Wire gauge question

[donn_]

I finally broke down and ordered a Hakko soldering station, a few tips and some solder.

After some practice, I'm going to try to solder one of these:

to an 8" lead ending in a female tamiya socket, for a hobby charger.

The Tamiya socket lead is black/red 20AWG stranded.

The question is, for future soldering projects, how does one determine the gauge of wire to use?

When and why do I use stranded versus solid copper?

Di I tin the exposed wire ends before soldering them to the fixture?

Thanks in advance.

 

[sawlight]

Link: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

edit: my cut and paste didn't work, there is a table on the link above telling what the current caacities of each wire gauge is, along with voltage drops of each.

 

[brickbat]

...

The question is, for future soldering projects, how does one determine the gauge of wire to use?

When and why do I use stranded versus solid copper?

Di I tin the exposed wire ends before soldering them to the fixture?

Thanks in advance.

There are at least 2 factors to consider in sizing the wire size. The first is the safe current 'rating' similar to what's in the above link. The 2nd is the voltage drop your circuit can allow - that may cause you to pick a larger wire gauge than the 'safe' maximum rating.

Stranded beats solid in most cases because of its better flexibility.

Generally no need to tin the wire before soldering. If its stranded, it helps to twist the strands together by rolling your fingers over the stripped end before soldering or having to put the wire through a solder terminal like your picture shows.

 

[donn_]

Very handy link, thanks.

I guess the most important parameter to consider would be "Maximum amps for power transmission?"

My universal charger, for example, runs at 0.9A or 1.8A. The chart seems to indicate the need for 18AWG, but the charger is wired with 20.

 

[hoffner5]

When and why do I use stranded versus solid copper?

Do I tin the exposed wire ends before soldering them to the fixture?

Stranded would generally be preferred for the applications you're thinking (indoors, frequent use on the workbench). Solid wire can kink if flexed too often (though less a problem with the smaller gauges). Solid wire generally wins when cost and environmental "sturdiness" are issues.

And remember that stranded wire of the same gauge is slightly larger than solid core, so keep that in mind when stripping it.

I would tin the wire ends first.

 

[LuxLuthor]

The current in a given wire gauge is one factor, another is the cumulative resistance for any given AWG wire based on length. Here is another resource....at bottom of table, enter your length and/or amps to see the resistance and/or voltage drop. One other site I had bookmarked.

I always tin the wire, stranded or not. Makes it easier to solder to destination.

 

[tanawah]

I have wired hundreds of these and similar plugs over the years.

Solid wire for fixed installation, stranded for non fixed. More strands = greater flexibility. Always tin wire as it will make the job faster when you solder to the plug. You should also tin the plug tails and allow to cool before you proceed. If you get it too hot the plastic insulation will melt and it may short.

You have 5 seconds to tin the plug tails and same when you make the connection. Make sure you keep your soldering iron tip clean and set temperature to 340-380 for that type of plug. If you are too cold it takes too long to flow the solder. Put the plug in a clamp so it does not move and if your hand is not steady you can do the same for the wire. Make certain you dont melt the wire insulation also.

 

[donn_]

What is the mechanical connection to the tails on the above plug? Is the wire supposed to go through the holes in the tails?

 

[LuxLuthor]

What is the mechanical connection to the tails on the above plug? Is the wire supposed to go through the holes in the tails?

it makes the setup easier, but it doesn't matter, and pretinned wire won't bend through and around hold. I would use flux on that surface and maybe rough up the surface for better solder connections.

 

[dat2zip]

I have wired hundreds of these and similar plugs over the years.

Solid wire for fixed installation, stranded for non fixed. More strands = greater flexibility. Always tin wire as it will make the job faster when you solder to the plug. You should also tin the plug tails and allow to cool before you proceed. If you get it too hot the plastic insulation will melt and it may short.

You have 5 seconds to tin the plug tails and same when you make the connection. Make sure you keep your soldering iron tip clean and set temperature to 340-380 for that type of plug. If you are too cold it takes too long to flow the solder. Put the plug in a clamp so it does not move and if your hand is not steady you can do the same for the wire. Make certain you dont melt the wire insulation also.

I hope you mean Celsius . 340C (658F) - 380C (716F).

Wayne

 

[donn_]

Thanks for all the advice. I picked up a bunch of Radio Shack cheapo wire and solder, and already had a whole box full of little terminals and other saved junk. I intend to do a good bit of practicing before trying the real thing.

 

[LuxLuthor]

Do a couple tests. With and without flux. With and without roughing up the surface. Also, there is solder....and cheap resemblances to solder.