to activate it,
or even a twist switch at the tail end...

Perhaps some kind of pneumatic pressure switch ?

The 'main' power switch does not even have to be the one in the tailcap...
 
Anybody know what's up with Liteflux's web site? I tried to visit but according to Google it's compromised with malware. It's unlikely that Liteflux is responsible for the malware but you would think they would address the issue. This couldn't be good for their business.

EZO... Liteflux is a small company and they have a lot of emphasis on some products other than flashlights. Not sure why their web presence is poor, though they do have a FB page.

LiteFlux LED Flashlights

Looks like they sell everything they can make, so marketing is not something they're putting any effort into.
 
Thanks DHart! Yeah, the LF2XT seems really impressive. I notice they're not that easy to find in stock anywhere. Steve Ku offers them on his web site (expandku.com, although he has no stock either at the moment) along with some tantalizing custom options. Hmmn.....the emitter upgrade brings it to 80 bucks and I think I would go for that and I wonder what a few of these other options might add to the price. The titanium body with a tritium button slot would be cool and a sapphire window would be a must have! Isn't this how it always goes?

* Titanium head and battery tube
* Titanium button housing
* Titanium button with tritium slot
* "Shorty" body tube
* Aspherical projector lens
* Sapphire glass windows
* XP-E to XP-G emitter swaps
* Installation of smooth beam TIR
* Increase spring tension in switch
* Titanium anodizing



The new LF2XT will be out soon. Slightly revised body design in stainless steel, using R5 XP-G and having a SMO reflector. But we're not sure if Steve will be offering a 4th run of titanium bodies.
 
Top