xr-r2 question
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^Gurthang
Flashlight Enthusiast
I think the absolute MAX rating is 1.4A, most info I've seen says that 1.0 - 1.2 is about tops before all you're doing is generating heat. So a good 1.0 A rated driver works well.
Walterk
Enlightened
Depends on the quality and efficiency of heatsinking.
For amps, use the search function for the 'white led test' thread.
It can -at least- handle 2 amps. But not in any ordinary flashlight.
For amps, use the search function for the 'white led test' thread.
It can -at least- handle 2 amps. But not in any ordinary flashlight.
As Walterk said it depends on the heatsinking. You can "reliably" run it(R2 flux) at 2-2.3 if you have some extremely good heatsinking. Note that this means an mcpcb is a no go. One other aspect you have to consider is whether the XR-E you are trying to push to extreme levels has the EZ900 or EZ1000 die in it. The EZ900 cannot handle as much current. If your LED's die looks like it is surrounded by a slightly red area then you have the EZ900. Also you cannot drive a lower flux bin as hard as you can a higher flux bin.
My 2 cents on the issue is this. They are rated at 1A, but I have used them effectively at 1.4A. There is still a noticeable difference in brightness going from 1A to 1.4, and if your sinking is good you still have a usable light. Going beyond that efficiency drops and you are taking a chance of a random 
every time you turn the light on IMHO (ie it may not be dependable). However this being said I have driven these emitters far beyond 1.4 for short periods of time.
every time you turn the light on IMHO (ie it may not be dependable). However this being said I have driven these emitters far beyond 1.4 for short periods of time.
As long as you heatsink well even 2A will notMy 2 cents on the issue is this. They are rated at 1A, but I have used them effectively at 1.4A. There is still a noticeable difference in brightness going from 1A to 1.4, and if your sinking is good you still have a usable light. Going beyond that efficiency drops and you are taking a chance of a random
an XR-E ever. It will however reduce the lifetime but it is not a catastrophic event. It is a gradual reduction in output. I have even run the XR-E at around 3A without damaging the LED. There is no benefit to running it at these levels but I am just saying it won't blow that easy.
bigchelis
Flashlight Enthusiast
The XR-E R2 can handle the 2A of current with no issues at all. Of course you need heatsinking, heatsinking, and then some heatsinking.
Mine is pulling 2A via DD at the tail off an AW 17670 cell. It does 390 OTF with 14.5k lux via stock L1 optic. Of course Milky did it and focused on you guessed it; heatsinking!!!!
Mine is pulling 2A via DD at the tail off an AW 17670 cell. It does 390 OTF with 14.5k lux via stock L1 optic. Of course Milky did it and focused on you guessed it; heatsinking!!!!
bigchelis
Flashlight Enthusiast
Where do I purchase high bin good quality XR-E R2's?
I am having heatsinks built, but need the emitters
I would really love one in a 2D Mag with copper heatsink (a ton of it) and run it direct drive off 3 NiMH C cells:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs
I am having heatsinks built, but need the emitters
I would really love one in a 2D Mag with copper heatsink (a ton of it) and run it direct drive off 3 NiMH C cells:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs
Where do I purchase high bin good quality XR-E R2's?
I am having heatsinks built, but need the emitters
I would really love one in a 2D Mag with copper heatsink (a ton of it) and run it direct drive off 3 NiMH C cells:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs
Cutter electronics is a good place IMO because they have a wide selection of color bins, ones I have never seen anywhere else like WH. Sadly the shipping cost and the little "handling" charge make it hard to justify any orders less than 60$. CPF members do get a discount.
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=181841
kengps
Flashlight Enthusiast
I don't have time to look it up....But IIRC I seen a "milkey spit" test BigC did. After 30 seconds the 2A light was only about 4-5% more output than the 1.4A light. I run 1.4A on my XR-E R2's with great results. The drivers are widely available too for about $32 for a block of 20 boards. I am currently running the WH bin EZ900 die R2's also at 1.4A with good success. I only thermal epoxy the board to an aluminum heatsink.
Packhorse
Flashlight Enthusiast
I too have had great results with 1400ma current. I dont think I would push it much more due to efficiency issues.
kengps
Flashlight Enthusiast
1.4 does seem to be the sweet spot. Little to be gained at higher current, with great losses of efficiency.
bigchelis
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yup, I just tested an XR-E R2 P60 drop-in by Nailbender with 8 degree optic. It does 1.3A at the LED and pulls 290 OTF, but down to 240/250 after a couple minutes. I bet with a big Mag D size heatsink the 290 would stay put alot better. Hell with the 1.4A driver it makes more sense.
Did you get your WH bin EZ900's at Cuttler?
kengps
Flashlight Enthusiast
yep, cutter. Saabluster tried to order some a few days ago with no luck. I think that's what he told me. My brains going fast downhill now. I ordered 6, and 3 were bad. They had torn silicone inside. Saabluster wanted them anyway for testing so I came out OK on them.
It was several months ago when I tried to procure some. They said they didn't have any ez900 in R2 and that the ez900 could not handle the high currents as well so I gave up.
Only reason I am asking is I am trying to compile some parts for a custom bulilt thrower.
Now I know I will never get the results of something like the DEFT, but I want to see what I can come up with.
Saabluster I have great respect for the deft, is there any way you could give me a list of the parts you have been using in your builds? Like what current you are running on your xr-e, and what driver board works well?
Also What are the specs on your lens?
If you cannot that is fine, just curiouse.
Now I know I will never get the results of something like the DEFT, but I want to see what I can come up with.
Saabluster I have great respect for the deft, is there any way you could give me a list of the parts you have been using in your builds? Like what current you are running on your xr-e, and what driver board works well?
Also What are the specs on your lens?
If you cannot that is fine, just curiouse.
kengps
Flashlight Enthusiast
Did you destroy the Ez900's yet? Curious what they can take. I have some pics to send you comparing the EZ900 vs EZ1000. Waiting for darkness, but the EZ900 a bit brighter.
Walterk
Enlightened
It is useful to do some reading about f-number and the viewingangle of Led's.
The f number determines two things:
How much light is gathered from the Led (Flux, for Lumens, not throw ),
and how wide the beam will be ( in combination with the die-size).
The Deft is based on a HID-lens, most HID-headlight lenses have f 0.7.
The mother of CPF's aspherics used a f 0.55 lens.
For instance I have a f 0.43 lens but find my f 0.6 much nicer.
Very small f-# seems to give more distortion and more unwanted spill.
Relative thickness represents lower f number.
Larger diameter gives more throw.
For most people it depends if it will fit the host, and the costs, but I like engineering the other way round.
The DEFT uses a roughly 75mm main lens. The driver depends on what your battery source is and what you want to run the LED at. The current has ranged anywhere from 1.4-2A depending on the model. There are many drivers that work well but you will have to figure out what works for your project. The latest DEFTs use the 7135 chips. You can "easily" reproduce DEFT performance if you find a good quality lens and run an XR-E hard with good heatsinking.
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