Wolf Eyes Sniper and Explorer

[tomcat017]

Hey..

Does anyone know what the difference between the wolf-eyes sniper model and explorer (6M) model are? The features look almost identical to me.

Also, if I were to buy the raider model, and get a more powerful lumens factory bulb, is there any way to use higher capacity batteries so that the run time isn't hurt too much? Thanks for your help!

 

[DUQ]

The 6M Explorer has the larger turbo head. It uses a D36(36mm) lamp instead of the D26(26mm). Gives it more throw. As for the Raider, I would go with the M90 and a 168 extender kit. This allows you to use three 18650 cells and you could pick up the LF E0-13 lamp.

 

[Mark@LF]

Tomcat017,

Our D36 LA cannot fit in 6M Explorer's and Raider's turbo bezel, only fit in the bezel of M90. However, the regular bezel of Raider can fit in our D26 LAs. You may choose our 9 series (ES-9, SR-9, HO-9, EO-9) if you want to use 150A rechargeable batteries.

If you choose M90, you may choose all the 9L models and 12 series, add a 168 extender kit and you may even choose 13 series.

You may refer to the specification chart to see which LA suits your needs most.

Mark

 

[GreySave]

Tomcat:


The big plus for the Raider (for me anyway) was the ability to switch from the 150A rechargeables to primaries quickly and easily. No lamp change necessary.

Mark is correct about the D26 bezel for the Raider. They are very inexpensive, and even less so if you order it at the same time as the Raider (To save extra shipping later). I made that change to enable me to use the Lumens Factory lamps, which are WONDERFUL and reasonably priced. If I want more runtime I just swap back to the turbo bezel.

Battery life is shorter in the Raider model, although Mike at PTS did tell me that higher capacity 150A cells might be available in about six months, maybe less.

 

[Paul_in_Maryland]

Mike at PTS did tell me that higher capacity 150A cells might be available in about six months, maybe less.

The 168B went from 1400 to 1500 (169B); the 168A from 2000 to 2200. (It actually began life at 1800, back in 2003.) The 150A will probably go from 1200 mAh to 1300 or 1350.

Bear in mind, these ratings are specified at a leisurely, 5-hour rate of discharge (0.2C). Discharge a cell over 30 to 80 minutes, as we commonly do, and its capacity will drop by 15 to 25 percent.

 

[jclarksnakes]

I have several different W-E lights. One of them is the 2 cell size Sniper. The beauty of the Wolf-Eyes lights is the ability to interchange between primary and rechargeable cells and different lamp assemblies. I have a 9 volt D26 lamp assembly from one of the 9Volt Wolf-Eyes in my Sniper and use two unprotected rechargeable 123 cells in it. It makes this a very small very bright light. Runtime is obviously not very good. I could put one of the 9Volt lamp assemblies on one of the four cell bodies and power it with 2 of the 18650 cells and get very long runtime. These lights are very adaptable.
JC

 

[tomcat017]

Greysave and JC: Thanks! So you can interchange the rechargeables and regular 123A cells on some of the wolf-eyes lights? How does that work? Thanks..

-mt

 

[GreySave]

<< So you can interchange the rechargeables and regular 123A cells on some of the wolf-eyes lights? How does that work? Thanks..>>


Um, unscrew the tailcap, change batteries, then reinstall the tailcap <g>. Makes for fast easy changes in the field. The Raider lamps are rated at 9.0 volts, so they will handle the two 150A cells or 123A cells. The only reason you would have to chage the lamp is if it bruns out or you want to use the Lumens Factory lamps (Bezel change required to do that).

 

[tomcat017]

ah, ok. Thanks Greysave, my mistake. I thought the Raider was runing on 168As. Oops. Thanks!

 

[VF1Jskull1]

<< So you can interchange the rechargeables and regular 123A cells on some of the wolf-eyes lights? How does that work? Thanks..>>


Um, unscrew the tailcap, change batteries, then reinstall the tailcap <g>. Makes for fast easy changes in the field. The Raider lamps are rated at 9.0 volts, so they will handle the two 150A cells or 123A cells. The only reason you would have to chage the lamp is if it bruns out or you want to use the Lumens Factory lamps (Bezel change required to do that).

If you have the 9D turbo head then all bets are off on the Lumens Factory lamps... I should have just ordered a standard bezel for my raider after cracking the lens on the turbo head... oh well, live and learn.

 

[jclarksnakes]

Tomcat,
....Most of the Wolf Eyes lights use either a 26 or 36 mm lamp assembly. The two different size lamp assemblies are available in a couple of different voltages and lumen ratings from Wolf-Eyes and many more different voltages and lumens ratings from Lumens Factory and others. You can swap the lamp assemblies around and then put in the right combination of primary or rechargeable cells that will provide the required voltage. I do not have any of the Wolf-Eyes or Pila rechageable cells and instead use less expensive rechargeable cells available from AW and others here on the forums. Some of the protected cells made prior to 6 months ago have protection circuitry which causes them to not provide enough power for some lamp assemblies. Most of the unprotected cells and newer protected ones work well with many different high output lamp assemblies. Look through the PTS website listings for Wolf-Eyes lights and lamp assemblies which are listed in the accessories to get some idea about which combinations will work.
...Today in the mail I got the Lumens Factory EO-9 380 lumen, 26 mm, 9 volt lamp assembly and the EO-13 700 lumen, 36mm, 13 volt lamp assembly. The EO-9 is already in one of my 9 volt Raiders powered with two LC 18490 rechargeable cells. This combination is obviously making less than 380 lumens but it is much brighter than the same light with the standard Wolf-Eyes supplied lamp assembly and 3 123 primary cells or the 2 18490 rechargeable cells. The EO-13 has gone into my M90-13T extended Rattlesnake, powered by 3 of the 18490 cells and so far is only making a little more output than the light did with the Wolf-Eyes 12 and 13 volt lamp assemblies. The cells have not been recharged in a long time and so they are now on the charger. I will report here later how this finally comes out.
JC

 

[tomcat017]

Thanks JC. I'm still a a newbie, so sorry if I ask some obvious questions.... But, if I understand correctly, you can put any combination of batteries that fits as long as the total battery voltage is less than or equal to the lamp voltage? Is that correct? Of course, it makes sense then that your lamp wont be as bright. And how can you tell which protected batteries may be putting out less than they should? Thanks again. Be sure to post after those batteries are charged

 

[jclarksnakes]

Tomcat,
...There are safety considerations to consider with both 123 primary and any rechargeable lithium ion cells. Read the battery and electronics section threads to learn about safe use of these cells. Swapping different lamp assemblies and rechargeable cells seems pretty simple after you have been doing it awhile. Along the way you may occasionbally blow a bulb. I have only done that a couple of times. have a look at the AW rechargeable cell sales thread and the tables on there. A 123 primary cell is approximately 33 mm long. The rechargeable cells come in many different sizes including 17500 and 18500 which are one and a half times the length of the 123 primary cell so two of them fit in a battery compartment designed for three primary cells. The 123 primary cells are rated at 3 volts but they actually sag quite a bit in usage so that 3 of them in series are putting out around 8.5 volts under load. The rechargeable cells put out around 4 volts with no load and around 3.7 volts under load so that two of them make the perfect rechargeable (free lumens) replacement for three of the 123 primary cells. There are also rechargeable cells the same size as a primary 123 cell available rated at 3.7 and 3.0 volts and two of the 3.7 volt ones make a same size rechargeable replacement for two primary 123 cells but put out much more voltage and so work well with 9 volt lamp assemblies. Two of the 3.0 rated 123 size rechageable cells work in some applications as a direct replacement for two of the 123 primary cell but in some applications they are a little too hot and will blow bulbs. Buy some Wolf-Eyes lights and different size rechargeable cells (either from PTS with the lights or from AW or others) and some Lumens Factory or other brand lamp asemblies and see what you think. If you wanted to start out slow you could buy one of the 9 volt W-E Raiders and a couple of the 18500 cells and a charger. After that you could buy and try different 9V lamp assemblies in that body or buy the smaller 6 volt Sniper and some rechargeable 123 size cells and swap a 9 volt lamp assembly into that body. The options are endless. BE SURE TO BE CAREFULL WORKING WITH THIS STUFF.
...After charging the cells for my extended 13 volt W-E Rattlesnake the Lumens Factory 13 volt 700 lumen bulb is still only a little brighter than the W-E 12 and 13 volt lamp assemblies in this light. IMO the EO-13 is nowhere near 700 lumens. I swapped the EO-9 lamp assembly into my Sniper with two rechargeable 123 cells and it is scary bright. Perhaps too much load for these small cells and so the 380 lumen lamp assembly is going back into the larger 9 volt Raider body. The EO-9 lamp assembly gets five stars in my book.
Jeff

 

[tomcat017]

Thanks Jeff--really appreciate all the info. So you brought up precisely the point of my question--two rechargeable cells (3.7V X 2 = 7.4V) works well in a 9V lamp? Which is also why two rechargeables (7.4V) can replace 3 primaries (8.4V)? I think I understand--it's OK if the battery voltage is a bit below the LA, correct? OK--thanks again! I'm eventually going to do exactly what you recommended--buy some more WE lights and try different lamps.

 

[Paul_in_Maryland]

tomcat017,
If you're just getting your feet wet, stick with 9V lamps. You can still play Wolf Eyes lego, but by using 9V lamps, you greatly reduce the odds of screwing up by accidentally using, say, two 123A cells (6V) when a 3.7V lamp is installed. You could still hot-flash a 9V lamp would be if you installed three rechargeable 123A cells (RCR123A), so for now, stick with 3x123A and 4x123A bodies (not 2x123A) and promise yourself that all your 123A cells will be lithium (3V), not lithium-ion (3.7-4.2V) until you get a better handle on the do's and don'ts of voltage matching.

 

[tomcat017]

Hey Paul,

It doesn't seem too bad actually. Am I correct in saying that the idea here is that you don't want to have the batteries exceed the voltage rating of the lamp? If so, then it's just some accounting, as far as what batteries are in series. 3V for 123As; and the various rechargeables (LIons) are generlly around 3.7-4.0V (of course I would check each one). That doens't seem too bad (I have a decent backround in electronics and circuitry, but I'll be sure to run everything that is potentially troublesome by you guys ).

What originally confused me was the use of say 7.4V in a 9V lamp. I didn't know that it was OK to undervoltage the lamp--starve it of voltage; but I suppose it will just make it dimmer? OK--thanks, as always!

 

[Paul_in_Maryland]

7.4V is the voltage under a heavy load. For a really thirsty lamp like the Surefire P91 (2.6A, or thereabouts), voltage under load can dip below 7V when using small cells like three 123As.

It's best to think of ratings like "9V" and "12V" as nominal ratings, like calling a stick of wood that's 1-5/8 inches wide a 2 by 4. These lamps are not designed to be fed a full 9V or 12V...or even 8V and 11.5V.